September 3, 2019
Pisac Market during a tour of the Sacred Valley (Charlotte Austin)
Everything is good in Peru! Yesterday we had a great tour of the Sacred Valley, and we’re heading out this morning to start trekking. Everybody’s looking forward to hitting the trail!
Charlotte Austin
September 3, 2019
IMG Senior Guide, Phunuru Sherpa, checked in with news from Shigatse (12,467’/3,800m) overnight. The team had great day stretching their legs and visiting the Tashi Lhunpo Monastery. The weather was cool and damp but that did not stop the team from getting out and exploring the area around Shigatse and taking the tour of Tashi Lhunpo.
Our Sherpa Team is at Chinese Base Camp preparing loads and camp for the teams arrival. We have 15 yaks arriving tomorrow to pick up loads and begin the trek to ABC. From Chinese Base Camp, our Sherpa Team will head up to Intermediate Camp and then to ABC.
Greg Vernovage
September 2, 2019
Our Climbing Team and Sherpa Team were both on the move today. Phunuru checked in to let us know that everyone is doing well and now settled in at Shigatse (12,467’/3,800m). Tomorrow will be a day of acclimatization for the team and they will hike up and around the monastery.
Our Sherpa Team has also made it up to Chinese Base Camp. They are actually camping a little further up the road from normal Chinese Base Camp in an area called Dremobuk. The Sherpa have already set up kitchen and sleeping tents and will get the dining tent set up tomorrow. They will also start re-packing gear for the trek to ABC. They have yaks scheduled to arrive for the trek in a couple days which makes everything on schedule.
All is well in Tibet!
Greg Vernovage
September 1, 2019
Phunuru Sherpa checked in to let us know the team had another great day in Lhasa. The team changed their plans slightly as The Shoton Festival (yogurt festival) started in Lhasa, so Norbu Linka would be a must to visit! There were many Tibetan families picnicking in the Norbu Linka garden and Tibetan opera was going on as well.
The team also visited the Sera Monastery before heading back to the hotel to prepare for the move up to Shigatse in the morning. Our Sherpa Team has made it to Tingri as well. The Sherpa will do some repacking and shopping before heading up to Chinese Base Camp.
Greg Vernovage
August 31, 2019
IMG Senior Guide Phunuru Sherpa checked in with some beautiful pictures of the day in Lhasa. The team is doing great and had a nice day touring the Potala Palace and the Jokhang Temple. The weather is beautiful and the team is acclimatizing well.
Tomorrow they will go see Norbu Linka in the morning and then the Sera monastery in the afternoon. The Shoton festival (yogurt festival) started in Lhasa so Norbu Linka will be a festive area for the team. They will see Tibetan families picnicking in the Norbu Linka garden and hear some of the Tibetan opera going on.
Our Sherpa Team has crossed the border and will be heading to Tingri tomorrow morning. The team had to slow their progress to wait for a small landslide to be cleared, but they are still moving well.
Once in Tingri, the Sherpa Team will buy more fresh food before heading to Chinese Base Camp to start preparing for the team’s arrival.
All is well in Tibet!
Greg Vernovage
August 30, 2019
Our 2019 Cho Oyu Team has arrived in Lhasa! IMG Senior Guide Phunuru Sherpa checked in to report the team had a perfect flight across the Himalayas from Kathmandu, then a great afternoon getting settled in and meeting with the local staff. Lhasa 11,995’ (3,650m) is a big jump in altitude for the team, so they will spend 3 nights to help with acclimatization. Tomorrow, the plan for the team is to tour the Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple. Our Cho Oyu Sherpa Team is now at the Kyirong border and will be crossing into Tibet tomorrow morning with a big truck load of gear.
This kicks off a busy Autumn Season in Nepal and Tibet! Our Putha Hiunchuli Team is scheduled to arrive in Kathmandu on September 16 and we are looking forward to climbing again this remote and beautiful 23,773’ (7,246m) mountain in the Dhaulagiri area.  In September we also have several Private Everest Treks, heading to both the Nepal side and to the Kangshung (east) Face in Tibet. October will see our 3X3 trekkers and  Lobuche Peak and Ama Dablam climbers arriving to Kathmandu for the Autumn season in the Khumbu Valley. Finally, we’ll also be running our first Manaslu Circuit trek later this season.
Whether you are looking to trek or climb, the Himalaya is the place to be this Autumn!
Greg Vernovage
August 29, 2019
As the Rainier seasons winds down, our New England guides are making their way back across the country for winter in the White Mountains, the birthplace of mountaineering and ice climbing in the United States. If you’re looking to develop cold weather mountaineering and ice climbing skills that’ll take you to places from Rainier to Denali to Everest, New Hampshire is the perfect place to do it. IMG Guides, Craig John, Nickel Wood, Dan Riethmuller, and AJ Hunter are ready to share their technical expertise and general love for the rugged terrain and notorious weather found in the Whites.
Email office@mountainguides.com for more info on private ascents of Mt. Washington, Presidential Traverses, roadside ice cragging, multi-pitch ice climbing in the gullies, and one to four day mountaineering seminars.
Watch for group dates to be released soon.
Heather Garland
August 29, 2019
Heading to camp (Greg Leuthe)
Climb Mt. Whitney (14,495′), the highest peak in the lower 48, with IMG next spring! Our route of ascent is the Mountaineer’s Route on the east side of the mountain, a snow climb on terrain up to 45°. Techniques employed include running belays and fixed line ascension, making this an excellent primer for a Denali Expedition, climbing elsewhere in Alaska, and the Alps.
Available dates:
March 26-29, 2020
March 28-31, 2020
April 2-5, 2020
April 4-7, 2020
April 9-12, 2020
Sign up now and start training! All participants must be in excellent physical condition with the ability to carry 50+lb packs while ascending 2-3,000′ in steep terrain per day.
Email office@mountainguies.com for more info!
Heather Garland
August 27, 2019
Climbers ascending Orizaba (Chris Meder)
If you’re looking for a high-altitude follow up to Rainier, don’t miss out on our Mexico Volcanoes trip November 9-17 ! Climb Ixtaccihuatl (17,338′) via Arista del Sol or the Ayoloco Glacier and Orizaba (18,491′) via the Jamapa Glacier with IMG Lead Guide, Dallas Glass.
Use up some of that time off you’ve accumulated this year and spend just over a week experiencing the culture and climbing of Mexico!
Email: office@mountainguides.com for more info!
Heather Garland
August 23, 2019
With the pending release of 2020 Rainier dates (sometime in September), you’re likely wondering which route you should climb or which course to take. We can’t choose for you, but we did put together some information to help you decide.
Basic Info
All IMG Rainier climbs and seminars are guided at a 2:1 ratio and include a shuttle from our Ashford headquarters to and from the trailhead. We provide group gear (tents, ropes, stoves, etc.), and breakfast & dinner on the mountain. Training goals for all programs should include the ability to climb 1,000 vertical feet/per hour while carrying a 35-55lb pack for 4,000’ over 4-5 hours with ~10 min breaks each hour.
2020 Programs
IMG Guide, Ryan Dougherty, approaching the summit of Mt. Rainier (Nickel Wood)
3.5 Day Camp Muir/DC
Day 1 2PM Gear Check @ IMG HQ
Day 2 Paradise (5,400’) to Camp Muir (~10,080’)
Day 3/4 Camp Muir to Ingraham Flats (~11,200’) followed by overnight summit bid, descend to Paradise, shuttle back to IMG HQ
Key considerations:
A little bit of solitude on the Emmons (Harry Hamlin)
4.5 Day Emmons
Day 1 2PM Gear Check @ IMG HQ
Day 2 White River Trailhead (4,200’) to camp on the Inter Glacier (~8,000’)
Day 3 Inter Glacier to Camp Schurman (9,600’)
Day 4 Summit day, descend to Schurman
Day 5 Hike down to White River, shuttle back to IMG HQ
Key considerations:
Climbing the Kautz (Jonathan Schrock)
4.5 Day Kautz
Day 1 2PM Gear Check @ IMG HQ
Day 2 Paradise (5,400’) to Nisqually Glacier to Camp 1 (~7,000’)
Day 3 Camp 1 to high camp (~10,000’)
Day 4 Summit day (12-16 hour day), descend to high camp
Day 5 Descend to Paradise, shuttle back to IMG HQ
Key considerations:
5.5 Day Kautz adds technical training on Day 2 and departs for Paradise on Day 3
Climbing the Fuhrer Finger (Chris Meder)
5.5 Day Fuhrer Finger
Day 1 2PM Gear Check @ IMG HQ
Day 2 Paradise (5,400’) to Camp 1 (~7,000’)
Day 3 Camp 1 to Camp 2 at the base of the route (~8,500’)
Day 4 Depending on conditions, move up the Fuhrer Finger at first light & establish a new campsite at the top of the Finger at (~11,500 feet)
Day 5 Primary summit day. If a high camp is established, depart at first light for the summit. The round trip will take approximately 8 hours.
Day 6 Descend to Paradise, shuttle back to IMG HQ
Key considerations:
Awash in the morning light above Thumb Rock on a climb of Liberty Ridge (Ann Sparks)
5.5 Day Liberty Ridge
Day 1 2PM Gear Check @ IMG HQ
Day 2 White River Campground to Camp 1 at Lower Curtis Ridge (7,000′)
Day 3 Camp 1 to Thumb Rock (10,700′) on slopes of 40-45 degrees
Day 4/5 Summit day – long and on continuously steep slopes for almost 4,000 vertical feet
Day 5/6 Descend to Camp Schurman on the Emmons or via the DC to Paradise, shuttle back to IMG HQ
Key considerations:
Technical skills training on a Glacier Skills Seminar (Nate Sievert)
6.5 Day Glacier Skills Seminar
Day 1 2PM Gear Check @ IMG HQ
Day 2 Paradise (5,400’) to Camp 1 (~7,000’) on the Paradise Glacier
Day 3 Skills session, climb to Camp 2 (~9,000’ or lower) on the Paradise Glacier
Day 4 Skills day on the Paradise Glacier
Day 5 Climb to Camp Muir (~10,000’)
Day 6/7 Climb to Ingraham Flats (~11,200’) followed by an overnight summit bid, descend to Paradise, shuttle back to IMG HQ
Key considerations:
Sled Hauling on the Denali Prep (Betsy Dain-Owens)
6.5 Day Denali Prep Seminar
Day 1 2PM Gear Check @ IMG HQ
Day 2 Paradise (5,400’) to Camp 1 (~7,000’)
Days 3-6 Ascend camp to camp as weather permits, training along the way
Day 7 Descend to Paradise, shuttle back to IMG HQ
Key considerations:
The chance of summiting Mt. Rainier in early season is not high, but when possible, an attempt can be useful in practicing additional climbing techniques, avalanche hazard evaluation, and route finding skills.
Little Tahoma (Dean Hill)
5.5 Day Little Tahoma Mountaineering Seminar
Day 1 2PM Gear Check @ IMG HQ
Day 2 Frying Pan Creek Trailhead to Camp 1 (~7,500’)
Day 3 Skills session, climb to Camp 2 on the Frying Pan Glacier (~9,000’)
Day 4 Full day of technical training
Day 5 Rock climbing skills session & summit of Little Tahoma, descend to camp
Day 7 Descend to Frying Pan Creek Trailhead, shuttle back to IMG HQ
Key considerations:
Proper crevasse rescue skills are essential in the mountains (Greg Vernovage)
Mountaineering Day School – One day introductory training course focusing on crampon techniques, ice axe self-arrest, and rope team travel.
Advanced Mountaineering Day School – One day introductory follow up training course focusing on cramponing on steeper terrain (40-50 degree slopes), multi-pitched belays, anchor construction & management, and rappelling.
Crevasse Rescue School – Comprehensive two day course that focuses on basic through advanced mountaineering skills from climbing knots to snow and ice anchors, ascending and descending ropes, simple crevasse rescue, advanced crevasse rescue systems, and crevasse self rescue. Designed to be taken as a stand-alone course for the experienced climber or in conjunction with the MDS & AMDS courses.
Here are a few tips to help you with the sign up process:
June/July/August typically fill within the first two weeks of registration, with much of the remainder of the season full by November. Applications are accepted only once registration is open and not in advance. Spots are only reserved with a completed application and deposit. All fees are non-refundable and trip insurance that protects your investment in the event you need to cancel is strongly recommended.
Each application is time-stamped and processed in the order in which it is received. List your available dates in order of preference and if you are climbing with one or more partners, you’ll want to include each other’s names in the space provided on the application.
We expect to release our dates sometime in September. We’ll update this blog, send out a newsletter, and post on social media (Facebook Instagram Twitter) as soon as the dates are confirmed.
Email office@mountainguides.com with any questions in the interim!
Heather Garland
