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Mt. Rainier Shut The Door Early This Year

September 30, 2013

Paradise parking lot today.

Paradise parking lot today.

The Mt. Rainier climbing season came to a screeching halt last week with the arrival of a couple (yes a couple) premature winter storms and “Winter Storm Warnings”. We don’t normally get these winter storms in September, in fact, most years we could guide Rainier well into October. So, with the winds at Camp Muir forecasted at 90-100+mph, the freezing level called to drop to 5000ft, and several inches of rain (feet of snow) predicted, the decision to cancel our last climb of the season was a tough, but necessary decision. Thankfully all the climbers who were on that climb were incredibly understanding, with most having already rescheduled for next year.

As we officially wrap-up the season the storms are still dumping snow on the slopes of Mt. Rainier. For some additional perspective the snowplows are out at Paradise making their second and likely third laps of the parking lot.

Eventually the storms will push through and we’ll probably get more warm-up, but Mt. Rainier shut the door early this year; who are we not to listen?

Tye Chapman

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Dolpo Trekkers Cross Komas Pass

September 30, 2013

Soldang village in Google. Earth

Soldang village in Google. Earth

Adam Angel reports that the team really enjoyed their stay in Soldang, a very attractive little village up close to the Nepal-Tibet border.  He said the local people were harvesting barley, and singing in the fields as they worked.  Today they climbed up over the Komas Pass (about 15,500 feet) and dropped down to Komas village (about 14,100 feet).  They had some sleet and rain today as they crossed the pass, but the weather has improved as they dropped back down.  The overall weather trend is improving so hopefully they will not have any further issues in the high passes to come.

Eric Simonson

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Kili Team Going On A Lion Hunt

September 30, 2013

The terminal at Serengeti airport (Eric Simonson)

The terminal at Serengeti airport (Eric Simonson)

Chris Meder reports that the Kili team wrapped up their climb with a nice BBQ dinner back at the hotel, and a well-deserved sleep in a soft bed.  All their dirty climbing clothes go in a duffel, to be forgotten till they get home.  Now, it’s time to put on the safari gear, grab the binoculars and camera, and head for the bush!  The team flew to Seronera (Serengeti) today and headed out to go find some critters.  Tonight they will be in their luxury camp, enjoying a tall cool one.

Eric Simonson

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Cho Oyu Climbers Reach Camp 3

September 30, 2013

Satellite photo for September 30
Camp 3 and the view up towards the Yellow Band (Phunuru Sherpa)

Ang Jangbu reports that yesterday Chewang Lendu, Nima Karma, Mingma Tenzing and Ang Karma made it up to Camp 3 to dig out platforms and get the high camp set up at about 24,500 feet.  Then, today, the climbers moved up from Camp 2 to Camp 3, where they are currently resting, brewing, and getting ready for a big day tomorrow!  They will also be getting plugged in to their oxygen up at C3, which will help get some decent “rest” up there.

The plan for tomorrow is to start climbing in the wee hours of the morning and try to be on the summit early in the morning.  Some high clouds today but the weather seems to be holding and the most recent satellite photo shows that most of the moisture has moved out of the area. We’ll keep our fingers crossed!

Eric Simonson

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Carstensz Team Heading For The Barn

September 30, 2013

Members of the local Sugapa porter crew.
Dropping off the Plateau back into the forest.

Dan Zokaites reports by sat phone that the team hiked yesterday from Base Camp back over new Zealand Pass to the site of Camp 5 (sometimes referred to as Nasidoma…this is also near the place on the route where the trail from Illaga joins in).  They were joined by about a dozen of the local Sugapa guys who had stayed at Base Camp to wait for them while climbing.  Then, today, they all hiked to Camp 4, re-crossing a good chunk of the Plateau.  The goal for tomorrow is Camp 2.5…they will be back in the forest.  Everyone is getting pretty tired, but they are grinding it out.  So far, so good!

Eric Simonson

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Dolpo Trekkers Cross Sela Pass

September 28, 2013

Chortens on the Dolpo Trek  (photo: Ang Rita Sherpa)Adam Angel reports that the Dolpo trekkers had a great rest day at yesterday, and spent a second night at Shey Gompa.  During the night they had heavy rain, but now it has cleared.  Today they crossed over the Sela Pass (16,750 feet) and dropped down to Namgung Gompa (14,530 feet), another fantastic old monastery… with a Facebook Page!

Adam says the scenery is really fantastic and he is taking tons of good photos (Adam is a great photographer, so we’ll look forward to seeing his shots).  Tomorrow, the reach Soldang, the major village in the area.

Eric Simonson

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Cho Oyu Climbers Heading for Camp 2

September 28, 2013

Weather Map for Sept 28th

Weather Map for Sept 28th

We talked to Kaji this morning, who is holding down the fort at ABC.   Mike, Peter and their team are doing well and they left Camp 1 for Camp 2 this morning.  Weather continues to be good.  The Sherpas carried to Camp 2 yesterday and they got set up 5 tents.  Phunuru, Ang Karma and Mingma Dorje stayed at Camp 1 last night with the members.  Nima Karma, Mingma Tenzing and Chhewang dropped down to ABC yesterday afternoon and went back up this morning to go to Camp 2.   Ang Karma and Phunuru are climbing with members today to Camp 2 and the other Sherpas are going ahead to set up more tents.  We are keeping a close eye on the weather.  There is still some moisture in the vicinity, but it is supposed to keep moving to the north and east.

Eric Simonson

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Kilimanjaro Summits!

September 28, 2013

Chris Meder called on the sat phone to say that the whole team was together on the summit.  Way to go!  The weather was great and they had a perfect summit morning.  After their descent to Mweka Camp (about 11,000 feet), the team members are now enjoying some good food and thick air tonight. Tomorrow they finish the descent to Moshi and then get ready for four days on safari.


This will be our final autumn 2013 Kili trip.  Next up will be the December holiday trip (with guide Max Bunce), and then we kick off 2014 with our January and February Kili trips  (with guide Jenni Fogle).  January/February is a great time to go to Kili, and the air tickets are attractively priced this time of the year (we’ve seen flights running as low as $1900 from west coast and $1300 east coast).  Now’s the time to get on board!

Eric Simonson

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Carstensz Summits!

September 27, 2013

Dan Zokaites called from the summit of Carstensz to report that the team had an nice climb today.  The weather was excellent and they had great views of the surrounding peaks.  We heard from Dan again later when he called to say they are all back on the ground after rappelling the descent route.  Good news.

Tyrolean Traverse
Carstensz Pyramid
Summit Ridge

Now they just have to reverse their trek back to Sugapa over the next four or five days.  The adventure is not over yet!

Eric Simonson

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Cho Oyu Climbers Ready for the Summit Push

September 27, 2013

Climbing Route and Camps

Climbing Route and Camps

IMG leader Mike Hamill reports: “The team is rested and getting ready for their summit rotation. Today we reviewed the oxygen system again, had a summit meeting to discuss the summit push, and packed food for the next few days on the mountain. We had half an inch of snow last night but the weather has been clear and sunny today with a slight breeze from the North. Our plan is to head up tomorrow the 28th to Camp 1 with October 1 as a tentative summit day, depending on the weather.”

Eric  Simonson

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