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Ecuador Update

November 12, 2018

Hoteria La Cienega (Luke Reilly)
Feeding llamas at Hotel San Augustin (Luke Reilly)
Dinner at Hacienda San Cuco (Luke Reilly)

 

Time has come to leave Hacienda La Cienega. Yesterday was a fun day with everyone. We all visited another Hacienda at the base of Cotopaxi called San Augustine de Callo. This hacienda is one of the few archaeological sites with Incan ruins in Ecuador and today is famous for their potato soup.  The group sampled the soup and also took the time to feed the llamas some carrots. Everybody got a meal and was happy when it was time to leave.

A trip to Ecuador isn’t complete without a visit to the famed pilot and photographer, Jorge Anhalzar. Jorge showed us around his home and some of the books that he has published. A few of us picked up a souvenir book to take home and show off to our friends and family.

A couple of the team members are taking off tonight to head home, while the rest of us are sticking around to give Chimborazo a shot. Instead of heading back to the busy life of Quito, we all spent the evening at local guide Romulo Cardenas’ guesthouse about 30 minutes outside of the big city. Romulo’s wife, Patricia, never fails to provide us with a superb meal (including the local favorite of guinea pig). Lots of laughs were shared at dinner last night and we were joined by two other IMG guides, Rikki Dunn and Jay Lyons. You may know these two from Rainier or from other expeditions around the globe. The two are spending a month in Ecuador knocking off some of the classic climbs here. They have already successfully climbed Illiniza Sur and Cotopaxi, way to go guys.

We will be loading the truck up first thing tomorrow morning and heading south to attempt a climb of a mountain whose summit is the farthest point from the center of the earth, and also closest to the sun, Chimborazo. Recent trip reports show that there are reasonable snow conditions on Chimborazo, let’s hope those reports are correct. We’re all buzzing with excitement at the chance of going 3/3 on this expedition.

Luke Reilly

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That’s A Wrap For Ama Dablam

November 12, 2018

Climbers on Ama Dablam above Camp 1 (Nathan Berry)
Phunuru Sherpa with Ama Dablam in the Background (Nathan Berry)

 

Congratulations once again to our 2018 Ama Dablam Team! IMG Guide, Nathan Berry, along with our climbing team returned to KTM and are on their way home now. IMG Guides Phunuru Sherpa and Fura Gyalzen (Sherpa Fura) have packed up camp and will be taking the gear to our storage before heading back home to Phortse.

Sherpa Fura at Camp 1 on Ama Dablam (Nathan Berry)
Camp 3 on Ama Dablam (Nathan Berry)

 

This has been an incredible expedition and we want to thank everyone for your support throughout the season. We are proud of our team. Ready to sign up for Ama Dablam in 2019?

Greg Vernovage

Everest@MountainGuides.com

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Ecuador Team Summits Cotopaxi

November 10, 2018

Was nice to hear about the team’s success on Cayambe a couple of days ago but even nicer to hear of their success Saturday morning on Cotopaxi. Well done, team!! Weather not quite as good for the ascent of Cotopaxi but… good enough. Everyone’s safe, off the mountain and at the Hotel Cienega.

Smiles on the summit (Luke Reilly)
Jumping for joy (Luke Reilly)
Great route conditions (Luke Reilly)
To the hut (Luke Reilly)

Some last sightseeing still needs to be done and some other of our Ecuadorian friends need a visit. For those climbers doing the two peak itinerary, they’ll be home Tuesday telling war stories. For climbers staying to take a shot at Chimborzo, they get a bit of rest/recoup time and then they’ve got one more BIG challenge before getting home on Thurday.

They’re all on a roll. Here’s to their continued success.

Phil Ershler

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Ama Dablam Team Back at Base Camp

November 10, 2018

All is well and the mountain is clean of all of our gear and equipment. Our team is happy and tired at Base Camp. Phunuru also reported that we managed to pull all of our gear down from Camp 1 and Yak Camp.

Steep Climbing on Ama Dablam (Nathan Berry)
Descending Ama Dablam (Nathan Berry)
Ama Dablam from above Base Camp (Adam Clark)

 

Tomorrow, the team will plan to pack up their gear and start making plans to return to Kathmandu.

Congratulations to the IMG Ama Dablam Team!

Greg Vernovage

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Ama Dablam Summits!

November 9, 2018

Narrow climbing on Ama Dablam (Kevin Kayl)

Narrow climbing on Ama Dablam (Kevin Kayl)

Climbers entering the Grey Couloir (Austin Shannon)
Climbers entering the Grey Couloir (Austin Shannon)
Ridge climbing on Ama Dablam (Phunuru Sherpa)
Ridge climbing on Ama Dablam (Phunuru Sherpa)
2018 Ama Dablam Summits (Sherpa Fura)
2018 Ama Dablam Summits (Sherpa Fura)

We received great news from the summit of Ama Dablam last night!  The team got to the summit at 7:35am and were rewarded with a beautiful sunrise and great views from on top.

Congratulations to all of our climbers on Ama Dablam!

They have now descended to Camp 1 and will be at Base Camp for celebration tomorrow.

All is great on Ama Dablam!

Greg Vernovage

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Ecuador Team Sets Their Sights on Cotopaxi

November 9, 2018

Team dinner after a successful climb of Cayambe (Luke Reilly)

Team dinner after a successful climb of Cayambe (Luke Reilly)

Everybody had a great time celebrating a successful ascent of Cayambe with a hardy meal followed by some good sleep.  After soaking in the hot springs of Papallacta, we all made our way to Hacienda Porvenir at the base of Cotopaxi yesterday for even more R and R.  Porvenir recently built a sauna and jacuzzi and the team took full advantage of the new amenities to rejuvenate their muscles and prep for our next climb: Cotopaxi.

It’s been a few years since we’ve climbed Cotopaxi since its most recent eruption and it’s now time to get back to one of the most, if not the most, iconic volcanoes in the world.  Word has it that the route is in superb condition and the team is chomping at the bit to put their crampons back on.

We will drive up to the Jose Rivas Refugio this afternoon after lunch and get in position for our ascent tonight.  The weather is a little shakey this year in Ecuador, but we pulled off a climb of Cayambe and we’re crossing our fingers for clear skies tonight on Cotopaxi.

Stay tuned!

Luke Reilly

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Ama Dablam Team Ready for the Summit

November 8, 2018

View from Camp 3 on Ama Dablam (Kevin Kayl)

View from Camp 3 on Ama Dablam (Kevin Kayl)

Above Camp 2 on Ama Dablam (Kevin Kayl)
Above Camp 2 on Ama Dablam (Kevin Kayl)
Technical climbing on Ama Dablam (Phunuru Sherpa)
Technical climbing on Ama Dablam (Phunuru Sherpa)
Crossing the traverse on Ama Dablam (Phunuru Sherpa)
Crossing the traverse on Ama Dablam (Phunuru Sherpa)

 

IMG Guide Phunuru Sherpa checked in overnight to let us know the team is enjoying another great day of climbing on Ama Dablam. The team arrived to Camp 3 just after lunch.  Arriving at lunch time will give them plenty of time to rest, eat and drink before heading to the summit in the morning.  The team will leave Camp 3 at 4 am for the summit!

All is well on Ama Dablam!

Greg Vernovage

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Success on Cayambe for IMG’s Ecuador Team

November 7, 2018

Luke and a smiling rope team on the summit of Cayambe

Luke and a smiling rope team on the summit of Cayambe

 

Its always nice to get the satellite phone call saying all’s well, weather was great and, oh yeah, we reached the summit and are already back at high camp.  Pretty much Luke’s words exactly when he called this morning.  Almost no wind up high.  Route had to bank far to the left near the summit to get around the summit bergschrund.  Longer, but safer, is just fine.

Team should already be at the hot springs in the town of Papallacta.  Life’s tough – climb a 19,000’ glaciated peak in Ecuador in the morning, with almost no wind, and spend the afternoon/evening in the hot spring tubs, with a beer in hand and starring at the summit of Antisana.  And, of course, sharing a few war stories about the climb.

All’s just fine in Ecuador.

Phil Ershler

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Ama Dablam Team at Camp 2

November 7, 2018

Looking at the Yellow Tower on Ama Dablam (Austin Shannon)
Looking at the Yellow Tower on Ama Dablam (Austin Shannon)
2018 Ama Dablam Team climbing on a beautiful day (Sherpa Fura)
2018 Ama Dablam Team climbing on a beautiful day (Sherpa Fura)
Camp 2 on Ama Dablam (Sherpa Fura)
Camp 2 on Ama Dablam (Sherpa Fura)
Climbing on Ama Dablam (Nathan Berry)
Climbing on Ama Dablam (Nathan Berry)

 

We received news from the team on Ama Dablam overnight.  The team enjoyed an incredible day of climbing to Camp 2 (19,356’).  They were up early and reported no wind and clear skies.  The team arrived at Camp 2 just after 9:30 am which enables them to take in the incredible views and rest the entire day!  Tomorrow, the team will head to Camp 3 at about 21,000’.

Today’s climb to Camp 2 took the team through technical terrain and working through the Yellow Tower.  This climb is difficult and working efficiently through the technical terrain from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a great barometer for how the team is climbing.  This team is climbing exceptionally well.

All is well on Ama Dablam!

Greg Vernovage

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Game Day in Ecuador, Cayambe Awaits!

November 6th, 2018

A Beautiful Morning on Cayambe

A Beautiful Morning on Cayambe

It’s almost game day for the team in Ecuador.  The gang went to the high hut on Cayambe yesterday.  Weather was nice with some fresh snow on the mountain.  As the hut’s around 15,000 ft, the team benefited greatly from spending last night at that altitude and took today to do a bit of a ‘refresher’ and log a full day at that altitude.  Sleeping now and, weather permitting, head out about midnight Ecuador time for their summit attempt.  It’ll be a big day but they’ve done their homework.  Wish them luck.

Phil Ershler

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