Climbers with La Sportiva Olympus Mons Cube Boots: Our climbers and guides have noticed a few issues with crampon compatibility with their Olympus Mons Cube Boots. While it’s important to check the compatibility of your boots and crampons regardless of the brand or type, here are a few observations Senior Guides Justin Merle and Porter McMichael have made regarding the Olympus Mons Cubes:

 

• Petzl crampons with the Leverlock heel binding and the metal toe bail were compatible with the Olympus Mons Cubes.  If you buy the Leverlock version of any Petzl crampons, they come with both a plastic front piece and a wire toe bail—you need to put the wire bail (see below diagram).

• Black Diamond crampons with the “Wide” toe bail were compatible with the Olympus Mons Cubes, but not the standard toe bail that comes with the crampon.  The Wide Toe Bail is available for an additional purchase and should work with any of Black Diamond’s “Pro” crampon binding options, but not the “Strap” or “Clip”.

• Grivel’s “Crampomatic” step in crampon binding was not compatible with the Olympus Mons Cubes

• Generally, strap on, or hybrid (lever in back, strap in front) bindings were not compatible with the Olympus Mons Cubes.

Our first Expedition Prep Seminar of the season let by Lara Railich just wrapped up. The team experienced some stormy weather and nearly 3ft of snow, conditions that will prepare them well for Denali Expeditions this spring. The team practiced a number of relevant skills such as camp building, fixed line ascension, sled rigging, and more. It ended up being a true Denali experience for everyone!

Expedition Prep climbers descend near Panorama Point

It’s been a great winter for ice climbing so far in Ouray!  Ice conditions are awesome—bolstered by a good melt-freeze cycle of cold nights and mostly temperate, sunny days.  The lack of significant snow storms has made for minimal backcountry avalanche hazard—meaning we have our choice of climbing in the Ouray Ice Park (a great place to work on skills) or on any of the local backcountry classic climbs.

So far we’ve had fun teaching Beginning and Intermediate Ice Climbing, as well as a great week with the Ouray Climbers Reunion polishing skills and climbing multi-pitch ice routes in the backcountry like Goldrush, 2^nd Gulley, and Whorehouse Hoses, and Horsetail Falls.  It’s always fun to see friends from past IMG programs climbing here in Ouray!  Beyond that, the guides are busy with custom/private climbs—this might be our most popular way to come climb in Ouray: climb on days that work for you, with your own crew.

The season will be winding down in early March.  There are a couple of programs with space available still: Feb 19^th-20^th Intro to Ice, and our 5-day Ice Climbing Seminar, Feb 21-25.  Give us a call if you’re interested in climbing with us on one of these, or we’d be happy to set you up with a guide for few days of custom/private climbing.

Happy climbing!

–Justin Merle

Working on climbing technique in the Ouray Ice Park

January 25, 2022

We love receiving Satellite Calls from the summit of mountains around the world letting us know that the team is standing on top and that all is well. That call came in just a few minutes ago from our team on Aconcagua! Climbing Aconcagua (22,842′) is challenging, it takes hard work, determination and a mental toughness to put one step in front of the other on summit day. The team did just that and are now making their way back to High Camp.  Nickel will check in and let us know what the plan is later this afternoon for descent.  No need to stay above 19,000 feet any longer than is necessary and with a summit under their belts, they will head down tired, but in great spirits!

Congratulations to the team on Aconcagua!