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Updates from South America & Antarctica

January 16, 2019

Final steps to Vinson summit (Phil Ershler)

Time, again, to relay updates from our teams in South America and Antarctica.

Let’s start with Vinson Massif. I literally just spoke with Luke Reilly and team on the summit of Vinson. Not a puff of wind and all members doing well and standing on the summit. High camp tonight and Vinson base camp tomorrow. That’s everything we could hope for. Congratulations.

Jay Lyons and Romulo Cardenas called me earlier today from Chimborazo. Two out of three summits for the team isn’t bad. Wanted that third but it just wasn’t to be. Everyone’s safe and pleased with their efforts.

Nickel Wood and team called to say the carry went quite well today to Camp 2. Team performed well and made the carry in good time. One more night at Camp 1 and they expect to move into Camp 2 tomorrow. Good, steady progress on Aconcagua.

That’s all for now!

Phil Ershler

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Denali Prep Seminar & Rainier Climb – Sign up!

January 16, 2019

Winter Seminar (IMG Archives)

We still have availability on several of our upcoming Denali Prep Seminars! Join IMG for this unparalleled 6.5 day course and learn crevasse rescue techniques, how to build snow caves/shelters, glacier travel & route finding skills, avalanche hazard evaluation, and so much more – all on the pristine winter landscape of Mt. Rainier in expedition-style camping!

Available dates include: March 2-8 & April 27 – May 3! Contact us at: office@mountainguides.com for more info or to register!

Heather Garland

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Climb Ama Dablam with IMG in 2019!

January 15, 2019

Ama Dablam (Austin Shannon)

Ama Dablam means Mother’s Charm Box. “Ama” (mother) refers to the mountain’s long ridges stretching over the valleys below like protective arms. “Dablam” is for the distinct hanging glacier on the southwest face. which looks like the traditional deity pendants worn by Sherpa women.

We enjoyed another successful season on Ama Dablam last year and are looking forward to doing it again. Are you ready to test yourself on this great challenge of the Himalaya? If so, email everest@mountainguides.com!

Greg Vernovage

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Teams Down South – Update

January 15, 2019

Let’s get caught up on teams down South.

ECUADOR – Cayambe and Cotopaxi – done.  Two great summits. Four team members are now prepping and heading off to Chimborazo for a summit attempt.

Full team’s last supper together (Romulo Cardenas)

ACONCAGUA – all is well. Moving to C1 at 16K feet is the next order of business. Necessary to establish 3 camps to put the team in position to make their summit attempt.

Plaza Argentina (Nickel Wood)

VINSON – weather remains VERY good. Team has moved to high camp and is prepping/resting today for their summit attempt in the morning.

Phil Ershler

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Ecuador Team Summits Cotopaxi

January 12, 2019

Let’s catch up with the Ecuador and Aconcagua teams currently in the mountains. Big news today was that Jay, Romulo and their entire team had a great summit of Cotopaxi. Weather was excellent, snow conditions great and the team was strong. They made quick work of the thing.

Antisana from Cotopaxi (Romulo Cardenas)
Crevasse on Cotopaxi (Romulo Cardenas)
Crevasse on Cotopaxi (Romulo Cardenas)
About to top out (Romulo Cardenas)

Team has been down at Hacienda La Cienega for a few hours already and is planning on having dinner this evening at Hacienda San Augustin. Spectacular spot. IMG was probably their first foreign climbing group who were customers once they opened the hacienda to tourists. Sightseeing and visiting some old friends on tap for tomorrow with dinner at Romulo’s place, all local dishes prepared by his wife, Patricia.

Rest day on Aconcagua. Prepping loads for their carries to the next camps and going through the mandatory health checks with the Park. Nice to take a day off.

Plaza Argentina, base camp Aconcagua (Nickel Wood)

Tomorrow will mark their first carry to C1. All good with the team.

Phil Ershler

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Private Winter Seminar – NH

January 11, 2019

Winter Skills Training – NH (Sam Benderhoff)

We just received this email from Ray K (pictured above) after his three day private winter seminar in NH with IMG Guide Sam Benderhoff:

George, 

Sam and I had 3 real good days of work this week! He is an outstanding guide and an asset to your organization! We focused on my footwork, rope drills; ascending & rappelling. Did some ice climbing and hoofed it part way up Mt Washington in pretty deep snow. 

Ray K

Rope Work (Sam Benderhoff)
Private Winter Mountaineering Seminar in NH (Sam Benderhoff)

Nice job, Ray!

George Dunn

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IMG Guide Training in Ouray

January 11, 2019

Guide Training Ouray, CO (Justin Merle)

This past week, I and several IMG guides joined Chief Guide Justin Merle & Mark Ripperger in Ouray, Colorado to hone our ice guiding skills.

We spent Day 1 in the Ouray Ice Park building safe and efficient anchor systems, selecting appropriate instructional terrain, and refining teaching techniques and movement skills in a vertical ice environment. Of course, there was time to improve our personal climbing skills as well! The weather was pleasant, and the ice sticky!

IMG Guide Training on the mixed route ‘Slippery When Wet’ – Ouray Ice Park (Justin Merle)

The second day featured multi-pitch ice guiding techniques in the backcountry. This begins before we even head out the door; gathering weather and avalanche information we use for effective risk management throughout the day. We practiced pacing, anchors, transitions, and travel strategies designed to mitigate risk while maximizing comfort, climbing and fun!

I don’t recall all of the climbs we did, but I do recall Slippery When Wet, the first pitch of Skylight, Unknown Drytool Route, and Slip Sliding Away on day 2 at Camp Bird Mine road.

Come on out and join us in Ouray or New England – there’s plenty of ice for everyone!

IMG Guide Nicole Sims

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Down South!

January 11, 2019

Here’s a quick update for IMG teams down South, farther South, and really far South.

Early morning on Cayambe (Romulo Cardenas)

Jay, Romulo and their successful Ecuador team are now getting prepped for an attempt on Cotopaxi. The mountain was ‘off limits’ for a while because of eruptive activity but things have settled down and are back to normal. The team has been using Hacienda Porvenir as base for the climb. It’s a beautiful spot right at the base of the mountain. Acclimatization and a bit more training today with a summit attempt this weekend. Everyone’s doing well.

Back at the hut (Romulo Cardenas)

Nickel, Martin and their crew should reach Plaza Argentina, base camp, on the Polish Side of Aconcagua today. Simply means that will be the end of the approach and the start of the climb. Mules have been carrying all group gear to this point. Above base, standard expedition style climbing, with making a carry and the next day a move to successively higher camps. Three camps above base on the Polish side. A ‘for sure’ rest day tomorrow at base and then the next phase of the trip begins. Our Argentine outfitters will be taking good care of the team at base, preparing all their meals and giving them a nice dining tent to eat/relax. They just can’t get too comfortable.

And down in the 79 degrees S range, Luke and his team are prepping to move to Camp 1 tomorrow. Vinson only requires two camps and the work of establishing and moving to Camp 1 is great preparation for the big move to Camp 2 (high camp). They got in right on schedule so aren’t in a time crunch and are enjoying an ‘unrushed’ itinerary. Let’s hope weather continues to cooperate and makes the move to Camp 2 relatively easy, too.

That’s it.  Everyone’s doing well, everyone’s reasonably healthy, and all teams are making progress towards their objectives. That’s a good thing.

We’ve included a couple of shots of our Ecuador team’s summit morning on Cayambe. It was a good climb!

Phil Ershler

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Cayambe Summit!

January 9, 2019

Cayambe (Luke Reilly)

Just heard from Jay and Romulo. The team is back at the Hacienda Guachala having lunch. Oh ya, by way of the summit of Cayambe. Congratulations, team. Light snow for several hours this morning but not enough to force the team to turn. Finally broke up high and summit ended up being nice.  Descent was straightforward and after packing up at the hut, they made their way to the Hacienda. After lunch, they’ll drive east to the hot springs of Papallacta. Cold beers and hot water is on the afternoon agenda. What a nice way to end a long, but very successful day.

Phil Ershler

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Climb in Mongolia in 2019

January 9, 2019

High Camp with Mount Khuiten in the background (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

High Camp with Mount Khuiten in the background (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

 

We are looking forward to visiting Mongolia’s capital city of Ulaanbaatar and climbing Mount Khuiten and Peak Nairandal in the Altai Mountain Range this summer.  If you are looking for a real adventure with some great climbing, accompanied by camels for the trek, Mongolia is the place for you!  Need more information about Mongolia?  Send Greg Vernovage an email.

Greg Vernovage

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