All Well in the Southern Hemisphere

January 14, 2018

Letâ€™s get caught up with the comings and goings for IMG teams in the Southern Hemisphere. Report from Emily and Romulo in Ecuador was — close but no cigar. Great morning for climbing but just couldnâ€™t find a way around, over or through the schrund right below the summit of Antisana. Team had a super day on the mountain but just couldnâ€™t quite ring the bell. Thatâ€™s always a bummer, but I think the amount of fun this team is having makes up for that last couple of hundred feet. Chimborazo is next on their agenda.

: Route finding high on Antisana (Emily Johnston)

: Experiencing the beauty of Antisana (Emily Johnston)

On the way to Vinson C1 (Emily Johnston)

In Antarctica, Greg, Luke and team established Camp 1 on Vinson without problems and are now working on their carry and move to high camp, C2. Thereâ€™ll be at least one rest day thrown in there somewhere. We try to stick one in after the carry to high camp and before moving up. Once we get to high camp, itâ€™s game day. As soon as the mountain provides a weather opening, the team will take their summit shot. Not quite yet but wonâ€™t be long.

Nickel, Rikki, Martin and team have made consistent progress down on Aconcagua. We always take a rest day after reaching base camp. A little time is needed to pack for the upper mountain, and 13,600â€™ is a great place to get a bit more acclimatization. Plus, Grajales Expeditions, our service provider for the last 30 plus years, is feeding them too much good food.

: Team ready to head up the Relinchos River on Aconcagua (Nickel Wood)

: Final 2 hours to base camp on Aconcagua (Nickel Wood)

Regardless, their first carry with heavier packs is today, as they head towards C1 at just over 16,000â€™. Always a big test to see how theyâ€™re doing.

One step and one day at a time.

Phil Ershler

Ouray In Style!

January 12, 2018

: Good Form! (Eric Remza)

: Just a Beaut of a Day (Eric Remza)

: Eric and Don wrapping up Four days in Ouray (Eric Remza)

IMG Lead Guide Eric Remza has been busy in the Ouray Ice Park where conditions have been absolutely perfect. Eric reported good ice forming up and a couple of dustings of snow the last few days. Good temps and great ice make for a heck of an experience. Apparently good enough for Don, Eric’s climber, to send his first WI5 route in good style! Congratulations Don!

We’ll be guiding in Ouray as long as the ice lasts. If you’re looking to improve your technical skills, or just get out and have the most fun day of your life, book your trip!

Robert Jantzen

Ecuador Team Heads to Antisana

January 12, 2018

Antisana (Phil Ershler)

Emily texted this morning early, saying the team was packed up and heading to camp on Antisana.Â She checked in again once there saying the weather was clear but a tad breezy.Â Clouded over a bit in the afternoon with light rain.Â Thatâ€™s more the exception than the rule in Ecuador.Â Letâ€™s see what tonight brings.

Antisana is a beautiful peak.Â Maybe even the prettiest of the Ecuador volcanoes.Â The tricky part from a climbing standpoint is a large ‘schrund which pretty much encircles the mountain just short of the summit.Â It can be tough to find a way over/around/through that thing.Â Fingers crossed, as always, for the team.

Phil Ershler

Aconcagua Team Settles into Basecamp

January 12, 2018

Above the Relinchos River with Aconcagua and Ameghino in the Distance (Peter Bilodeau)

Quick call via sat phone just came in from our team on Aconcagua.Â Everyoneâ€™s at base camp, tents are up. Everyoneâ€™s doing well and Grajales Expeditions (our service provider) is doing all the cooking.Â Nice.Â Rest day tomorrow before the first carry to C1.Â Still a little precip in the forecast through Sunday but that should work out just fine.

Phil Ershler

Moving Forward for Our Aconcagua and Ecuador Teams

January 11th, 2018

: The End of a Long Climbing Day (Emily Johnston)

: Casa Piedra (Peter Bilodeau)

Fun, fairly straightforward days for our groups in Ecuador and on Aconcagua.Â After a night at the thermal baths of Papallacta, the Ecuador team did a little prepping and a little shopping and headed towards Guaytara for the night.Â Itâ€™s close to Antisana and puts the team in position to head to camp on Antisana tomorrow.

In Argentina, the Aconcagua team put in a good Day 2, as they continued their approach and are now settled in at Casa Piedra for the night.Â A little precip but not bad.Â Base camp is the objective for tomorrow, at about 13,600 ft.

Phil Ershler

Weather Has Been Good to the Vinson Team

January 11th, 2018

Twin Otter at Union Glacier (Greg Vernovage)

Letâ€™s get caught up with the team on Vinson.Â Everyone understands that flying to the interior of Antarctica can be problematic, at best.Â 2000 miles (more or less), land on hard ice in an IL 76, then fly another hour in a ski-equipped Twin Otter to Vinson base camp.Â What could possibly go wrong?Â In the case of our current team —— NOTHING.Â Took off exactly on schedule from Punta Arenas, Chile and 6 HOURS LATER were putting up their tents at Vinson base camp.Â No way we can do better than that!

Team carried to C1, near 10,000 ft yesterday.Â Weather is still good, so they made their move up to C1 today.Â Forecast remains favorable.Â Doesnâ€™t get much better, currently, than this.

Phil Ershler

Aconcagua Team 3 is on the Move

January 10, 2018

The Team is Ready To Walk! (Nickel Wood)

Word from Nickel, Rikki, Martin and their team is that day one of their approach is now complete.Â Thereâ€™s â€˜moistureâ€™ in the area but the group got day one in without getting wet.Â That said, theyâ€™re expecting some rain tonight and have all the tents up at Pampas Lenas.Â Looks like the possibility of precip remains in the area until Sunday.Â Perfect.Â Thatâ€™s the day theyâ€™ll make their carry to C1.

Phil Ershler

Train for Your Next Expedition with IMG’s Denali Seminar

January 10, 2018

: Hauling Sleds in Good Weather

: Checking Camp after a Typical Nights Snowfall

: Winter Sunrise over Little Tahoma

: Learning Snow Anchor Basics in the Field

Have your sights set on a big trip this year?Â Denali, Everest, Elbrus, and Rainier seasons are right around the corner.Â At IMG, we offer the best possible training to set you up for success – The Denali Prep Seminar.

Denali Prep Seminar Details and Itinerary

Each year, we take climbers onto Rainier for 6 days in the middle of winter and let the mountain do its job. This program exposes climbers to the weather and work that it takes to make it on a big climb.Â As weather systems roll through and the team work their way higher on the mountain, the terrain on Rainier provides the best training to learn the critical skills that turn big dreams into realities. We focus on skills such as bombproof camp set up and maintenance, navigation training, sled hauling, anchor building, crevasse rescue training, fixed line work, avalanche science/rescue, and a whole lot more. If your sights are on Denali, or any other big peak, this is a “must have” experience.

Denali not in your plans this year? No worries! This program is an excellent fit for anyone interested in learning more about winter mountaineering and all the tools that go into it.Â Build your skill set with the best guides in the world, then go for your dream mountain!

Available 2018 Dates:

February 10-16

February 24 – March 2

~~March 10-16~~ (Full)

March 24-30

April 7-13

April 21-27

Robert Jantzen

Strategic Retreat for Ecuador Team

January 10th, 2018

Cayambe (Phil Ershler)

The biggest problem of late in Ecuador is â€˜lackâ€™ of snow.Â This morning, it was the opposite for Emily, Romulo and team.Â Too much snow.Â Snowed and blew all night, not the best of combinations.Â The Team headed up regardless and fought their way up to just over 18000 ft.Â Significant hard slab over fluff and getting more loaded by the minute. Â Classic slab conditions.Â Sliding surface, weak (fluffy) layer and then a slab perched on top gets scary fast.Â Add being on slopes (or under slopes) in the 25-45 degree range and THEN be there during or right after a storm â€“ really bad combination.Â Discretion, as they say, is the better part of valor.

A strategic retreat was the order of the day.Â Good attempt and smart decision to back off before it was too late.Â The Team is packing up at the hut and getting ready to head to the hot springs in Papallacta.Â Theyâ€™ll lick their wounds, regroup and get prepped for an attempt on Antisana over the next couple of days.

Phil Ershler

Getting Ready to Summit Cayambe

January 9th, 2018

Route Finding on Cayambe (Phil Ershler)

Quick update from Ecuador —— the team spent last night and all of today at the Cayambe hut.Â More acclimatization was the order of the day, along with some technique review.Â Tonightâ€™s a short one at the hut because the team will be getting up around midnight to take a shot at the summit.Â 19000 ft is always a challenge so letâ€™s keep our fingers crossed for good weather.Â Tough enough when the weatherâ€™s good.

Phil Ershler