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Final Aconcagua Team 5 Arrives in Mendoza

February 6th, 2018

Dinner in Mendoza (Eric Remza)

Dinner in Mendoza (Eric Remza)

 

Time to introduce our fifth and final Aconcagua expedition team for the season.  Eric Remza, IMG Senior Guide, is at the helm.  He is joined from the US by Anna Hicks, and from Argentina, Leandro Villegas.  The entire team arrived in Mendoza on Sunday with minimal issues.  Only one or two delayed bags.

Final food shopping is complete, permits are in hand and the team is heading today to Penitentes.  Gear gets divided there into ‘mules loads’ and the team begins their three day approach to base camp on Wednesday.  Wish them luck.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team 4 Settled in at Camp 1

February 5, 2018

Route Above Camp 1 (Peter Bilodeau)

Route Above Camp 1 (Peter Bilodeau)

 

Just a quick update from Luke and team on Aconcagua.  A little precip the last few days but nothing bad.  Certainly not enough to prevent them from making their carry to C1 and making the move today to C1, which is where they are spending the night.  Forecasts call for the precip to pretty much end tomorrow morning and stay dry for the next few days.  They’ll take advantage of that as they can but plan, currently, on making a carry to C2 tomorrow.

All is well on Aconcagua.

Phil Ershler

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Patagonia Trekkers Arrive In Puerto Natales

February 5, 2018

The team sampling the goods at Baguales Cerveceria. (Dustin Balderach)

IMG Senior Guide Dustin Balderach checked in this afternoon reporting that he and his entire team all arrived in Puerto Natales on time, and with their luggage. Nice.  After checking into their hotel they ventured out for a quick bite to eat at the local watering hole/brewpub, Baguales.  After lunch, Dustin and the team knocked out their gear checks. Dinner at La Guanaca will round out a pretty solid start for this crew.

Tomorrow is a free day to explore the walkable, funky and friendly little town that is Puerto Natales.

Tye Chapman

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Aconcagua Team 4 Happy at Base Camp

February 2, 2018

Last Stretch into Basecamp (Nickel Wood)

Last Stretch into Base Camp (Nickel Wood)

 

Two more days of hiking are under their belts which means the team has reached base camp, Plaza Argentina (13,600’).  Weather has been nice and quite warm on the mountain.  Luke, Jay, Martin and team say good-bye to the mules here and they become ‘the mules’ above base camp.  Three progressively higher camps will now be established.  One step at a time will get the job done.

Tomorrow’s a rest day at base camp.  Team also needs a little time to get gear organized for the mountain above.  Nothing gets carried up that the team isn’t pretty sure won’t be needed.  That’s OK as this is what they’ve been planning for, training for.

So far, so good on Aconcagua.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team 4 Departs Civilization

January 31, 2018

 

As Clean as They're Going to Look (Luke Reilly)

As Clean as They’re Going to Look (Luke Reilly)

 

Luke, Jay, Martin and team started walking today.  Pampas Lenas by this evening.  The 3 day approach to base is pretty much perfect from an acclimatization standpoint.  Mules carry all the gear so each member has basically a day pack to carry at this stage of the trip.  Packs get heavier above base camp.  Terrain is not super steep and the elevation gain is gradual.  Just what’s needed to work out the kinks and starting making more red blood cells.

Phil Ershler

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Aconcagua Team 4 Pulls out of Mendoza

January 30, 2018

Dinner in Mendoza (Luke Reilly)

Dinner in Mendoza (Luke Reilly)

 

The team left Mendoza this morning, heading to Penitentes.  It’s a 3-4 hr drive to where the trail begins.  They’ll make final gear decisions and sort loads for the mules.  Then it’s one more sit down dinner and a final night (for a while) in a bed.  The walking starts tomorrow morning.

Phil Ershler

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2018 Everest Update

January 29, 2018

Fixed line Training in Phortse (Phunuru Sherpa)
Practicing their V-threads. We use V-threads on the Lhotse Face to anchor the fixed line to the mountain. (Phunuru Sherpa)
Phunuru Sherpa with some recent graduates (Phunuru Sherpa)
Phunuru looking at gear from training (Phunuru Sherpa)

We heard from IMG Senior Guide Phunuru Sherpa this morning.  Phunuru and our Sherpa Team just finished up their annual training in Phortse at the Khumbu Climbing School.  He reports that “like all other years, the training this year went smooth!”  Good to hear.  Looking at the photos of the training, it looks like the Sherpa enjoyed beautiful weather and some fantastic ice!  All of our IMG Sherpa climbers have attended this training over the years.  We are proud to say that we are employing more than 70 of them for Mount Everest and Lhotse.  Nice job you guys!

Phunuru has also received word from up the valley, on Mount Everest.  The Winter Expedition that is currently climbing has reported the Icefall in great condition.  The route through the Icefall is very direct with only 10 ladders right now and is slightly to the right of center.  This is also good to hear because we like keeping the route away from the West Shoulder of Mount Everest.

Phunuru will be working with our Spring teams on Mount Everest and Lhotse before heading over to Tanzania this summer for a few trips up Kilimanjaro.

All is well in the Khumbu Valley!

Greg Vernovage

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Mexico and Aconcagua Trips On Site and Off to a Great Start!

January 29th, 2018

Mexico Team (Charlotte Austin)
Mexico Team (Charlotte Austin)
Always Packing (Nickel Wood)
Always Packing (Nickel Wood)

 

We’ve had a week to catch our breath and now it’s time to get back to talking about how IMG trips are going in the Southern Hemisphere and Mexico.

This will be our final Mexico trip for the season.  IMG Senior Guide, Charlotte Austin, is at the helm of this final trip and they’re already off and running.  Charlotte and everyone arrived without issue AND with all their luggage.  We love saying that.  That was on Saturday.  They left yesterday for the town of Amecameca and an acclimatization hike in the area of Cortez Pass, near the first objective —- Ixtacciuatl.  The acclimatization process continues today with a carry up to high camp.  Good to get some food/fuel/water up to there to lighten the load when they move up tomorrow.  Plus, it’s the perfect way to spend another acclimatization day.  Team will spend tonight at the Altzimoni Hut, right near the pass.  Trying to get in as much acclimatization time as possible.  Team is doing well and, as we often say – so far, so good.

Very similar report from Team 4 on Aconcagua.  IMG guides Luke Reilly, Jay Lyons and Leandro Villegas are together with their team in Mendoza.  Again, NO lost luggage issues – hooray!  The guides cranked yesterday and finished food shopping/packing, today’s project is to do final individual gear checks and secure their permits for climbing Aconcagua.  They head out tomorrow for Penitentes where they’ll be making up mule loads and having one last hotel night before beginning their 3 day approach to base camp.

Phil Ershler

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Ouray Veterans Participate in Another Banner Trip Climbing Ice

January 29th, 2018

Ouray Ice in Great Shape for our Ouray Veteran's Seminar (Eric Remza)
Ouray Ice in Great Shape for our Ouray Veteran’s Seminar (Eric Remza)
Getting Technical on Some Fun-In-The-Sun Dry Tooling (Eric Remza)
Getting Technical on Some Fun-In-The-Sun Dry Tooling (Eric Remza)

 

IMG Lead guide Eric Remza shared a couple of pictures from the Ice Park of another awesome Veteran’s Program held last week.

Every ice season, our guides look forward to this program, and as usual a good time was had by all. We had an all-star group of guides on hand including lead guides Justin Merle, Sondra Ripperger, Andy Polloczek, Eric Remza and Jonathan Schrock. You can’t find a better set of guides anywhere! One of the great parts of running this program each year are the climbers that return year after year to join in on the fun. A number of the participants have returned to this program over 10 years in a row! IMG also welcomed a number of fresh faces this year; thanks for the stoke!

The 2018 ice season continues to be in full swing with programs in Ouray, Colorado and North Conway, New Hampshire running at full tilt. Inspired to swing some tools? Book a program and join in on the fun!

Robert Jantzen

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Full Circle: Elizabeth Hawley Passes

January 26th, 2018

Liz Hawley and Her Trusty VW (Eric Simonson)

Liz Hawley and Her Trusty VW (Eric Simonson)

I met Liz in 1979 on my first Himalayan Expedition and she wanted to know everything about what happened.  Since then, I met her dozens and dozens of times in Kathmandu, as I traveled back and forth to Nepal over the years with our climbing teams.  Ever the journalist, Liz was all business in terms of recording expedition details.  When that was done, though, we appreciated that she would open up a bit and allow some talk of the other mountaineering issues of the day.  I was always relieved to know that somebody was paying attention to what climbers were doing, and claiming to be doing.  Facts matter, and Liz was all about the facts.  Nowadays when everyone is their own reporter and they can tell any story they want on the internet, it’s good to know that the legacy of truthful reporting that Liz put in place continues.  Best wishes to Billi Bierling, Richard Salisbury, Jeevan Shrestha, and Rodolphe Popier for all the great work they have done bringing Liz’s Himalayan Database to the world.   From the old days of paper forms and tables completed in pencil, the Himalayan Database now accessible online.  It was her life’s work and she lived to see it come full circle. We’ll miss her.

Eric Simonson

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