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Weekend update from Putha Hiunchuli and Cho Oyu

September 21, 2019

Oxygen training with Phunuru Sherpa (Phunuru Sherpa)
Oxygen training with Phunuru Sherpa (Phunuru Sherpa)
Cho Oyu climber practicing with the oxygen system (Phunuru Sherpa)
Cho Oyu climber practicing with the oxygen system (Phunuru Sherpa)

 

Karma Rita called to let us know the Putha Hiunchuli Team has made it to Mosi Khola today.  There were a few areas that were slightly washed out from the rain this summer but the mules were able to get across those sections without unloading.  The team enjoyed more excellent weather and will head out tomorrow morning for Kagkot.

On Cho Oyu, Phunuru spent the morning training the team on the oxygen system they will use during the summit rotation.  The team trained with the oxygen system and started packing food for their summit bid.  A perfect end to the day for the team was a sizzler for dinner!  Kaji’s sizzler is always a hit with the climbing team!

Phunuru had a meeting in the afternoon with the other teams on Cho Oyu to make a plan to head for the summit.  The Fixing Team will head up and fix to Camp 3 in the morning before returning to Camp 2 for the night.  The following day, September 23rd, the plan is to fix to the summit.  This is a strong team of Sherpa ready to head to the summit.

Fixing Team

1) Chhewang Lendu Sherpa (IMG)

2) Pasang Sherpa (IMG)

3) Palden Namgya Sherpa (Alpenglow)

4) Nima Tenzing Sherpa (Alpenglow)

5) Pemba Sherpa (Climbalaya)

6) Lhakpa Ongchu Sherpa (Himalayan Guide)

7) Nirmal Purna (Nims dai)

8) Gesman Tamang  (Nims dai’s climbing partner)

 

All is well on Putha Hiunchuli and Cho Oyu!

Greg Vernovage

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Resting At ABC On Cho Oyu

September 20, 2019

Morning light on Cho Oyu (Phunuru Sherpa)

Phunuru called to let us know the Cho Oyu Team had a great day back at ABC. Showers, laundry, lounging, and eating were the goals of the day. The weather cooperated with the teams plan and was nearly perfect according to Phunuru. No clouds or precipitation and only a light breeze to keep the tent cool enough for an afternoon nap.

Afternoon on Cho Oyu (Phunuru Sherpa)
Sunset on Cho Oyu (Phunuru Sherpa)

The Sherpa Team made a run up to Camp 2 with the last of the gear needed for the climb and were back to ABC by mid-morning. After returning from the run to Camp 2, the Sherpa also enjoyed laundry and a nap. Tomorrow, the team will do Oxygen training and start putting summit plans together. The forecast is favorable and we have our fingers crossed for the rope fixing team. Phunuru took a few photos of Cho Oyu throughout the day, we will let you decide which time of day the mountain looks most beautiful!

All is well on Cho Oyu!

Greg Vernovage

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Putha Hiunchuli Team Reaches Tarakot

September 20, 2019

Juphal Village (Mingma Dorje Sherpa)
Mingma Dorje with our Mule train (Mingma Dorje)

IMG Senior Guide, Karma Rita, checked in this morning to let us know the team had a beautiful day trekking to Tarakot. Our entire team of Sherpa and Climbers are now together after our advanced Sherpa Team collected the remaining duffels and gear from the last flight. We have 13 mules and 3 drivers trekking with the team for a few days before switching to yaks for the final stretches into base camp. The team is enjoying beautiful weather and everyone is happy to be on the trail and stretching their legs.

Greg Vernovage

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Cho Oyu Team Back At ABC

September 19, 2019

Camp 1 on Cho Oyu (Phunuru Sherpa)

IMG Senior Guide, Phunuru Sherpa, called this morning (evening on Cho Oyu) to let us know the team had a great rotation on the mountain. The team climbed well and spent 4 nights above ABC.  The team had a little snow and some wind during the rotation but everyone ate well and was strong through the acclimatization rotation. They will now rest at ABC for a few days before making plans to head up on their summit rotation. Tomorrow will be a day of showers, laundry, Kaji’s good cooking, and oxygen training.

Climbing towards the ice cliff with Camp 1 below (Phunuru Sherpa)
Looking up towards the ice cliff from Camp 1 (Phunuru Sherpa)

Our Sherpa Team will head back up to Camp 2 in the morning with the last of the gear and oxygen needed for the summit bid. Phunuru is also going to make a plan to fix to the summit in the following days. Weather dependent, we hope to get the mountain fixed by the 20th or 21st.

All is well on Cho Oyu!

Greg Vernovage

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Putha Hiunchuli Team On The Move!

September 19, 2019

The start of the trek to Putha Hiunchuli (Pega Sherpa)
Trekking route to Putha Hiunchuli Base Camp
Trekking to Dunai (Pega Sherpa)

IMG Senior Guides, Karma Rita and Pega, checked in from Dunai (7,020’/2140m) to let us know the team is doing great. The team has been quite fortunate with the weather so far. With the monsoon yet to retreat from Nepal, the various flights needed to get to Juphal have been few and far between. That said, our team is right on schedule and are now in Dunai for the night. Tomorrow, the team will continue trekking to Tarakot (8,323’/2537m).

The Putha Hiunchuli Team is off to a great start!

Greg Vernovage

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2019 Putha Hiunchuli Team Out The Door!

September 18, 2019

2019 Putha Hiunchuli Team (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

The 2019 Putha Hiunchuli Team departed Kathmandu for Nepalgunj after a slight delay. The Team has checked into the hotel and will be ready to fly in the morning to Juphal (8,103’/2470m) where they will begin their trek to Dunai (7,020’/2140m). The common theme for the Putha Hiunchuli Team is going to be patience and flexibility. We have been keeping our eye on the weather and note the monsoon has not retreated yet. We will move as the weather permits!

Putha Hiunchuli Team is on the move!

Greg Vernovgage

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Cho Oyu Team Holding At Camp 1

September 18, 2019

Descending from near Camp 1.5 (Dallas Glass)
Descending the fixed lines to Camp 1 (Dallas Glass)

The Team is holding tight at Camp 1 on Cho Oyu to continue acclimatizing. Phunuru checked in to let us know that it was snowing at Camp 1 most of the day. The team will sleep another night at Camp 1 and evaluate conditions in the morning. They will most likely pack up and head back down to ABC for some well-deserved rest. The team is feeling great and the Sherpa are working hard. Our main objective is finding the right windows to move during the breaks in the weather. The Cho Oyu Team is on schedule and is staying patient!

All is well on Cho Oyu!

Greg Vernovage

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Book Your 2020 ‘Denali Prep Seminar On Mt. Rainier’ Today!

September 15, 2019

Digging for shelter (Emily Johnston)

With only six Denali Prep Seminars available each year, the time to sign up for 2020 is now! This is the ideal program for anyone aspiring to climb Denali or any other large, glaciated, technical peak in Alaska. Mt. Rainier in winter is the perfect place to immerse yourself in a harsh, big mountain environment. Led by IMG’s world-renowned guides, each team progresses up the mountain using snowshoes and sleds, establishing expedition camps along the way to Camp Muir at 10,000′. The chance of summiting Mt. Rainier during the winter months is low, but when appropriate, an attempt can provide invaluable experience in avalanche hazard evaluation and route finding.

Seminar Topics Include:

Expedition gear and its use
Basic skills with ice axe and crampons
Expedition camp building and maintenance
Construction of snow caves and snow shelters
Ascending and descending fixed ropes
Building snow anchors and anchor systems
Expedition glacier travel and route finding
Crevasse rescue
High altitude medicine and prevention of cold weather injuries
Avalanche hazard evaluation

IMG Guides are experts in whiteout navigation (Rowan Stewart)

Denali Prep Seminar Available Dates:

February 8-14, 2020
February 22-28, 2020
March 7-13, 2020
March 21-27, 2020
April 4-10, 2020
April 18-24, 2020

Ice axe self-arrest training on a Denali Prep Seminar (Leanne Sebren)

All seminars are conducted with a 2:1 client-to-guide ratio, providing a superior level of support and safety. IMG provides breakfasts, dinners, and hot drinks for the group on the mountain. As part of the program, we provide bunk space for the night after your gear check in Ashford and a continental breakfast the next morning. We find this genuinely adds to the experience in terms of convenience, comfort, and camaraderie!

Email office@mountainguides.com or call 360-569-2609 for more information!

Heather Garland

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Cho Oyu Team at Lake Camp

September 15, 2019

Right on schedule, the Cho Oyu Team pulled out of ABC for Lake Camp. The team made great time for their first move making it to Lake Camp in about three and a half hours. Our Sherpa Team continued to Camp 1 before dropping back down to ABC for the night. Tomorrow, the team will continue up to Camp 1 at 21,000’ (6400m) and spend a couple more nights acclimatizing.

2019 Cho Oyu Team departing ABC (Kaji Sherpa)
2019 Cho Oyu Team departing ABC (Kaji Sherpa)
IMG ABC and Nangpa La (Kaji Sherpa)
IMG ABC and Nangpa La (Kaji Sherpa)

 

More good weather is in the forecast and we are looking forward hearing from Camp 1 and also from the fixing Sherpa in the coming days.

All is well on Cho Oyu!

Greg Vernovage

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Denali 2020!

September 14, 2019

Blue skies over Alaska (Mike Haft)

Interested in climbing Denali? Come climb ‘The Great One’ with IMG Denali in 2020!

Why climb Denali with IMG Denali?  IMG’s guides are the best in the industry. They have decades of experience that translates into keeping you safe and giving you the best chances of summiting. If you have climbed with IMG, reach out to your guide or the IMG office to plan your next expedition.

In the clouds on Denali (Greg Vernovage)

Climbing big mountains is not all summit photos and epic views on exposed ridgelines. More often it’s a mix of long approach days and gear shuffling. But it is all worth it when you do get those clear, cold days! Our veteran guide, Mike Haft, snapped the photo below while looking down on 14 Camp on Denali’s West Buttress.

The view of 14 Camp (Mike Haft)

If you still feel like you need more experience in harsh winter conditions in preparation for a Denali climb, get in touch!  The IMG Denali Prep Seminars on Mount Rainier are one of the best ways to dial in your systems and test your gear.

Taking an IMG Denali Prep Seminar teaches you essential sled-rigging skills required on a Denali Expedition (Greg Vernovage)

The Wrangell-St. Elias range is home to some of the best alpine climbing, but is rarely climbed due to the lure of the Alaska Range, home of Denali.  If you are looking to gain “Alaska” style expedition climbing experience, but not ready to climb Denali, IMG’s High Alaskan Ascent program is a phenomenal option.

Cold weather mountaineering in Alaska (Peter Adams)

Email: office@mountainguides.com for information on all of IMG’s Alaska programs!

Peter Adams

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