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Manaslu Climbers Waiting At Base Camp

September 17, 2012

View of Manaslu from base camp, with the east spire in the foreground of the summit (Mike Hamill)
Chris and Geir climb a steep slope just below C1 (Mike Hamill)

We are waiting at Base Camp for the weather to improve before heading up the mountain for our second rotation. We have had several days of rain and snow now, so hopefully it will start drying out soon!  Our goal for this next rotation is to spend 4 nights on the mountain with the first night being at C1 (18,900ft), the 2nd and 3rd nights at C2 (20,820ft), and the final night at C3 (22,600ft) depending on how the team is feeling and weather permitting. The route has been fixed up to C3 and there is a plan in place to fix rope to the summit over the next week or so.  The team is all happy and healthy and excited to get back on the mountain. We have been filling the down time with card games, hot showers, laundry and eating Kaji’s great food.

Mike Hamill

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From The Top Of Africa

September 16, 2012

Watching the sunrise. (Ken Maclaurin)

Good news last evening (Seattle time) from Africa.  IMG Senior Guide, Chris Meder, called me from the top of Africa.  The group was standing on the summit!  Obviously, great news.  Summit day on Kilimanjaro is tough.  It’s an early morning start and a long, steady pull to the crater.  It takes guts and determination to make it happen.  Our congratulations to the crew.  With luck, we should hear from the gang once they’re down to Mweka Camp.  They’ll return to high camp at Barafu, eat, pack and have a short rest, before heading to 10,000 ft and Mweka Camp.  Not easy but absolutely the right thing to do.  Get down the land of thicker air.

Phil Ershler

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Manaslu Climbers Back To Base Camp

September 14, 2012

Mike Hamill reports that the team all made it back to Base Camp after their trip up to Camp 2.  Now they have a couple well-earned rest days to look forward to.  Timing is good, because we may have a bit of bad weather coming.

Camp 1 (Phunuru Sherpa)
Base Camp (Phunuru Sherpa)

The plan for the second acclimatization is for the team to head back up to Camp 1 on Sunday, and then on to Camp 2, and then eventually up to Camp 3 (weather permitting).  We’ll just have to see how it goes—staying flexible is always a big part of 8000m peak climbing.

Eric Simonson

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Kili Team On The Trail

September 13, 2012

Kili Team at the hotel.

IMG Senior Guide, Chris Meder, “emailed” from the Machame Camp at 10000 ft on the side of Kilimanjaro yesterday.  First day on the trail is now complete.  A bit of light rain but so light they didn’t even need their Gore-tex.  Today, they break out of the forest and head for the Shira Plateau.

Phil Ershler

 

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2013 Rainier Dates Released

It’s official, our 2013 dates have been released and with just 8 climbers and 4 guides on each climb, the spots go fast!

Quite a view from the upper mountain. (Eric Remza)

Let’s cut to the chase:

Winter & Denali Prep Seminars: Literally a prerequisite for Denali. 4 experienced guides, 8 climbers, 6.5 days of learning/training/climbing and generally getting your butt kicked by the winter weather. This program is for you if your eyes are on Denali or you’re just looking for a winter challenge. Included in the price of the program is lodging for your first night in Ashford and all breakfasts and dinners on the mountain. What a deal!

Kautz Route: Sweet climbs for the climber with a little (or a lot) of climbing experience. This is the best option for those who’d like to return to Rainier to attempt a different, slightly more challenging route.  1 day traversing the south side of Mt. Rainier, 1 day climbing the Turtle Snowfield, Summit day up the Kautz Ice Chute and 1 day down to the parking lot. Back for a late lunch at The Copper Creek on the 4th day.

3.5 Day Disappointment Cleaver Route: A great introduction to Mt. Rainier and mountaineering in general. Half-day of orientation and gear checks. 1 day to Camp Muir (10,000ft), 1 day training at Camp Muir and moving to High Camp at the Ingraham Flats (11,000ft) and 1 summit & back down day. Heck we’ll throw in some pancakes and bacon at Camp Muir!

4.5 Day Emmons Route: Another great introduction to Mt. Rainier and mountaineering in general. Maybe just a little tougher than the 3.5 day climb but the extra day on the mountain makes up for it. 2 days to Camp Schurman (9500ft), 1 summit day and 1 day back to the trailhead. A perfect climb for the fit individual looking for a little more adventure.

For the more experienced climbers we have more technical programs like the Fuhrer Finger Route and Liberty Ridge.

Additional Courses include: Little Tahoma Seminar, Glacier Skills Seminars, Mountain Day Schools, Advanced Mountain Day Schools and Crevasse Rescue schools are popular programs for climbers looking to get a grasp of the basic skills needed to pursue climbs on their own.

———————————————————-

Signing up is simple:

1.) The website is not real time so call/email the office to check availability. (360)569-2609/office@mountainguides.com

2.)  Carefully read, execute and submit the PDF docIMG Mt. Rainier Application Forms and Payment Information (PDF). This is the only way to apply for and secure your position on the program.

Please Note: Your position is not confirmed until all properly executed forms and application fees have been received and reviewed at the IMG office in Ashford, WA. If within 48 hours of submitting the Application Forms you have not received an IMG confirmation email, please contact our office to confirm we have received all of your information.

Got a group? No problem:

1.) Assign a point person to do the leg work of rallying the troops to fill out the forms, etc.
2.) Call office to check availability
3.) Submit all forms/payment on same day or all together at once.
4.) due to the volume of calls and reservations we receive, we cannot ‘hold’ or ‘pencil in’ any spots.

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Manaslu Climbers Tag Camp 2

September 12, 2012

Trekking to Manaslu BC (Lobsang Sherpa)

The Manaslu team made it up to Camp 2 today for acclimatization, and then returned to Camp 1 for sleeping tonight. Mingma Tenzing and Chewang carried up another ladder to help fix the route below Camp 2.  Sounds like the weather is OK, but we are keeping out eye on the forecast…there might be some snow coming later this week.  Lopsang, Jor Bahardur and Dhansher got back to Kathmandu yesterday evening with the trekking gear. Lobsang said they met countless number of porters on the way to Sama and that there was a porter shortage in Arughat, so some teams were delayed getting to Base Camp. Good thing we were ahead of the main crowd!  Here are some photos of the trek that Lopsang took.

Ang Jangbu Sherpa

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Kili Team Touches Down

September 10, 2012

Chris Meder, IMG Senior Guide, sent us a quick email from Africa.  It’s late there, his time.  Just wanted to let everyone know that all his team has arrived in Africa and with all their luggage.  They transferred to the Keys Hotel, had a late dinner and went straight to bed.  Lots to do tomorrow but, for tonight, it’s all about getting some sleep.

Phil Ershler

 

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Those Darn Knots!

September 9, 2012

From: Joseph Manning
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2012 11:35 AM
To: Tye Chapman
Subject: Thank you!

Hey IMG,

I am sitting in Seattle now, with clean clothes, and am a couple of showers post my incredible week on Rainier with IMG and the Glacier Skills Seminar. I am beginning to reflect on what an incredible week it was. It is not easy to put into careful words just how great the experience was. I find that it takes several weeks to really come down off of the mountain, my head is flooded with so many things about the experience. I was out of my comfort zone the whole week, from the first time I put on the loaded pack and we left from Paradise. I experienced many “firsts” that week. As a competitive cyclist for many years, I know what it feels like to be in a sport where everything is automatic. In my favorite new world of mountain climbing, everything still is new, and I felt like I had two left feet, ten thumbs and was focused, always focused, on (trying) to remember knots. Those damn knots. Was it a Butterfly knot here, or a clove hitch. “Hey Aaron…….” But you know what, the IMG guides were always besides me helping out, answering questions patiently, but also knowing that we students had to do it ourselves. That feeling of learning, of gaining confidence, slowly, of finally learning that knot, was a real joy. I was exhausted as Dustin and I reached Paradise. But I wanted to head back up hill the next day!

Now that I am back at sea level, and reading The Freedom of the Hills again, I realize how much we actually learned, and how I can build on this for the future. The amount of new knowledge, both positive- learning new things, and negative- learning what I need to improve on (pretty much an uncountable list in my case), was absolutely priceless. I am truly amazed that a week-long course like this, with world class guides, in a breathtakingly beautiful environment, actually costs so little. IMG courses and climbs (my kind of vacation for sure) truly are a bargain.

All of the guides were amazing, patient, highly skilled, giving of their time and experience and really great to be around. Like the Kili trip last fall, this IMG experience has to be chalked up in the “most memorable life experience” category. How great is that?

IMG, you all really offer those who come to you world class adventure as well as first class teaching that I, as someone who teaches for a living, truly appreciate. The Glacier Skills course was just an outstanding week. That goes for the weather too! Mountain climbing, it is often said, is best taken as a journey, not a destination. We did not summit, getting weathered off from 11,100, so I have to come back next Summer. But descending in the storm was a great experience itself, a real confidence builder.

Aaron, as Lead Guide, thanks so much for your superb leadership. Chris, thanks for your instruction, and Dustin, thanks for many things, especially for hanging back on the descent as I was fighting  a tummy bug. You guys are class acts all.

I hope you realize that on the ” what to improve” section of the Survey we filled out at headquarters, I was being facetious when I said that we could have had more personal attention. Not possible. We could not have been better treated by you all or by Tye back at headquarters.

Thanks guys, very much! IMG rocks. I can’t wait to get back into the Hills, and I am making plans for Spring and next Summer with IMG already! And I can’t wait for more instant oatmeal in some kitchen tent, up high, with the best guiding company on the planet.

Joe

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Manaslu Climbers Head To Camp 1

September 9, 2012

View from Manaslu Base. (Robert Kay)

IMG guide Mike Hamill reports that the team is doing well.  Yesterday they climbed to lower Camp 1 (5700m/19695ft) for acclimatization, then returned to Base Camp for a rest day today.  Tomorrow they are all moving up to Camp 1 to sleep, do a recon to Camp 2 (6400m/20992ft), and then move up to sleep at Camp 2.  In the meantime, the sherpas have now done two carries to Camp 1, and are also taking a rest day today.  Tomorrow two sherpas will carry up to Camp 1 while four will carry to Camp 2.  Sounds like the route is looking good, with about 600m of rope fixed on the way to Camp 1 with another 600m fixed between Camps 1 and 2.

Eric Simonson

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Puja Time

Septemeber 6, 2012

Puja Time. (Mike Hamill)

We had our Puja this morning and all the sherpas and climbers enjoyed it.  We had a lama come up from Sama Gaon and had a very good ceremony followed by some sherpa dance. Phunuru and I have worked out a tentative schedule for climbers and sherpas.  Tomorrow we plan to take a shorter acclimatization hike and do some training in the afternoon and the sherpas are going to take a first trip up to Camp 1.  The following day we will try to tag C1 and descend back to Base Camp, before taking another rest day.

Mike Hamill

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