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Mt. Shuksan Climb Washington  •  9,127'  •  2782m
Itinerary

IMG Mt. Shuksan Climbs Itineraries

These itineraries are approximate and subject to change due to conditions.

Mt. Shuksan Sulphide Glacier Route Itinerary
Day 1At 8 am on Day 1, the team will meet at the Sedro-Woolley Ranger Station. At this meeting guides will issue group gear to each member as well as complete a thorough gear check. Once everyone is ready to go, the team will depart for the trailhead. The climb starts in dense forest and climbs into the lush alpine zone where the team will make camp for the night. This ascent is about 4,000 ft of vertical gain and will take approximately 5-7 hours in duration. After a long day, the team will enjoy a nice meal together before getting off to bed.
Day 2Day 2 will be a training day based out of the same camp. The team will have a leisurely breakfast in the morning before heading out onto the nearby glacier to practice their climbing skills. It is on this day that the team will learn cramponing, ice axe self-arrest, and rope travel skills. If there is time, the team may dive into other topics such as snow anchor building. After a full day of training, the team will enjoy an early dinner and get off to bed for their summit climb the next day.
Day 3The team will wake up early on Day 3 to make their summit push. The glaciated climb is a moderate climb and will potentially involve some glacier navigation around crevasses. Once at the bottom of the summit pyramid, the team will break and prepare to climb the remaining 600 feet. In the early season this feature is steep snow, but can also be a rock scramble later in the season. After a summit, the team will descend back to camp to get a full night or sleep.
Day 4On Day 4, the team will wake up and break camp. They will have a leisurely hike out back to the trailhead. Most climbs enjoy making lunch plans in Sedro-Woolley. Plan to be back in Sedro-Woolley by the early afternoon.

Mt. Shuksan Fisher Chimneys Route Itinerary
Day 1At 8 am on Day 1, the team will meet at the Glacier Ranger Station. At this meeting guides will issue group gear to each member as well as complete a thorough gear check. Once everyone is ready to go, the team will depart for the trailhead at Mt. Baker Ski Area. The climb starts in a high alpine forest and continues to Lake Ann where the team may elect to camp. If there is still time in the day, the team may go just a half an hour further and camp closer to the base of the Fisher Chimneys.
Day 2Day 2 will be dedicated to ascending the Chimneys - the first feat of the climb. This ascent can take several hours as the team moves through exposed 3rd and 4th class terrain, sometimes on belay. Once at the top of the Chimneys, the team will make camp at the base of the Lower Curtis Glacier. This camp has excellent panoramic views of nearby Mt. Baker and the rest of the North Cascades. After a long day, the team will get to bed early for their summit attempt.
Day 3The team will wake up early on Day 3 to make their summit push. The team will ascend a steep snow pitch called Winnie's Slide and then traverse onto the White Salmon Glacier. After traversing the width of the glacier, the team will climb another steep snow feature called Hell's Highway putting them onto the Sulphide Glacier. From there, it is a short and mellow climb to the base of the summit pyramid. If the group is strong, the team has the option to climb the multi-pitch 5.0 SE ridge or an easy rock scramble to gain the narrow summit block. Once on top, the team will descend back to camp. There is another option to descend the Chimneys on this day and camp back at the base, allowing for an easier Day 4.
Day 4On Day 4, the team will wake up and break camp. They will have a leisurely hike out back to the trailhead if camping at the base of the Chimneys. Most groups like to eat a group lunch together once back at the cars.

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