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Bolivia Summit Team in La Paz

June 5, 2019

We have just received word from our team in La Paz that the Illimani Summit Team has returned and checked into the hotel. Great news and congratulations again to the them! Lead Guide, Roberto Gomez managed to get a summit photo sent off to us on their way back:

Lunch Ledge on the way to High Camp (Roberto Gomez)
Lunch Ledge on the way to High Camp (Roberto Gomez)
Illimani Summit Team (Roberto Gomez)
Illimani Summit Team (Roberto Gomez)

The team will get checked into the hotel, get a good shower and then head out for the celebratory dinner before heading home.

It has been a great trip to Bolivia, and we are looking forward to having the same great success during our July Trip happening from July 21 – August 9, 2019!

Greg Vernovage

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Illimani Summits!

June 4, 2019

We have just received great news from Bolivia! Our Team of climbers summited Illimani (21,200’). Summit day on Illimani is challenging right from the start at High Camp. The team begins the climb by heading up a narrow ridge before traversing to their first break. After a quick stop for food and water, the team continues towards the headwall. The climb up to the summit ridge is a true test. This is a steep enough climb that the team will most likely use a fixed line, running belays or pitch it out. As the team gains the summit ridge, they also gain the morning sun which is very welcome after climbing through the cool night.

Looking up at Illimani from High Camp (Greg Vernovage)
Looking up at Illimani from High Camp (Greg Vernovage)
Above High Camp on Illimani (Adam Clark)
Above High Camp on Illimani (Adam Clark)
Illimani Summit (Greg Vernovage)
Illimani Summit (Greg Vernovage)

The team is now on their way back to Base Camp where they will spend the night before returning to La Paz.

Greg Vernovage

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Waiting Game on Denali

June 4, 2019

Andy and team are still playing a bit of a waiting game up at 17K. Weather is the issue which decides when they take a shot at the summit. Been too windy to make a safe summit attempt. They’ve still got time, so trying now to time things ‘just right’. They’re dug in with supplies to wait long, and they’re feeling well. Come on, weather!

The slope from 14K to 16K (Jason Edwards)

The slope from 14K to 16K (Jason Edwards)

Austin and crew are in a good position at 14K. They’ve picked up their cache at 13.5K and will now make a carry up onto the Buttress as soon as they can. They too are watching the weather carefully. Preference for them would be to get their carry done and then sit at 14K until ‘signs say yes’ and then head for the summit right away. Lots of food and fuel at 14K so they’re being patient and will be ready to move when the mountain says move.

Phil Ershler

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Bolivia Team Moves To High Camp On Illimani

June 3, 2019

Illimani Base Camp (Greg Vernovage)
Climbing to High Camp On Illimani (Adam Clark)

Great news from the Team on Illimani overnight. Base Camp on Illimani is one of the best camp sites in the world!  The team sleeps near a small stream in the meadows of the lower mountain.  At night, the moon rises above Illimani and the view of the lights in El Alto and La Paz are amazing.

This morning, the team packed up camp and they are heading to High Camp.  The route to High Camp begins with a trek up and over the first ridge to more technical terrain.  At the lunch stop ledge, the team kicks back the pace and slowly works their way up the ridge to High Camp (17,875ft).  This is a small camp that fits 4-5 tents.  The team will have the afternoon at High Camp before eating an early dinner and heading to bed.  It will be an early night for the team so they can wake up and start heading for the summit!

Greg Vernovage

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Bolivia Climbers heading for Illimani

June 2, 2019

HIking to Illimani Base Camp (Adam Clark)

The first part of the Bolivia trip to the Condoriri area and Huayna Potosi has wrapped up, and some of the climbers are now heading for home.  Well done, team!  For the remaining climbers, after their hard work of getting well acclimatized and a couple rest days in La Paz, now it’s time to go take advantage of it and climb something higher, like 21,200’ Illimani!  The goal for today is Base Camp, situated at about 15,750’ in a nice meadow at the base of the mountain.  So far so good!

Eric Simonson

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Weather Transition Day on Denali

June 1, 2019

Quick weekend ‘strategy’ update: Andy and crew sat today after having already made their carry high. Plan is to move to high camp tomorrow. Weather is calling for a transition day tomorrow with mostly dry weather Monday and Tuesday with winds less than 30 knots up high. Sunday seems like the day to make their move up high and get established at high camp.

Ridge of the West Buttress going up to high camp (Jason Edwards)

Ridge of the West Buttress going up to high camp (Jason Edwards)

Meanwhile, Austin and team are making their move to 14K today. They’ll need to pick up their cache at 13,500’, but we’ll have to see exactly when they do that. This is where the ‘art’ of guiding comes in. Weather, acclimatization, team strength, weather, motivation –- they all play a role in the decision-making. We’ll just have to see how things unfold for Team 3.

Regardless, all is fine on the mountain. The guides will get a kick out of being together, at least for the night.

Phil Ershler

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Denali Update

May 31, 2019

Heading up to the 14K Camp (Jason Edwards)
On route to 14K (Jason Edwards)

Andy’s team is at 14K and ready to move to high camp once they have a favorable forecast. Meanwhile, Austin is at 11K and may well ‘catch’ Andy at 14K. We always try to be prepared to move lower on the mountain in marginal weather and then try to be patient (and smart) and pick a good weather window for a summit attempt. Forecast currently calls for snow and cold temperatures up high through Sunday.

Denali is a challenging expedition!!

Phil Ershler

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All To The Top On Rainier!

May 31, 2019

Sunny summit morning on the Ingraham Direct (Jay Lyons)

After weeks of unstable weather, the summit rotations have returned with three teams to the top in the last three days! IMG Lead Guides, Jay Lyons & Mike Haft, have given us back to back summits on the Ingraham Direct while Conrad Wharton took the first Kautz team of the season up through the ice chute to the summit and down the ID.

An excellent effort by all in favorable weather and conditions!

All is well on Rainier!

Heather Garland

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Huayna Potosi Summits!

May 30, 2019

Fabricio reported from Bolivia that the team was successful today on two routes on 19,974 ft Huayna Potosi. Chad and Dan climbed the French Route while Scott, Jonathan and Ted summited the Normal Route.

Dawn on the climb of Huayna Potosi (Roberto Gomez)
Dawn on the climb of Huayna Potosi (Roberto Gomez)
Dawn break on Huayna Potosi (Roberto Gomez)
Dawn break on Huayna Potosi (Roberto Gomez)
On the way to the summit (Roberto Gomez)
On the way to the summit (Roberto Gomez)

Dan and Chad on the French Route on Huayna Potosi (Hillarion Choque)
Dan and Chad on the French Route on Huayna Potosi (Hillarion Choque)
Summit of Huayna Potosi (Roberto Gomez)
Summit of Huayna Potosi (Roberto Gomez)
Way to go Ted (Roberto Gomez)
Way to go Ted (Roberto Gomez)

After a gorgeous morning on the mountain, the team descended to base camp and kept on going! After a late lunch the prospect of a second rest day was motivation for them to continue hiking on down to the trailhead, eventually reaching La Paz this evening. These guys are horses. Well done!

Next up (after a couple rest days) the team will be heading to Illimani (over 21,000 feet). Thanks to our guides Roberto, Jesus, and Hilarion for sending some great photos when they got back to LaPaz!

Eric Simonson

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Bolivia Climbers Ready For Huayna Potosi

May 30, 2019

Huayna Potosi (Greg Vernovage)

The Bolivia climbers have now moved up to High Camp on Huayna Potosi (17,060ft/5200m) with the help of some porters and are in position to summit.

The weather has been excellent, so we are hoping for good news from the team!

Eric Simonson

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