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Back To Cho Oyu

October 8, 2011

The road from Base Camp to Interim Camp, with Cho Oyu in the background.

Mike Hamill called from Tingri to say that he, Al, and Vanessa were doing well and heading for Cho Oyu ABC today. They will drive by jeep to Interim Camp, and from there they have three yaks waiting to help move them up to ABC.   When the Cho Oyu expedition departed last week, we had them leave behind IMG Sherpas Danuru, Karma Rita, and cook Kaji.  Mike and his team will link up with the Sherpas, with the hope of a quick trip up Cho Oyu after their climb of Shishapangma.  We’ll keep our fingers crossed that the weather holds for them.

Eric Simonson

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Fall Guide Training: Rock Rescue

October 6, 2011

Instructors Olivia and John Race and fellow guides in the guides’ classroom. (Photo by George Dunn)
Instructor Olivia Race demonstrating a tandem lower – rappelling with an injured climber. (Photo by George Dunn)

As part of IMG regularly scheduled guide training we ran a guides’ rock rescue course last weekend in Eastern Washington. 15 members of the IMG guide staff turned out. All the guides agreed the training session was an excellent review of current information, and we all came away with a few new ideas and efficiencies to add to our bag of skills.

Most importantly, we got another chance to train together as a team so that we will be even better prepared when we are next called to respond to an emergency. Course instructors included  AMGA/UIAGM certified guides Jeff Ward, John Race and Olivia Race.

Next guide training will be on ice this January in Ouray, CO, followed by a session in May on Mt. Rainier.

George Dunn

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2011 Rainier Season All Wrapped Up

October 5, 2011

Is your name on the 2011 Summit Board or will it be on 2012's?

Snow is falling at Paradise on Mt. Rainier bringing another summer to a screeching halt. It never fails, the summer flies by before we even know it started… climbers come and go and guides pack, climb, unpack & repeat. Before we know it climbers and guides alike are all gone, back to work, or off on a fall rock climbing adventure before ski season officially begins.

Let’s have a look at how this summer went here in the Cascades of the Pacific Northwest:

We had solid success on Rainier this summer even though things got off to a rough start from a weather standpoint. We had some lower than normal freezing levels and a wetter than average May & June. The good news is that the weather didn’t stop people from getting to the top – it just made things a little tougher, colder, wetter, and maybe hindered the views a little which in all honesty made for some bigger than normal smiles on the faces of climbers having earned their summit in some less than ideal conditions! July and August were great months especially since the snow stuck around a lot longer than usual making for easier walking on the lower trails. September was great, as George always says, but only lasted 2 weeks this year.  Storm after storm rolled in bringing with them various forms of precipitation and winds, which at times, topped out at over 100mph making climbing almost impossible.  All that said, our number one goal (safety) stood strong; we didn’t have a single serious incident all season long.

On the upper mountain on the Fuhrer Finger Route. (Photo by Chris Meder)

We ran several new programs inside Mt. Rainier National Park this summer, enjoying summits of Mt. Rainier via the Fuhrer Finger route as well as a guided ascent of Little Tahoma – two great options for anybody who has summitted Rainier in the past and is looking for a new or different objective while still enjoying the beauty and challenge of Mt. Rainier.

On the guide front, Josh McDowell took this year’s prize (Presented by Outdoor Research of course) for the most days on the mountain with 78 days. He also holds the record for the most bacon consumed this summer with close to 700 slices and is also the reigning pancake making champion – the Triple Crown on Rainier.

Up in the North Cascades we ran several trips on Mt. Baker as well as a ton of private climbs on mountains like Torment, Forbidden, Eldorado, Shuksan, Sharkfin Tower,  including great routes like Fischer Chimneys and the Torment-Forbidden Traverse among others. Climbing in the North Cascades is a popular next step for our climbers after a successful climb on Mt. Rainier. We’re able to set up smaller private groups allowing our climbers and guides to reunite on other, often more technical, climbing objectives.

Any way you look at it we had a great summer. Everybody worked hard scheduling and outfitting our 50 plus guides & 1000 plus climbers on over 100 climbs, on numerous routes and mountains over the course of the last 5 ½ months.

We’re out of white gas, the tents need to be repaired, the boots need to be de-funked, and the hot chocolate is running dangerously low which means it’s time to take a breath and a  quick break then get fired up about next summer – it’ll be here before we know it.

Tye Chapman

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Shishapangma Climbers Descending

October 5, 2011

Yak drivers. (Photo by Jason Edwards)

Mike Hamill called last night from Camp 1, which was how far down they got yesterday on their descent after the climb.  Today they will go on down to ABC, and the yak drivers are coming up tomorrow to meet them.  The plan now is for the members to depart BC on the 7th.  Some of the members may be going over to Cho Oyu to take a shot at that, if the weather hangs in there.  We’ll keep you posted on their plans!

Eric Simonson

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It’s a wrap.

October 4th, 2011

Eben checked in one final time today.  Porter tip ceremony – check.  Showers – check.  Lunch – check.  Celebratory dinner – check.  Bed time – check.  Tomorrow, Eben will escort our team to Arusha and say good-bye.  They’re heading off on private safari while Eben will be heading to Nepal to lead our Annapurna region trek and climb of Chulu peak.

We’ll take a break now from Kilimanjaro climbs and let the short rainy season green up the plains of Africa.  Kilimanjaro fans should check back in December for updates on our Christmas Kilimanjaro expedition.  That team will arrive in Tanzania on December 20th with IMG Senior Guide, Mike Hamill, in the lead.

~Phil Ershler

Off to Safari!  (Photo by Adam Angel)

Off to Safari! (Photo by Adam Angel)

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Shishapangma Team Summits!

October 4, 2011

Shishapangma.

Just talked to Mike Hamill on the sat phone.  Everyone summited the 8008m Central Summit of Shishapangma and are back to C3.  Now they are breaking down the camp and will continue descending today to one of the lower camps. He said the conditions today were difficult with lots of trailbreaking. Congrats to the climbers and sherpas, well done!

Eric Simonson

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Shishapangma Team Moves Forward

October 3, 2011

Shishapangma from near ABC

Mike Hamill reports by sat phone from Shishapangma that the weather is looking better and that the team is moving up to Camp 3 today, and the sherpas are also doing some fixing above Camp 3.  Hopefully tomorrow is decent weather and conditions, in which case they will take a shot at the summit!  We’ll keep you posted!

Eric Simonson

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Kili Summit!

October 3rd, 2011

Fourteen hours after leaving high camp and it’s all done.  Great weather, great climb, great summit and even better descent.  You can’t believe how much thicker the air is at 10,000 ft. when compared to what you’re breathing at 19,340 ft.  World of difference and so much warmer, too.  A beer or two, a nice meal and it’s pretty much ‘the sleep of the dead’.  After awakening, it’s just a few short downhill hours through lush rainforest to arrive at the Park entrance at the Mweka Gate.  For now, all the stress of the summit day is gone and sleep is in order.  Congratulations, team.”

~Phil Ershler

Pole Pole (slowly slowly) around the crater rim to Uhuru Point, The Roof of Africa.  (Photo by Adam Angel)

Pole Pole (slowly slowly) around the crater rim to Uhuru Point, The Roof of Africa. (Photo by Adam Angel)

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Still strong on Kilimanjaro

October 2nd, 2011

Just off the phone with Eben from our high camp at Barafu (15,100′) .  All is well.  It rained for 8 hours last night at Karanga, with thunderstorms, but is looking good today.  Early to bed tonight and early to rise for their shot at the summit.  The goal is to hit the crater rim as the sun crests the horizon.  Hard to describe with words; something you have to experience yourself!  They’ve put out a lot of energy getting to this point, but are in great shape and eager to keep pushing for the top.  Everything is ticking along perfectly and we look forward to hearing of their summit success soon.  Stay tuned!

~Adam Angel

Drawing the mountain closer with each step on the way to Barafu Camp at 15,100'. (Photo by Adam Angel)

Drawing the mountain closer with each step on the way to Barafu Camp at 15,100'. (Photo by Adam Angel)

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Another smooth day on Kilimanjaro.

October 1st, 2011

Just spoke with Eben Reckord from Karanga Camp at 13,500 ft.  Relatively easy day, no rain and skies are clear as they prepare for bed.  With a 7 day climbing itinerary, the move up to high camp tomorrow is fairly short.  Simply means that the team will be at high camp early in the afternoon and not tired from a long hike.  They’ll eat, hydrate and get to bed early.  My guess is that they’ll be on the summit so early that they’ll have to wait for the sunrise on Kilimanjaro.  Not bad – being on top and watching the sun come up over the Roof of Africa.

~Phil Ershler

Settling down for the night at Karanga Camp.  (Photo by Adam Angel)

Settling down for the night at Karanga Camp. (Photo by Adam Angel)

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