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JanSport Emmons Team Shutdown But Happy

June 13, 2012

DC Team having a Matrix moment

IMG Guide Eben Reckord called from Camp Schurman this morning to report that they were shutdown at roughly 12,500ft. They awoke to sustained winds nearing 30mph and they only increased as the team moved higher on the mountain. When they turned around the winds were estimated at ~60mph, just too stiff to climb. Everybody is back at camp, likely napping, lounging and swapping stories from previous outdoor adventures.

Just over a mile away (as the crow flies) is the DC Team, led by George Dunn, at the Ingraham Flats. They’re settling into their tents for their summit attempt tonight.  Relatively high winds are forecasted again so we’ll just wait and see how the team does…

More tomorrow.

Tye Chapman

 

 

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JanSport Teams Moving Strong

June 12, 2012

IMG Guide Eben Reckord reports that all is well on the NE side of Mt. Rainier. The team had a good climb to their first camp yesterday and are now en route to Camp Schurman (9500ft) where they’ll rest up this afternoon and this evening before their summit attempt in the morning.

Emmons Team En Route
DC Team Ready To Go
DC Team Dinner at the Paradise Inn

Over on the south side of Mt. Rainier the DC team just finished up a nice breakfast at the Paradise Inn and are currently en route to Camp Muir (10,000ft) where they’ll spend the night before heading up to the Ingraham Flats tomorrow afternoon. If all goes as planned they’ll head for the top on Thursday morning.

A little bump in the weather today, but the forecast is calling for some better weather the rest of the week… time will tell.

Tye Chapman

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JanSport Climb Kicks Off In Good Form

June 11, 2012

When the JanSport team pulled into the parking lot yesterday it marked the official start to the 40th JanSport Climb of Mt. Rainier. The hustle and bustle of the gear check, the rental department pillaging, and the general organized chaos that is the start to every climb quickly ensued. It always sorts itself out, as is did yesterday.

Mt. Rainier
Emmons Team Breakfast

DC Team Having Dinner
DC Team at Paradise for Mountain Day School

By 4:30 half the crew was loaded up and headed over to the Alpine Inn at Crystal Mountain to have dinner and stay the night before their climb via the Emmons Route.  Shortly thereafter, the Disappointment Cleaver Team loaded up and headed to the Wildberry for dinner before heading on up to the Paradise Inn for the night.

Today, the Emmons team is en route to Camp 1 while the DC team is at Paradise for a Mountain Day School. Their climb, led by George Dunn, will start tomorrow.

Tye Chapman

 

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Juneuary Continues On Mt. Rainier

June 9, 2012

Mt. Rainier National Park Webcam (June 9, 2012)

Another rough weather pattern has settled on Mt. Rainier the past week or ten days bringing with it a good amount of snow and wind. Our team at Camp Muir hung tight overnight and is hunkered down for another night.They’re dug in, warm and relatively dry.

Down lower on the mountain is our first Kautz climb of the season, led by Max Bunce. They played it safe today and pulled up short of where they were going to camp.  Plenty to do: 1.) set up a bomber camp 2.) use the weather and surrounding terrain to train 3.) stay warm and dry – or as warm and dry as possible.

Despite the marginal weather, all is well on Mt. Rainier.

Tye Chapman

 

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FAQ #37: What Boots Are Sufficient For Rainier?

June 7, 2012

What boots will you wear?

Every year “the boot question” comes up and every year we break the hearts of people who haven’t read the boot FAQ section when they show up here in May/June to climb Mt. Rainier in their shiny, brand new, ‘single boots’ and we tell them they can’t wear them. So, in the spirit of the new Rainier season and the low freezing levels this week we’ll revisit the most frequently asked question:

Here is IMG’s thinking:

For a first time climb of Mt. Rainier, you want to be as well prepared as possible. That means warm, waterproof boots. Double plastic boots provide the best possible warmth for your feet, they are completely waterproof, and they don’t constrict your toes or ankles when worn with crampons attached. First time climbers will do well to choose double plastic boots, and IMG makes this simple by offering them for rent. We also strongly recommend double plastic boots in early summer (May and June) for all participants and we REQUIRE them on winter programs.

There are some very warm, insulated, waterproof synthetic or leather single climbing boots on the market these days. If you own a pair of single climbing boots (generally less than ten years old) and have used them successfully in cold weather environments previously, then single boots will probably work for you on Mt. Rainier.

There are a number of manufacturers who make very good climbing boots these days.

Here are some of the requirements your boots must possess:

  • Must be fully rigid or ¾ rigid shank soled.
  • Must be factory treated waterproof leather or synthetic waterproof
  • Must have synthetic insulation
  • Must be crampon compatible

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Logan Team Back Stateside

June 4, 2012


View Larger Map

IMG Guide Mark Allen and team made it down to the ‘landing strip’ on Mt. Logan last Friday and were flown off about an hour later by our good friend and Alaska bush pilot, Paul Claus.

All are safely back in the United States of America after battling the harsh conditions and brutally cold weather that Mt. Logan threw at them.  No summit, but a phenomenal effort by all!

Tye Chapman

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Logan Team In The ‘Ping Pong Ball’

May 31, 2012

A typical camp on Mt. Logan

Mark called in with an update on the Logan team. After a rest day to recover from their previous efforts on the upper mountain, they started the descent from Camp 4 at 10am on Thursday May 29, heading down to Camp 3 and their cache of supplies there. Conditions were not great, it was pretty much white-out with 5 foot visibility [note reference to ping pong ball in title] and 20mph winds. Definitely navigating by compass and gps! The group made it to Camp 3 at 4110m and due to a shift in the winds, had to rebuild their camp walls before setting up camp.Mark says the guides provided tent door service to the group for dinner that night. Everyone worked hard! Currently it is windy, snowing and poor visibility.

The group will sit tight until conditions improve, then will continue their descent to the pickup site. The good news is they are now out of the worst of the weather; they have plenty of food and fuel and the team is all healthy. They’ll continue to wait for the good weather and will be in position to capitalize on it when it comes.

George Dunn

UPDATE May 31 @2:30pm: Mark called in this afternoon to report improving conditions allowing them to continue downhill.  Their goal is C1 if the weather holds.

P.S. Happy Birthday to Sven’s father!

 

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Smooth Sailing On Mt. Rainier

May 29, 2012

IMG lead guide Jenni Fogle called in from the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning at 9:30am as they started back down from the summit. The team topped out earlier in the morning, with 100% success! The weather isn’t absolutely perfect but it is good enough to summit. Jenni reported high cirrus clouds overhead, a lower cloud layer below 8,000 feet, and 30 mph winds on the summit. A great day for a summit and it looks like our summit teams are back on track in reaching the top.

My congratulations to the entire team!

George Dunn

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Stormy Weather On Mt. Logan

May 29, 2012

Lead guide Mark Allen called in at 1:30 p.m. PDT with a report on the team’s progress today. Unfortunately, it looks like the team will start their descent tomorrow without tagging the summit. The team established a high camp over Prospector’s Col on the summit plateau two days ago. They were one day and 7 kilometers short of the summit. However, a report of approaching severe weather was the deciding factor for them to descend back down a camp back to Camp 4 at 16,000 feet. The weather moved in a day early, and they spent the day of May 28 navigating down the mountain in high winds, cold temps and white out conditions. All made it safe and sound back to Camp 4. It doesn’t look like a second push for the summit is possible for the team. The team is taking a day of rest today to rehydrate and stock up on food. They will start their descent tomorrow. They’ll drop down to Camp 3 to pick up a cache of food, and will continue to descend to the landing site on the glacier by Thursday evening. Weather is expected to continue to be poor for the next two days, but Mark says it isn’t as bad now they are below the worst of the winds.  With a bit of luck with the weather , the team could be picked up as early as Friday morning for the flight off the  mountain.

Spirits remain high, the team did the best they possibly could, there just wasn’t a decent weather window for them to summit in. Mark reports that to date, they have had three good weather days during the trip which landed on the mountain on May 15. Tough luck, but my congratulations to the team for a solid effort.

George Dunn

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Success On Mt. Bona!

May 29, 2012

After 100% success to the top of Mt. Bona on May 26, the entire team descended the mountain on May 27. They had hoped to summit nearby Mt. Churchill before descending, but whiteout conditions prevented them from an attempt. Instead, they descended to their base camp and were flown off the mountain the very next morning. Talk about a quick trip down the mountain! I’ve been in touch with trip leader Sheldon Kerr who is flying home from Anchorage today, and will look forward to hearing her full report on the trip.

My congratulations to the entire team for a job very well done!

George Dunn

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