March 8, 2019
IMG climbers reaching the summit of Mt. Whitney (Kurt Wedberg)
The snowpack in the Sierra is well above average this year and we expect this will make for the most magnificent views in a place already known for magnificent views. All the more reason to climb the Mountaineer’s Route on Mt. Whitney with IMG!
We have the following availability:
March 28-31
March 30 – April 2
April 6-9
Email: office@mountainguides.com for more information or sign up now!
Heather Garland
March 7, 2019
IMG Guides, Rikki Dunn & Nicole Sims, set the bar high with how well they ran the second Denali Prep Seminar of the season. Their first couple of days on the mountain found them under sunny skies, but weather moved in as soon as they arrived at Camp Muir. This gave them the opportunity to evaluate conditions, consider the forecast, and determine the best strategy for training in inclement weather.
The storm provided the team with the perfect conditions for practicing whiteout navigation skills, crevasse rescue techniques, and avalanche hazard evaluation. The team descended back to IMG HQ today happy, healthy, and full of enthusiasm! Well done!
We still have 1 spot available on both our March 16th & March 30th seminars. Sign up today!
Heather Garland
March 8, 2019
IMG Rainier Women’s Climb July 2018 (Emily Johnston)
From the bottom of our hearts to the top of the world, International Mountain Guides would like to wish all women around the world a very happy International Women’s Day! May you feel empowered to pursue your dreams wherever they lead – today and every day.
Heather Garland
March 6, 2019
Sled hauling (Nicole Sims)
The IMG Denali Prep Seminar enjoyed sunshine and blue skies for their first three days on the mountain. They experienced an unexpected temperature inversion (it was warmer the higher up they went instead of colder) on their hike up to Camp Muir on Monday causing them to shed layers. It has been a bit windy the past two days while they explored the terrain and worked on cramponing techniques.
Denali Prep Seminar heading up (Nicle Sims)
The weather has since changed and they are dealing with snow and winds today that are keeping visibility at about 200 meters. The inclement weather is all part of the program for these groups as much of the training is geared toward bigger ranges where retreat is not always an option.
The team will work on crevasse rescue and haul systems today and try to keep the sideways blowing snow from causing too much trouble.
We have 1 spot left on our March 30 – April 5 seminar and 3 spots on the April 27 – May 3. Submit your registration to office@mountainguides.com before they fill!
Heather Garland
March 5, 2019
Little Tahoma (Robert Jantzen)
If you have your sights set on the more remote and challenging climbing found in the vast wilderness of Alaska’s Wrangell-St. Elias National Park you’ll need some solid training first. IMG has created the perfect program for you. Our 5.5 Day Little Tahoma Seminar is made up of small teams (4 climbers, 2 guides), is offered only twice per year (when conditions are ideal for this type of training), and held far from the crowds on Rainier.
We still have room on the following:
These seminars are run by the most experienced IMG guides and are exactly what you need to take your mountaineering to the next level!
Email: office@mountainguides.com for availability.
Heather Garland
March 4, 2019
IMG Lead Guide, Rikki Dunn, and the Denali Prep Team (Nicole Sims)
Our Denali Prep Team spent yesterday training in the Alta Vista/Panorama Point area just above Paradise before setting up tents for their first night of expedition-style camping on Rainier. They woke up to clear skies and cold temps this morning, packed up their gear, and headed to Camp Muir.
All is well!
Heather Garland
March 1, 2019
IMG climbers on Rainier’s Fuhrer Finger route (Chris Meder)
Winter is rolling right along and the spring Rainier season is just around the corner. While there aren’t many ways left to join a guided trip up the mountain, we do have room for intermediate/experienced climbers on our May 19-24 Fuhrer Finger climb.
If’ you’ve already climbed the Emmons or the Kautz and would like something more challenging, then take a look at the much less crowded Fuhrer Finger. These climbs are limited to 4 climbers and 2 guides and we only attempt the route in the early season when conditions are best. With all of the snow in the Cascades this year, we expect those conditions to be better than they have in quite some time!
Email: office@mountainguides.com or submit your application for review today!
Heather Garland
February 26, 2019
Phunuru marshals in the B3 at Kongde Lodge on a foggy day (Anthony Nightingale)
Ang Jangbu checked in overnight to let us know that our food, gear, and oxygen shipments have cleared Nepal Customs and been delivered. This is an important moment for our 2019 IMG Everest Expedition. One less thing to worry about! Now everything is getting repacked over the next few days for the rugged trip to Everest Base Camp. For the oxygen cylinders, we re-wrap them in foam and get them into stronger containers. This does the trick for the bumpy road to Phaplu (80 miles east of KTM), the helicopter flight, and then getting carried by yaks or porters.
Cargo from Phaplu normally would get flown to Shyangboche in the big Russian MI 17 helicopter. That heli is unavailable this year in Nepal, so instead the cargo will go to Pangboche via slingload under an AS350 B3. This is a smaller helicopter lifting a smaller load, but we are getting the stuff flown higher up the valley, so that is a plus.
First load of food and gear ready to start the journey to Phaplu (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Gear is on the move for Mount Everest!
Greg Vernovage
February 26, 2019
IMG AIARE 1 Course at Paradise on Mt. Rainier (Heather Garland)
The IMG AIARE 1 Course spent yesterday and today snowshoeing and skinning through deep powder snow at Paradise on Mt. Rainier. The course objectives included: how to plan a trip into the backcountry, how to choose a strategy to limit avalanche exposure, and how to recognize avalanche terrain.
The team explored terrain in the Alta Vista area, Edith Creek into Paradise Valley, and the western side of Mazama Ridge. They spent time writing down their observations and comparing what they found with the NWAC Forecast, testing the stability of the snowpack by digging, and today they found evidence of what looked like a D2 wind slab avalanche at the top of Golden Gate. You can read their full reports on the NWAC Observations Page.
IMG Guide & AIARE Director of Recreational Programs, Liz Riggs Meder, was Course Leader.
IMG Guide & NWAC Avalanche Awareness Instructor, Nate Berry, was Course Instructor.
You can learn more about how to recognize and avoid avalanche terrain by using the tools in the links below and taking courses.
The American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE)
The Northwest Avalanche Center (NWAC)
IMG HQ
February 23, 2019
Porter leading a team up the Disappointment Cleaver Route using 10 point horizontal steel crampons (Dallas Glass)
Intro
There are several pieces of gear that are absolutely mandatory for climbing peaks such as Mt Rainier, and crampons are one of them. However, there are many types crampons and not all are created equal. We will discuss the differences in depth in this article. Some of the distinctions we will make include material, point configuration, and attachment method.
Steel vs Aluminum Crampons
Modern crampons are made from either steel or aluminum, depending upon the expected use. Aluminum crampons are intended for when weight is at a premium and every gram must be shaved from one’s pack, these crampons are frequently half the weight of their steel counterparts. However, aluminum crampons can break, bend, and wear down very quickly, therefore they are not a suitable choice for most of our climbing adventures and are not appropriate for any route on Mt Rainier. Steel crampons are a better choice for most scenarios. They won’t bend and they won’t wear down quickly when we walk on rock. They are heavier than aluminum but that is a sacrifice we must make in order to stay safe in the mountains. In my own climbing, I usually use steel crampons, but I will take aluminum crampons for ski mountaineering where I know I will not encounter rocks or hard ice, and I will only be using the crampons on the ascent. For Mt Rainier, steel crampons are mandatory.
IMG Guide, Jay Lyons, on the Kautz using 12 point horizontal steel crampons. (Porter McMichael)
12 Point vs 10 Point Crampons
This is the distinction that companies usually make between their entry level crampons and their more technical crampons. Typical crampons have 4 points on the heel piece, 2 front points, 2 secondary points and either 2 or 4 additional points on the toe piece. By having 4 additional points (making it a 12 point crampon) the secondary points can be moved farther forward. This results in more “stability†in very steep terrain because more than just your front points will be contacting the snow or ice. Therefore, 10 point crampons are considered less technical than 12 point crampons. As such, 12 point crampons will work for all standard mountaineering routes in the Cascades, while 10 point crampons will work for the routes that don’t have steep snow or ice. The 10 point crampons are designed for snow walking and offer less purchase on steep slopes, but they’re also lighter and cheaper. For Mt.Rainier, the Camp Muir/Disappointment Cleaver route and the Emmons Glacier route can be climbed with 10 or 12 point crampons. Every route we guide can be climbed with 12 point crampons.
IMG Guide, Conrad Wharton, uses vertical front point crampons in technical terrain on Argonaut Peak. (Porter McMichael)
Horizontal vs Vertical Front Points
There are 2 orientations to choose from for the front points of your crampons. Either vertical or horizontal, depending on the terrain you expect to climb. We choose horizontal front points for the majority of routes on Mt Rainier because these crampons are lighter, simpler, less expensive, and the horizontal points can offer a slight boost in efficiency when walking on snow. Vertical front point crampons are designed for vertical terrain. We use these crampons for vertical ice and rock as the vertical points tend to stick better in ice and hold better on rock. However, these crampons are expensive and unnecessary for most climbers. I use vertical front point crampons for steep alpine ice routes and mixed routes (vertical rock and ice) but I use horizontal front point crampons for everything else. One important note is that some vertical front point crampons do not have anti-balling plates. This is a piece of rubber on the bottom of crampons that serves to prevent snow from building. This “balling†can be very dangerous and therefore I only recommend using crampons with anti-balling plates for mountaineering.
Attachment Methods
There are 3 standard attachment methods for crampons. Strap, semi-auto, and fully auto. Strap crampons can be affixed to any footwear. They can go on hiking boots or even running shoes. However, it is very difficult to get a secure attachment with a strap system. Additionally, once put on, the crampons can loosen and fall off. I recommend staying away from strap on crampons. Semi-auto attachment crampons are quite secure and what I recommend for most climbers. These crampons have a plastic “bail†at the heel that cams onto a plastic ledge on the heels of most modern mountaineering boots, resulting in a very tight fit. The front of the crampon has a plastic loop that fits around the toe. When properly adjusted, this attachment results in your crampons having very little play between the crampon and the sole of your boot. Last is the fully auto system. These crampons have the same heel bail as the semi-auto crampons but have a wire toe bail that fits with the groove in the toe of fully rigid boots (only). When properly adjusted, this attachment results in your crampons having no play between the sole of your boot, which is great for very technical climbing. However, I have found fully auto crampons to be very finicky about boot/crampon fit and therefore I recommend you buy semi-auto crampons even if you have fully rigid boots unless you are experienced enough to assess boot/crampon fit. Strap, semi-auto, and fully auto are universal terms, and most companies use some different array of terms. This can be confusing, so make sure to ask and confirm that you’re getting the attachment type you want!
Putting it All Together
I know these distinctions can be confusing, so I will try to distill it down here. For the Disappointment Cleaver on Mt Rainier, you will need steel crampons, with either 10 or 12 points, and horizontal front points. This is the most common crampon and what I recommend most people buy as their first pair (in the 12 point, semi-auto configuration). There are countless crampons in the category but IMG’s rentals are Petzl Vasaks, these are a great option. If your goals are fast and light ski mountaineering on routes with low technical difficulty and no rock, then 10 point aluminum will be your best option. Finally, if you plan to climb a lot of steep ice then you will want steel vertical front point crampons. In this category, the Petzl Lynx is a great choice and works well in a lot of mountaineering roles. Remember, people climbed all the routes on Rainier with hand made steel crampons with no front points. Every steel crampon today is incredible, so don’t obsess over the tiny details.
How to Buy
Crampons are expensive. Even the cheapest 10 point models cost well over $100. It’s harder to find quality used crampons than it is boots or cloths. (Most crampons on the used market are very old and will work poorly compared to modern options.) Therefore, you will probably have to buy new crampons. If you own boots, take your boots to a retailer and try to find a crampon that fits the shape of your boot well. Many crampons will likely fit, choose which one fit your requirements, boot, and budget. Good luck and please reach out with any questions!
Feel free to email office@mountainguides.com or call 360-569-2609 with your questions and be sure to follow @porter.mcmichael and @intermationamountainguides on Instagram for inspiring pictures of the world’s great mountains and treks!
See you in the mountains!
Porter McMichael
