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Annapurna IV Team Closing In On Base Camp

April 17, 2012

Annapurna 2 and 4 from across the valley near Chulu Far East. The route to A4 Base Camp ascends the valley on the right, then climbs up to the left onto the prominent bench below the peaks. You can see the airstrip in the small town of Humre at the base of the mountains. (Photo: Mingma Sherpa)

IMG Leader Eben Reckord reports that the team is taking a rest day in Humre (11000 ft / 3350m) at the base of Annapurna 4.  This town is a great location for enjoying the views of the Chulu Peaks to the north, and the Annapurna peaks to the south. IMG Sherpas Phinjo and Pasang Tshering took a run up to Base Camp to survey the route.  They came back saying that there was several feet of fresh snow up there.  So, it will take a couple days to get everything up to the campsite.  In the meantime, the team is healthy and doing well with their acclimatization.

Eric Simonson

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Ama Dablam Team Getting Ready

April 16, 2012

Kami and Liam at the Ministry, with the Ama Dablam permit.

IMG leaders Liam O’Sullivan and Ang Chirring (Kami) Sherpa report that they got the official permit yesterday at the Ministry of Tourism.

Today they will finish the gear checks and final packing, with departure for Lukla scheduled for early tomorrow morning.

So far so good!

Eric Simonson

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Make Way For The Goats!

April 14, 2012

IMG guide Eben Reckord reports that the team’s first few days of trekking have gone well, and they are now in Bradang (2850m).  From Kathmandu the team drove west on the Pohkara road, a beautiful drive through central Nepal.  When they reached the Marsyangdi River Valley, they turned to the north, to Besisahar.  Then, from there, the road has been extended a bit further to Bulbule, which is now the trailhead.  Yesterday the team got a nice view of Manaslu.

Day one of the Annapurna trek. (Photo by Eben Reckord)
Actual road construction (Photo by Eben Reckord)

Eben says:  “it has been raining a ton in the afternoons and evenings, but we’ve managed for the most part to stay dry and out of the rain.   There has been a  lot of movement on the trail with donkeys, sheep, brahma bulls, chickens, mongooses and monkeys.  Today is Nepali New Year, so there are a lot of local people traveling to visit friends and celebrate. At one point we had to get out of the way of a whole herd of goats that was being herded down the trail!  Work continues on the road up to Chame.  Two days back we were asked to stay put by two soldiers while dynamite blasts cleared more of the road across the valley.  Needless to say it’s been an exciting walk in so far.  We hope to get to Humre tomorrow and base camp in just a few days.  The team is all happy and healthy and ready to get climbing”.

Eric Simonson

 

 

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Mt. Baker This Summer – Great Idea

April 12, 2012

Since Mt. Baker is relatively new to the IMG lineup let’s take a look at the spec sheet:

Height:*10, 781 (4th highest in WA).
Weight: This is an excellent question. First you take ∏ • r² (Pi times radius squared) to get the area of a circle. Next you take into account the density of water vs. magma…add in the massive snowfall (see record below)…carry the 1 and you come up with… climbing Baker is easier than math.
Record:  Undefeated. It is a volcano!
Official Record: *1140 inches of snowfall (1998-99).
Glaciers: *13. Covering 16 square miles.
First Climbed: *1868 (Edmund Thomas Coleman)
(*Source: US Forest Service)

Mt. Baker

Forget the math and join us on the Easton Glacier on Mt. Baker in the North Cascades. Whether you’re a first time climber or a seasoned veteran of the Pacific Northwest we’re certain you won’t be disappointed.

Dates
July 19-21, 2012
August 4-6, 2012 (one space left)
August 24-26, 2012 (three spaces left)

Landcost: $850 (includes guides, group gear, breakfasts & dinners – among other things).

Tye Chapman

 

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Stop Girl Trafficking In Nepal

April 11, 2012

For the past seven years, my wife, Sue, and I have been supporting the American Himalayan Foundation’s Stop Girl Trafficking program. IMG has been working in Nepal for a couple of decades now and cares deeply about the people there.  Trafficking is a huge problem.  Every year, as many as 20,000 girls from the poorest parts of Nepal are trafficked.  There is a way to help.

Education is the answer.

Education is the way…  This year the program supports 9,500 girls in 400 schools across Nepal and not one has been lost to trafficking.

If you live in the San Francisco area, we would love to invite you to attend the Stop Girl Trafficking evening on April 30.  Or, for info and reservations, call:  (415) 288-7250. If you don’t live in San Francisco learn more on how to give here.

Special guests include:
Siddharth Kara: the global perspective
Harvard Fellow and author of Sex Trafficking: Inside the Business of Modern Slavery

Dr. Aruna Uprety: the visionary
AHF’s partner in RHEST’s game-changing prevention work in Nepal

Jon Krakauer: the advocate, author
Fresh from an investigative field visit to the trafficking villages

Sue and I visited with Dr. Aruna and a group of the girls last May while we were in Nepal.  I can’t tell you how impressed we were.  It costs so little to give a girl a whole new life!

And, say hello to Sue while you’re at the dinner.

Phil Ershler

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Annapurna 4 Team Meets Liz Hawley, Hits The Road

April 11, 2012

IMG 2012 Annapurna 4 expedition team (L-R Joe, Emily, Eben, Miss Hawley, David, Jarno, Steve)

IMG leaders Eben Reckord and Emily Johnston report that the A4 team is now on their way to Besisahar.  Yesterday the team had the chance to meet Liz Hawley in person.  Liz is the original Himalayan historian. She has lived in Kathmandu and kept track of the climbers since 1960!

Nowadays it is normally her staff that interview the climbing teams, but Liz is always interested to meet, in-person, with teams going to adventurous places, and she was happy to see off the A4 climbers.  Liz told the team stories about Sir Edmund Hillary making it especially memorable for the team.

If you want the definitive record of Himalayan climbing, see her Himalayan Database.

Eric Simonson

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IMG Everest Teams Reach Base Camp

April 10, 2012

Everest Base Camp (photo: Ang Jangbu)

The 2012 IMG Everest teams are now arriving at Base Camp, after 12 days of trekking.  Check out our complete Everest Expedition coverage on the Everest page.

Eric Simonson

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Annapurna 4 team ready to go!

April 9, 2012

Eben presenting the Annapurna IV permit

IMG guide Eben Reckord did the briefing today at the Ministry, and received the official permit for Annapurna 4.

The team members have all arrived now in Kathmandu, with their luggage, which is always a good way to start a trip.  The Base Camp cooks and porters have now left Kathmandu for the trailhead with 60 loads of tents, fuel, food and supplies to start getting BC set up ahead of the expedition.  So, everything is looking good and the team is looking forward to starting the trek.

Their route will take them by bus to Besisahar ( the start of the Annapurna Circuit) and then to Bulbule, where they begin 8 days of trekking to Base Camp.  They will follow the main Annapurna route as far the small town of Humre (just before Manang), where they go up a side valley, and climb to the site of the Base Camp.

Eric Simonson

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Windy, Cooler Conditions Prevail On Whitney This Spring

April 9, 2012

A view at Mt. Whitney (photo: Becky Beamish)

The weather remained periodically windy and cooler than normal in the Eastern Sierra this spring.

Our record of success started to grow with the fourth and fifth Whitney climbs both racking up 100% successes. Then we just got word from the sixth and final Whitney team whose summit day was today. It was windy all last night and they got a late start for the summit today. Winds continued to gust as high as 50 mph today, and most of the team hiked up to Iceberg Lake, 11,300 feet before turning back due to the weather. They will descend all the way to Whitney Portal today, and have the option of going rock climbing in Owens River Gorge tomorrow on their final day.

So the record for this year was not stellar, but not too bad either:

Mt. Whitney #1 March 22-25, Summit!

Mt. Whitney #2 March 24-27, turned back at first camp due to weather, finished the trip with a day of ice climbing and a day of rock climbing.

Mt. Whitney #3 March 29-April 1, turned back just short of the summit at 14,000 feet due to high winds

Mt. Whitney #4 March 31-April 3, Summit!

Mt. Whitney #5 April 5-8, Summit!

Mt. Whitney #6 April 7-10, turned back at Iceberg Lake, 11,300 feet due to high winds.

For the record, we were 50% to the summit this year, which is by my reckoning the worst success rate we have ever had for these programs in the spring. We’ll hope for a return to the usual good Sierra weather next spring.

My sincere thanks to all who participated in the Whitney climbs this spring. What a fun time, I wouldn’t miss it for the world. I’ll hope to see you next year!

George Dunn

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Annapurna 4 Team Arriving In Kathmandu

April 7, 2012

Some of the loads of gear and food. (Photo by Eben Reckord)

IMG guide Eben Reckord reports that he made it to Kathmandu, with all his luggage, and that the other team members are also starting to arrive.  Eben and Pasang Tshering have the ministry briefing  scheduled for Sunday, April 8 (where we will receive the official permit).

A4 sirdar Phinjo and cook Pasang Nuri have finished the final shopping  and packing, and now have about 60 loads ready to go to A4 Base Camp.  Tomorrow Pasang Nuri and Sante Tamang will leave Kathmandu with these loads by bus, along with 20 porters, for Besisahar. These men will start on the trail to BC, with the balance of their loads going by mules from Bulbule.

The plan is all starting to come together now!

Eric Simonson

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