June 3.5 Day DC Climbs Available!

March 22, 2019

The DC in June 2018 (Harry Hamlin)

Every so often luck goes your way! We’ve just had a spot become available on each of the following climbs:

June 5-8
June 15-18
June 21-24

All climbs are via the “standard route”, the Disappointment Cleaver. The climbing begins at Paradise and ascends the Muir Snowfield before spending a night at Camp Muir at 10,000′. Wake up to a pancake breakfast cooked by your guides before training on crampon technique, ice axe self-arrest, and rope team travel. After lunch, the team crosses the Cowlitz Glacier and climbs through Cathedral Gap to the Ingraham Flats Camp for an early night to bed. Overnight, the team will begin their summit bid!

Email: office@mountainguides.com or call 360-569-2609 for details or sign up now!

Heather Garland

Denali Prep Seminar Day 5

March 21, 2019

: Denali Prep Seminar learning the ropes (Rowan Stewart)

: IMG Guide, Jay Lyons, scouting a training area (Rowan Stewart)

The Denali Prep Seminar will train on the Nisqually Glacier today. IMG Guides, Jay Lyons & Rowan Stewart, scouted out a nice crevasse this morning and the team will spend the day applying their newly acquired knowledge of snow and ice anchors and add technical crevasse rescue systems, including self-rescue, to their repertoire.

: IMG Guide, Jay Lyons, with Little T in the background (Rowan Stewart)

: The view from Camp Muir (Rowan Stewart)

The weather shifts today and the team can expect clouds and eventually precipitation either before they head down tomorrow or as they depart. They may even have a chance to work on navigation skills in less than clear conditions. A good skill to have on any mountain!

We still have one spot available on our April 27 – May 3 Denali Prep Seminar. Sign up today!

We also have room on our Little Tahoma Seminar. This seminar helps prepare you for more technical climbs in the Alps, Alaska, and the Himalayas. If you have aspirations for the Mattehorn, Ama Dablam, or something in the Wrangell-St. Elias range, this seminar is for you!

Heather Garland

Learning The Ropes – Denali Prep Seminar On Rainier

March 20, 2019

: Learning the ropes: fixed line transitions (Rowan Stewart)

: Good times! (Rowan Stewart)

Looks like another fine day on Rainier for our Denali Prep Seminar! We received some additional pictures from them overnight and thought we’d share a little more of what they’ve been doing up there on the mountain.

: Rope team travel (Rowan Stewart)

: Thumbs up (Rowan Stewart)

While this team won’t see any of the wintry weather the last team saw, the unseasonably warm temperatures they are experiencing offer the chance to explore a bit more of the mountain. However, they have abandoned any hopes of a summit due to the high avalanche danger.

: Denali Prep Seminar in action (Rowan Stewart)

: Learning the ropes: descending (Rowan Stewart)

We still have one spot available on our April 27 – May 3 Seminar. Sign up today or email office@mountainguides.com for more information!

Heather Garland

Sign Up For An Upcoming Climb Or Trek w/IMG!

March 19, 2019

Mt. Whitney Summit (Kurt Wedberg)

Register now while there’s still room on the following IMG trips!

Mt. Whitney Mountaineer’s Route
April 6-9

Mt. Rainier Fuhrer Finger
May 19-24

Mt. Baker Easton Glacier
June 7-9

Mt. Shuksan Sulphide Glacier
June 10-13

Cordillera Huayhuash Peru Trek
July 6-21

Mt. Elbrus
July 27 – August 10

Mt. Shuksan Women’s Climb Sulphide Glacier
August 2-7

If you can’t go, tell your friends about them!

Email office@mountainguides.com for more info or call 360-569-2609.

Heather Garland

Denali Prep Seminar Day Three – Fixed Line Travel On Muir Peak

March 19, 2019

: Proper footwork is essential (Robert Jantzen)

: Focusing on the various techniques for safe fixed line travel (Robert Jantzen)

Tuesday was the second day of record-breaking temps in the PNW and it was all sunshine and blue skies for the Denali Prep Team. Today they climbed up to Muir Peak and focused on fixed line travel. Freezing levels are expected to drop slightly tonight, though nice weather will remain for a couple more days. Tomorrow they’ll begin the crevasse rescue portion of the course.

: Can you spot the climber in this picture? (Robert Jantzen)

: Denali Prep Seminar training on Muir Peak (Robert Jantzen)

While the weather is perfect for a summit bid, the huge swing in temperatures has made the risk of avalanche too high at the moment. The mountain will need to shed some more snow first.

All is well on Rainier!

Heather Garland

Private Trek Arrives In Phortse

March 19, 2019

Private trek in Dingboche with Taboche behind (Mingma Tshering)

Our Private trek continues to have beautiful weather in the Khumbu Valley.Â The team made their way down to Phortse after a couple of beautiful days in Dingboche. Once in Phortse, the team was welcomed by many of the Sherpa who work for IMG. It is simply put like coming home. Tomorrow, the plan is to trek to Khunde where they will meet a few helicopters. This will cut a few days going downhill and allow them to take in the beautiful views from a different angle.

: Thamserku from upper Pangboche (Mingma Tshering)

: From Orsho on the way down from Dingboche with Kangtega (left) and Thamserku (Mingma Tshering)

All is well in the Khumbu Valley!

Greg Vernovage

Denali Prep Seminar ‘Team 3’ Heads To Muir

March 18, 2019

Denali Prep Seminar – Sled Hauling (Robert Jantzen)

Our third Denali Prep Seminar of the season, led by Rikki Dunn, awoke to sunshine and blue skies after spending a clear night camped just below Panorama Point.

On Day One, sleds are used to haul loads to the first camp site. The team then sets up tents as they would on an expedition. The next morning, they pack up all of their gear and set off for Camp Muir at 10,000′ via the Muir Snowfield, wearing heavy packs (Team 3 is a full crew of 12, so lots of food!) and traveling in snowshoes. All essential skills for a trip to Denali.

Denali Prep Seminar heading uphill (Robert Jantzen)

While teams often welcome challenging weather at some point during their seminar, it looks like the nice weather expected this week will instead provide an opportunity for training in warmer than average conditions – they’ll talk about how this affects the snowpack on various aspects of the mountain and what this means in terms of avalanche danger. They’ll also have to consider self-care; wearing sunscreen, glacier glasses, and staying hydrated. Temps at Camp Muir should be fairly consistent over the next 36 hours and will hover right around the freezing mark day and night. Winds will be light to moderate.

All is well on Rainier!

Heather Garland

A Touch Of Snow For Our Private Dingboche Trek

March 18, 2019

Group photo in front of the Tengboche Monastery (Mingma Tshering)

More beautiful days in the Khumbu Valley for our Private Trekking Team. The weekend was broken up with a few shorter days of trekking. The first day, the team left Tengboche and stopped in Pangboche where they could visit the Monastery and enjoy a close up view of Ama Dablam. From Pangboche, the team continued up to Dingboche. Not too surprising, the team received some snow in Dingboche. This will make for beautiful photos and tea will taste that much better!

: Private Trek heading up from Pangboche (Mingma Tshering)

: Trekking to Pangboche with Ama Dablam (Mingma Tshering)

Dingboche will be the highpoint for this team as planned. Tomorrow, the Team will head back down hill and take a right in Pangboche. The trail from Pangboche to Phortse is beautiful. It is cut high into the hillside and wraps around the mountain before stopping in the home to many of our Sherpa.

Greg Vernovage

Beautiful Day For Trekking To Tengboche

March 15, 2019

Team photo with Ama Dablam, Lhotse and Mount Everest (Mingma Tshering Sherpa)

The Private Trek had an incredible day on the trail. Up and out the door early from Namche, the team enjoyed beautiful views of the valley and surrounding peaks. Legs and lungs warm up quickly on this day of trekking as the team needs to start by taking a number of stairs to the top of Namche before the trail levels off for a couple hours. Around the bend, the team gets a beautiful view of Phortse before dropping down to the river for lunch. After lunch, it is time to drop into low gear and head up the Tengboche hill. The reward is the beautiful Tengboche Monastery.

: Slowing down to take photos is a must during the trek (Mingma Tshering Sherpa)

: Tengboche at night (Mingma Tshering Sherpa)

Ang Jangbu reports that it is quiet in the Khumbu Valley right now and this trekking team has the place nearly to themselves!

Greg Vernovage

Active Rest Days in Namche

March 14, 2019

Trekking team at the Park Headquarters with the great statue of Tenzing Norgay (Mingma Tshering)

Our Private Trek had a wonderful day resting and acclimatizing in Namche today. Some members visited the view point near the Park Headquarters and others chose to take it easy in preparation for the trek to Tengboche tomorrow. From the Park Headquarters, you can see Ama Dablam, Everest and Lhotse just behind the great statue of Tenzing Norgay.

Happy Birthday Richard! (Sonam Dorgee Sherpa)

One of the highlights of the day was celebrating Richardâ€™s birthday. It is always fun to celebrate in the Khumbu Valley with our Sherpa Team!

Greg Vernovage