October 7, 2018

Today we traveled the 240km from Shigatse to Shegar, along the Friendship Highway that goes all the way to the Nepal border. Before leaving Shigatse, though, we took a tour of the Tashilumpo Monastary, home of the Panchen Lama, who is sometimes referred to as number two to the Dalai Lama. Tashilumpo was actually the home of the first four Dalai Lamas, until the fifth one moved the seat of government to Lhasa and started building the Potala Palace in 1645. Tashilumpo is one of the nicest of the big Tibetan monasteries, and the blue sky and early morning sun made everything come alive visually for us.

Inside the Tashilumpo Montasary in Shigatse (Eric Simonson)

We then headed west, eventually climbing over the Tsuo La pass (4500m) before dropping down into the town of Lhatse, where we stopped for lunch. After that, we were climbing back up again to the summit of the Gyatso La pass (5267m or 17,275 ft) before we dropped again down to the Shegar valley at about 4000m. Along the way we had our first views of Mt. Everest which always sends a shiver up my spine.

Shegar is another of the very old Tibetan towns that has figured prominently in the Tibetan wars with Nepal. The Tibetans under the rule of the Quig Dynasty (the last of the Chinese imperial dynasties) built a series of forts (known as Dzongs) in the various towns near to Nepal. Gyantse and Shigatse also have Dzongs, but the one in Shegar is one of the coolest. It was built up on top of a mountain, with a fortified wall climbing to the summit. Despite the fortifications, it was not enough to stop the Nepalese Gurkha armies, which attacked Tibet and fought several campaigns 1788-92, pushing as far as Shigatse. A second war between Tibet and Nepal followed in 1855-56 where again the Dzongs figured prominently in the battles. Suffice to say, the border lands between Nepal and Tibet have not been a peaceful place!

This afternoon we hiked up above the old town of Shegar to get a nice view and see the famous Shegar Dzong up close. Wow, Shegar sure has changed from the sleepy little village I remembered to the bustling Chinese city it is now.

Shegar viewed from above the town (Eric Simonson)

Tomorrow we head over the famous Pang La Pass (with its world class view of the Himalaya) before dropping down and turning east to Kharta. We are getting close now to the beginning of our trek!

Eric Simonson

October 6, 2018

When you go trekking or climbing in the Himalayas, you are traveling in areas where people have roamed for centuries. Central Tibet is no exception, and the southern route from Lhasa to Shigatse which we followed yesterday has huge historical significance. Back in the 19th and early 20th centuries, the British in India were very wary of the expansion of the Russian empire into Central Asia, including Tibet. Those two counties played what became known as the “Great Game” for many years, as each attempted to thwart the other’s plans.

For the British, reaching Lhasa was important, and they sent Francis Younghusband with an army to open the route in 1904. He traveled north from Sikkim to Gyantse, and then east towards Lhasa. The Tibetans tried to stop him at the Karo La, the 5010m high pass along the way. The battle (or massacre) that ensued was a sad chapter in Tibetan history. Younghusband went on to become one of the champions of the early British Everest expeditions and head of the Royal Geographic Society. If you are interested in this type of stuff, you have some great reading to look forward to.

Yesterday we followed the same route, in the opposite direction. First we climbed up over the Khamba La pass (4794m), then followed the shore of the immense Yamdrok Lake, then crossed Karo La (5010m) before dropping down into the Gyantse valley where the locals were hard at work harvesting barley. Along the way we had great views of the Nogin Kangtsang range with its numerous 6-7000 meter peaks. From there we continued west to Shigatse, the second largest city in Tibet. Today we will visit the Tashilumpo Monastary before continuing to Shegar, another famous old town.

Eric Simonson

October 5, 2018

It’s no secret that Mt Everest has been a big part of my life, starting with the slide show at PLU in Tacoma, WA that my dad took me to back in 1965.  We saw the images and heard the stories from the 1963 American Everest Expedition.   As 10 year old boy I was super excited to meet expedition leader Jim Whittaker and get his autograph and that of Lute Jerstad, Tacoma’s first Everest summiteer (and PLU grad).  After that I started reading all the Everest books, and I was hooked!  Now, 53 years later, I am heading back for my 14^th trip to the mountain.  This time is different though, as we are going to the East (or Kangshung) Face.  This is the much less visited “backside” of Everest, and a place I’ve always wanted to go.

It was great to finally return to Lhasa.  I first came here in 1982 as one of the very first western climbers to the North side and since then I’ve been back a few times, but not since 2003.  Wow, the place has really changed!  Much of Lhasa now looks like any other big modern Chinese city, but fortunately the old town around the Barkhor central square remains intact.  Yesterday Anthony and I roamed this area and visited the Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple, two of the most famous and significant sites.  Tomorrow we are off to Shigatse, then on to Shegar and then to Kharta where we meet Lobsang and our Nepal Sherpa team for the 10 day trek to the Kangshung Face Base Camp.  There is a lot of history in that area including expeditions by the British in 1921, the Americans in 1981 and 83, and the 1988 US/Canada/UK team.  I’ve read so much about it and now its time to see it myself!

We’ll probably have internet for another couple days, but after that we have low expectations.  Fine with me, I can’t wait to turn off my phone and computer, put on a backpack, and start hiking!

Eric Simonson

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