April 10, 2012
Everest Base Camp (photo: Ang Jangbu)
The 2012 IMG Everest teams are now arriving at Base Camp, after 12 days of trekking. Check out our complete Everest Expedition coverage on the Everest page.
Eric Simonson
April 9, 2012
Eben presenting the Annapurna IV permit
IMG guide Eben Reckord did the briefing today at the Ministry, and received the official permit for Annapurna 4.
The team members have all arrived now in Kathmandu, with their luggage, which is always a good way to start a trip. The Base Camp cooks and porters have now left Kathmandu for the trailhead with 60 loads of tents, fuel, food and supplies to start getting BC set up ahead of the expedition. So, everything is looking good and the team is looking forward to starting the trek.
Their route will take them by bus to Besisahar ( the start of the Annapurna Circuit) and then to Bulbule, where they begin 8 days of trekking to Base Camp. They will follow the main Annapurna route as far the small town of Humre (just before Manang), where they go up a side valley, and climb to the site of the Base Camp.
Eric Simonson
April 9, 2012
A view at Mt. Whitney (photo: Becky Beamish)
The weather remained periodically windy and cooler than normal in the Eastern Sierra this spring.
Our record of success started to grow with the fourth and fifth Whitney climbs both racking up 100% successes. Then we just got word from the sixth and final Whitney team whose summit day was today. It was windy all last night and they got a late start for the summit today. Winds continued to gust as high as 50 mph today, and most of the team hiked up to Iceberg Lake, 11,300 feet before turning back due to the weather. They will descend all the way to Whitney Portal today, and have the option of going rock climbing in Owens River Gorge tomorrow on their final day.
So the record for this year was not stellar, but not too bad either:
Mt. Whitney #1 March 22-25, Summit!
Mt. Whitney #2 March 24-27, turned back at first camp due to weather, finished the trip with a day of ice climbing and a day of rock climbing.
Mt. Whitney #3 March 29-April 1, turned back just short of the summit at 14,000 feet due to high winds
Mt. Whitney #4 March 31-April 3, Summit!
Mt. Whitney #5 April 5-8, Summit!
Mt. Whitney #6 April 7-10, turned back at Iceberg Lake, 11,300 feet due to high winds.
For the record, we were 50% to the summit this year, which is by my reckoning the worst success rate we have ever had for these programs in the spring. We’ll hope for a return to the usual good Sierra weather next spring.
My sincere thanks to all who participated in the Whitney climbs this spring. What a fun time, I wouldn’t miss it for the world. I’ll hope to see you next year!
George Dunn
April 7, 2012
Some of the loads of gear and food. (Photo by Eben Reckord)
IMG guide Eben Reckord reports that he made it to Kathmandu, with all his luggage, and that the other team members are also starting to arrive. Eben and Pasang Tshering have the ministry briefing  scheduled for Sunday, April 8 (where we will receive the official permit).
A4 sirdar Phinjo and cook Pasang Nuri have finished the final shopping and packing, and now have about 60 loads ready to go to A4 Base Camp. Tomorrow Pasang Nuri and Sante Tamang will leave Kathmandu with these loads by bus, along with 20 porters, for Besisahar. These men will start on the trail to BC, with the balance of their loads going by mules from Bulbule.
The plan is all starting to come together now!
Eric Simonson
April 6, 2012
Annapurna IV (Photo by Brad Clement)
What makes Annapurna 4 different?
Annapurna may be new to IMGs line up but this isn’t the first time IMG has run an expedition to this mountain.  In 1987 Eric Simonson & Craig John and a few adventurous clients made it to 7000m on the peak, but we’re forced off the mountain due to a massive snow storm.
Twenty five years later, that trip continues. Now, I can’t say exactly what the last 500m to the summit will be like, so I’m excited that there is an element of the unknown with this peak for everybody. Without a doubt we all are as prepared as we could ever be; we’ve read all there is to read and studied the pictures, we’ve even gone on google maps to simulate the climb, but unlike many of the other peaks I’ve climbed, I can honestly say I don’t know exactly what will be around the corner.  It definitely presents a great guiding challenge, and the opportunity to go where very few people have ever been before. Though their footsteps are long gone, I’m excited to retrace those of Eric and Craig. This is going to be a great adventure for all involved.
What are you looking forward to most?
Four years ago I sat in a tent at Karanga camp on Kilimanjaro listening Craig John talk about his attempt on Annapurna IV in 1987. He talked passionately about the brilliant ridge climbing and described it as one of the most beautiful peaks he’d ever been on. I have to admit that I was a little embaressed because though I had walked the Annapurna circuit two years prior to hearing Craig talk about A4 I couldnt place the peak mentally. Everything is so big over there that I spent my entire time just in awe. Fast forward a few years to last fall when I lead IMGs first expedition to Chulu West along the Annapurna circuit. This time I was on the lookout during our approach to Chulu, not yet knowing I’d be leading the Annapurna IV trip. We we’re able to spend a couple days walking along side and underneath Annapurna IV. CJ was right, the mountain was beautiful. I didn’t know when it was going to happen, but I told myself one day I would be back to guide A4. The stars aligned, Simo gave me a call, and as I type this email to Tye, I’m sitting at SEATAC on my way. Pretty cool stuff.
What kind of climb are you expecting?
The research we’ve done tells me we’re looking at a very exciting climb. To start, we’ve got a seven day trek into base camp, which offers some of the most incredible views and interesting trekking terrain I’ve ever experienced. After we acclimitize at base camp, our first objective will be to get through the 1000ft. rock band that will give us access to the ridge and our first camp.  From Camp 1 we are looking at navigating our way up the ridge where we will be met with moderate rolling terrain with the potential for some short sections of steep climbing. I anticipate this to be magnificent! From there on up to camp three we will have to find a way over the bergschrund (a very large crevasse formed from the top of the glacier pulling away from the mountain).  Once we get past the “schrund” we’ll be weaving our way across the top of the ridge where we may trade the fixed lines for more traditional glacier travel to reach C3. From there I think we will be using a mix of fixed lines and traditional glacier travel with the possibility of a little bit of rock before reaching the summit at 24,700ft.   A little bit of everything and I can’t wait.
Eben Reckord
April 4, 2012
With the Rainier season fast approaching I recently found myself re-reading Dee Molenaar’s The Challenge Of Rainier and I came across a poem written by former Chief Guide Clark Schurman that is worth sharing.
Into the cloud-sea far below
I, lonely, watched the red sun go,
Then turning, miracle of glad surprise,
Enchanted, saw a full moon rise.
———
Get those workouts in and we’ll see you this summer!
Tye Chapman
April 3, 2012
Stanford University recently published a study about ibuprofen and its possible prevention of acute mountain sickness (AMS). We asked our resident ER Doc/guide, Dr. Emily Johnston, to weigh in. Below is her summation of the article.
—————-
Summit of Everest - May 2008. (Photo by Dean Smith)
If you’re planning a trip to altitude in the near future, you may have heard about a recently published study from Stanford University that took a look at ibuprofen as a medication to prevent acute mountain sickness. While this is potentially exciting news, and it does make sense physiologically, there are a few caveats:
1) The ‘n’ (number of subjects) in this study was relatively small, with 86 participants. Larger studies, in the future, may help confirm the effectiveness of ibuprofen for prevention of acute mountain sickness (AMS).
2) While ibuprofen is a commonly used medication, available without a prescription, it can still have significant side effects including kidney failure (worse with dehydration), bleeding of the gastrointestinal tract, and platelet and white blood cell dysfunction, which may alter your body’s ability to stop bleeding or ward off infection, amongst other things.
3) Sometimes we see an “if some is good, then more is better”
mentality with nonprescription medications. Remember to always follow the dosage guidelines provided with the over-the-counter medications that you buy, and read and heed the warnings.
It would be great if such a commonly used, generally safe and accessible medication is truly effective against AMS. This study is very encouraging, stay tuned for more information. And remember, people have been climbing mountains without medications for hundreds of years. While meds are great to have, when needed, they’re not a magic bullet for getting to the top. Nothing replaces careful physical and mental preparation. So keep on hitting the trail, or the gym, and get ready to enjoy your climb.
No one ever failed to summit because they were too strong!
Dr. Emily Johnston
April 1, 2012
The Notch (Photo by Tye Chapman)
George checked in after a rough climb of Mt. Whitney this weekend with a report of increasingly high winds (60mph) and cold weather which turned the team around just below the notch (14,000ft) on summit day. And upon arrival back at camp, things didn’t get much better – the winds picked up so much that the team opted to pack it up, get out of dodge, and get back to Lone Pine. A long day for sure, but the safe decision sometimes requires more work than you’d like.
Climb #4 is moving up to high camp today with hopes of some better weather (read moderate winds).
Tye Chapman
March 30, 2012
Almost There. (Photo by George Dunn)
Or in this case two words, “Almost There”, because that’s all we got out of George this afternoon. It’s either ‘stoic mountain guide talk’ or George not wanting to type on his phone (my guess is the latter) but hey we’ll take it.
From the looks of it they’re closing in on their camp just below Iceberg Lake on Day 2 of their Whitney climb. The weather looks great and if all goes as planned they’ll wake up early tomorrow morning and give it a go.
Tye Chapman
March 30, 2012
In classic George Dunn fashion we got an “all is s well” message after Day 1 of George’s current climb on Whitney, and not another word.
However, I’ll give George a ton of credit for snapping this photo in the morning and attaching it to his, albeit brief, text message last night.
Team Photo At The Whitney Portal. (Photo by George Dunn)
Tye Chapman
