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Mt. Bona Team Takes Another Shot At C2

April 23, 2012

Mt. Bona (photo: Mark Allen)

George called this morning from Base Camp on Mt. Bona where the team is preparing to head out in an attempt to find a route up to Camp 2 today.  Yesterday their efforts to carry to Camp 2 were frustrated as they couldn’t find a viable route up the glacier.

If all goes well today they’ll make the carry to Camp 2 today and move up to their camp tomorrow.

George said that the weather was good; a little colder than normal with a few light snow showers in between the sunshine.

We’ll wish the team the best on successful navigation and hope the weather keeps holding!

Clarissa Morford

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Annapurna 4 Team Fixes To Camp 1

April 23, 2012

The buttress to Camp 1 and Camp 2 (Mingma Dorje Sherpa)

IMG guide Eben Reckord reports that IMG sherpas Phinjo and Thunang Bote finished fixing to Camp 1 today, while Eben, Emily, and the A4 team ferried loads to the bottom of the buttress.

Tomorrow, if the weather looks OK, they hope to all move up to Camp 1, leaving their cook Pasang Nuri and assistant Sante Tamang to hold down the fort at Base Camp while they are up on the hill.

Eben says everyone in the team is doing well, and getting well acclimatized.  They are ready to start climbing!

Eric Simonson

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‘Maida’s Mountaineers’ Trekking to EBC

April 22, 2012

Jerry Maida Everest group in Kathmandu

IMG guide “LTC” Jenni Fogle reports from Kathmandu that after a few rest days, she is getting ready to fly back into Khumbu.  For this next trek to Everest BC, she will be leading a custom group that we put together for Jerry Maida and his friends.  The group ranges in age from 25 to 69 with both experienced trekkers and new ones. The team is comprised of Tim, an estate trusts attorney from FL; Rita, a family personal assistant and HIV/Health counselor; James, a heavy equipment mechanic from CA; Elizabeth (Doll) a lasik eye surgeon and runner from GA; Grace, an investment banker from WV; Susan, a prosecutor from WA; Skeets, a retired insurance executive from FL; Robin, a marathoner and volunteer from NY; Brewster, an insurance salesman from CT; Kurt, a financial advisor from NJ; Katherine, a college student from FL; and Jerry, a lasik surgeon and spectacular organizer from FL.

Working with Jenni is Lobsang Sherpa.  It sounds like a fun group, and there should be lots of good dinner conversation!.  We’ll look forward to tracking their progress as they head on to Base Camp.

Eric Simonson

Update (6:59am): We just heard that all members and luggage now have reached Lukla, and they have started trekking!

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Annapurna 4 Climbers Reach Base Camp

April 20, 2012

Annapurna 4 Base Camp. (Photo by Mingma Sherpa)

IMG Leader Eben Reckord reports that the team had an adventurous trip to A4 Base Camp (15,550 ft/4740m), accompainied by donkeys and porters.  Sounds like they had to practice their cowboy skills too, helping the local herders keep the critters going in the right direction!

The sherpa team already had the BC all set up for their arrival, and they were glad to finally get there.  The plan is to take a rest day tomorrow, then go for a hike the following day to recon the route to Camp 1.  Weather has been good and the snow that fell last week has been cooking, so the conditions are improving.

Eric Simonson

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Food Coma, Cricket & A Yeti Head

April 20, 2012

IMG leader Liam O”Sullivan reports that the team had a great time in the Namche area, and managed some nice acclimatization hikes:

“All is going well. The weather has been fantastic! After trekking from Phakding (8,600′) to Namche (11,300′) on Day 2, we completed a nice leisurely training hike yesterday. First we hit the “Everest View” viewpoint of Everest, Lhotse, and of course, Ama Dablam! It was spectacular and there were many hoots and hollers as we rounded the bend in the trail and saw all the peaks. After numerous pictures, we made our way toward the village of Khumjung (12,400′), home of our Sirdar (the lead trekking guide) Phu Tashi, where we were treated to yet another large meal which resulted in a noon nap (food coma) at the restaurant. After playing catch with a few of the local schoolboys with Ama Dablam rising above in the distance, we toured the local school before heading up to the monastery, where after a small donation we were treated to seeing a bona fide Yeti head!

The team with Ama Dablam in the background.
Sherpa children playing cricket.

After recovering from the excitement of that, we headed over to Khunde (12,600′). Here we visited the largest hospital in the region and spoke with one of the hospital’s two doctors. He is on call all the time! The hospital has four satellite clinics in the Khumbu, each in different valleys, with his catchment area extending all the way down to Phakding, where we stayed the first night of the trek. He reports his patients are wonderful, especially his pregnant patients who uniformly make their appointments, sometimes having to walk many miles uphill at elevation to make it to the hospital. We then made our way back down towards Namche, stopping by the Sherpa Museum along the way, where we were treated to pictures of every single Sherpa who has ever summited Everest, including a choice shot of our own co-leader, Kami. We reached the hotel happy to take off our boots and sit down for some yak sizzler and another ferocious card game of Hearts!”

Eric Simonson

 

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Alaska!

April 20, 2012

Alaska!

After eaking out a day of cragging, on rock just dry enough, I turned my attention to packing for IMG’s expedition to Mt. Bona.  The weather in the Cascades has been shifty this week, lamb-like then lion, reminding me to prepare for a wide span of conditions in the larger mountain range of the Wrangell-St. Elias.  From the pile of gear on the basement floor, I sifted out puffy jackets, overboots, high calorie toe warming snacks and, then, sunscreen, a zinc stick and the most paper-thin UV resisting shell I could find.  As I wrangled my -20 degree F sleeping bag into a tight compression sack, the rising cry of a fire truck siren met my ear from a distant arterial street.  I wondered what the emergency could be- something serious or just a minor accident?  I worried about whether the traffic was bad on the interstate, I needed to do some errands.  My phone buzzed on the counter with an incoming text, I should look at it, the phone won’t stop buzzing until I do.  The irritating, “beep, beep, beep” of a service truck in reverse banged at my head.  I checked the text and noticed another new email, something else demanding my time and attention, and there were so many other emails I needed to attend to… And then, I thought, “I cannot wait to get to the mountain.”

Our lives are easily overrun by the machinations of modern society, leaving us harried and distracted.  I have found that I easily “brown out” when too many devices and demands simultaneously require attention, when the flow of life paces at 80 miles an hour on the interstate, when the cacophony of the urban matrix reaches its crescendo.  Wild places offer us solace in large part because they allow us to slow down and attend to a distilled set of basic needs.  And, Alaska, with its abundant wildness, offers ample opportunity for such reprieve.  For this reason, my mind settles peacefully at the thought of Mt. Bona.  It’s just going to be us, our packs and sleds, and the embrace of enormous mountains.  We’ll spend our time marveling at the beauty, exercising our bodies, establishing camps, moving up the glacier, feeding ourselves, sleeping plenty and enjoying the camaraderie of the only seven people around.

Fast forward to today… Here we are, driving down the GlenAllen highway, with the Chugach Range on the right, the Alaska Range to the north, and a vanload of personalities in the back.  So far, the trip is off to a great start. The weather is sunny and pleasant, we’re moving on schedule, and the crew looks like they’re going to gel fantastically. Hopefully, we’re able to fly onto the glacier this afternoon! Signing off until our first check in from the mountain!

Erica Engle

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Hey, Where’s Your Parka?

April 19, 2012

Richard Harvey put together this poem after our most recent Denali Prep Seminar on Mt. Rainier. Pretty cool stuff!

Enjoy the read.

Tye Chapman

Richard and Co. at The Flats on Mt. Rainier.

Hey, Where’s your Parka?
By Richard Harvey

As the moon came up and the sun went down
We eyed each other up and dreamt of the snow
Anxious but keen each went through their stuff
Name, rank and something interesting Tapp wanted to know

The guides stripped our bags of luxury and comfort
Even while the rental signature was still wet with ink
“Only take one pair of undies” he insisted without smiling
“When I’m finished with you, we’re all gonna stink”

So we crept in the bunkhouse and waited for dawn
The chill outside grew suddenly sharper
We hoped we were prepared but only time would tell
Some still received the drill “Hey, where’s your Parka?”

So we loaded the kit and took to the powder
The further we got the silence grew louder
To camp one we made haste grunting with sleds
Full of fuel “not with the food”, stoves, wands and who knows what chowder

That night we fed well on IMG’s marvels
We thought life is good, Denali’ll be easy
They set up two heads and the circus was pitched
It was then that the blue bags started to itch

Up the snowfield higher and higher
To Muir one step at a time
Breath getting shorter
We continued to climb

Ice Station Zebra came into view
Into the freezing pit we crawled
Unknowing that the next days
Even our toothpaste wouldn’t even get thawed

Patience slowly ebbed in that frozen wasteland
Zeus’s breath blew blizzards filling every crack and pit
We hunkered down and learnt of each others worlds
Some were sombre, others full of twisted wit

But we braved the elements and learnt the trade
Our masterful guides provided their best
Knots and anchors, crevasse rescue came next
And some of us received our first airborne arrests

On the nights when the wind blew white and relentless
Tapp’s steely eyes filled us with stories of terror and wonder
“On Denali Hexadecamethabiozanethanodiamox is the one you’ll need…”
We knew he was right when the Doctor silently agreed

Each day our clothes grew increasingly wet
No doubt these were the toughest guides we’d ever met
But the days of pain continued to get longer
And the howling winds grew hauntingly stronger

Day by day the toilet paper ran low
Some dreamt of frolicking ladies far below
During stories of Kashmir some tended feet beginning to swell
While the military guys made notes to take back to intel

And then Tapp gave the news
“Bring your clothes, every last one, we’re going for the top”
Adrenaline pumping, our nerves never sharper
We double checked out stuff “Hey, where’s your Parka?”

Predawn we crunched, traversing the ice
Except the more nervous, all silent as mice
But in the end the freezing, circling blizzard
And avalanche danger kicked our hopes in the gizzards

Back down we descended
Past Ingraham’s icy jaws and crevasses
The guides kept our spirits high with
Klemheists, Autoblocks and lashes

The Fahrenheit plummeted into the singles
Strangers came to give us their angles
We bonded playing cards late into the night
Citizen Cope warmed our hearts like a flicker of light

We knew things outside were getting bad
When Ershler was thwarted and our cookies turned back
So we hunkered down and shivered and shook
And wished that just one of us had bought a book

Then a hint of blue painted the zenith
We took to fixed lines and dug pits in the snow
And built a boys dream and all crammed in a snow cave
Smiling and happy, all dug with unbelievable gusto

And finally our bittersweet moment came to depart
To Paradise and showers and (thankfully) no more talk of South Park
We ran, slid and fell, just getting our way down
The guides skiing making us all look like clowns

As we spotted Tye we all started to grin
We knew that we’d made it and were close to the gin
Through the burgers, beers and our Copper Creek laughter
We could still here our leader’s echo calling
“Hey, where’s your Parka?”

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Annapurna 4 Team Moving To Base Camp

April 19, 2012

 

 

IMG Annapurna 4 team (David, Emily, Jarno, Joe, Eben) near Manang, with Annapurna 2 and 4 in the background (photo-Eben Reckord)

IMG guides Eben Reckord and Emily Johnston report from Humre that the A4 team is doing well:   “For starters the weather is seeming to make a change for the better.  After five days of rain we have now had three days of sunshine in a row.  We’ve had a chance to dry our gear out and recharge our batteries.  On Tuesday the Sherpas made a trail to BC through lingering winter snow and yeterday the donkeys carried all the gear necessary for our expedition to Base Camp.  That’s great news for our team and a huge relief.  The team have been resting, training and acclimatizing in and around Humre and Manang. We received a blessing from the local lama and had time to enjoy a fine Italian Lattes made with frothed powdered milk in Manang.  Along with taking in the sights and building up our red blood cells, we have been getting our climbing systems dialed in.  The team continues to stay healthy and is looking forward to making our way to Base Camp.

Wish us luck!

Eben Reckord

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Ama Dablam Team Reaches Namche

April 18, 2012

The Ama Dablam team at the beginning of the trek in Lukla ( Left to right Eric, Ingrid, Solveig, Natalie, Chris, Ted, Liam)

IMG Ama Dablam leader Liam O’Sullivan reports that the team has now reached Namche, and that everything is going well for them.  They will take several days in Namche, for acclimatization, before heading on up the valley.

Meanwhile, Kami Sherpa is heading up to Ama Dablam Base Camp to start working on the route and getting the camps set up.  Liam and the climbers will proceed slowly up to Everest BC for acclimatization, then climb Lobuche Peak, before heading over to Ama Dablam.  After 10 expeditions to Ama Dablam, we know that it is super critical to get the team well acclimatized.  Ama Dablam is one of those peaks on which it is easy to get too high, too fast!

Eric Simonson

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Ama Dablam Team On The Trail

April 17, 2012

IMG guide Liam O’Sullivan reports that the Ama Dablam team successfully flew to Lukla today, and had a nice trek to Phakding, down by the river.

On the trail to Phakding. (Photo by Eric Simonson)
Carved rock boulders on the way to Phakding.

Along the way they passed through the small village of Ghat, which is remembered by trekkers as the site of many chortens, mani stone walls, prayer wheels, and boulders painted with Tibetan mantras.  Quite the interesting place!

Eric Simonson

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