January 25, 2015
A view from the top
100% on the summit of Aconcagua today. A bit cold but a great day to climb. The team is already safely back at high camp and will be descending to Plaza Mulas (base camp) tomorrow.
Great day and a great result.
Phil Ershler
January 23, 2015
Just off the sat phone with the team. They put in a carry today to C3, that’s high camp. This was the last of the big carries uphill. Likely plan is to move to C3 tomorrow. They’re watching the weather and starting to plan out their summit strategy, hoping for a summit bid late this coming weekend. Weather and how the team continues to acclimate are the key factors. Everyone is doing well right now and we want to keep it that way.
Phil Ershler
January 21, 2015
Like most Washington based mountain enthusiasts I appreciate the Cascades long winters and propensity for enormous amounts of snow. This season however, while storms keep rolling through, the snow just hasn’t piled up. That is except on the slopes of Mt Rainier. As one of the snowiest places on earth, Paradise, on Mt Rainier’s south side, is a sure bet for fun snowy recreation and learning.
Last Friday, a group of five eager backcountry skiers gathered at the Outdoor Research Retail Store in Seattle for Day 1 of their AIARE Avalanche I Course. Surrounded by awesome OR gear and beautiful mountain photos, it was impossible to not be inspired to explore Washington’s majestic winter wonderland. That afternoon we dove into the fundamentals of avalanche safety. We talked about avalanche terrain, the winter snowpack, and how, we as travelers, make decisions. It was a great day of prep for our two days in the field on Mt. Rainier.
Saturday’s forecast was anything but perfect. Rain, rain, and more rain. As the group gathered at IMG’s Ashford, WA based headquarters the rain continued to pour down outside. Our team set down to the task of planning a fun short tour to practice avalanche rescue and to view some avalanche terrain. Then we all donned our goretex and jumped feet first into the puddles of the Paradise parking lot. The only bad days in the mountains are the days not spent in the mountains. Our team kept great spirits as we practiced avalanche rescue and ski toured towards the Paradise River.
Back in Ashford, the group found dry cloths, warm meals, and maybe a beer or two. One of my favorite parts of IMG’s Level 1 courses is that all the students are welcome to stay in IMG’s Guide Lounge upstairs in Ashford. This allows for some great informal education and team building that can only occur when we all relax, laugh, and share. I’d say we talked and laughed late into the night, but after a full day in the mountains we all hit the hay a little earlier than normal.
With our spirits slightly damp from the rain on Saturday the team regrouped for our Sunday adventure. This time it wasn’t rain but SNOW! The team planned for the conditions, sought out the best snow, then went to the field and executed their plan. Knowing visibility would be a concern the team set themselves up for some lower angle tree skiing. Minimizing their risk and maximizing the accumulating snow at Paradise. And what a day it was; exploring the winter wonderland.
I’m confident that this group will all be competent and safe backcountry travelers. Knowing where to find the fun and the safe snow in which to play.
Are you getting out into the mountains this winter? I know we are!
AIARE Avy 1 Courses
February 13-15
March 13-15
Dallas Glass
January 21, 2015
The good news continues. Aaron Mainer called from the Ice early this morning. The IL 76 was able to make it to Union Glacier. Super news. Aaron and team will be back in Punta later today and ready to start working their way home on the 22nd. That ends a truly great Vinson season. Everyone summited on 4 of our expeditions and, more or less, every trip was able to fly in and out on schedule. We really couldn’t have asked for more. 2015/16 dates are already on the web site and it’s none too early to start getting serious if you want to be part of another successful IMG team next season.
Also, just got off the sat phone with Luke Reilly down in Ecuador. He called to tell me they had a super successful ascent of Chimborazo this morning and that they’re off the mountain and headed to the high jungle town of Banos. Totally great news. He said it was overcast early this morning with a mix of rain and snow when they left camp. As they climbed higher, the overcast thinned and the precipitation ended and they were walking under clear skies and almost zero wind. A blanket of new snow made for great climbing conditions. The team is super excited.
January 19, 2015
Here we go – Aaron Mainer and his successful Vinson team are at the Union Glacier – eating, drinking and generally celebrating their success. Earliest they can fly off is tomorrow but mother nature controls all.
On Aconcagua, our third team of the season is ready to move to C1 tomorrow. The current good weather stretch has been a long one and we’re hoping nothing changes.
The hot springs of Papallacta
In Ecuador, Luke and team got chased off Cayambe by a lightning storm. Not much to do there other than retreat and go enjoy the hot springs in Papallacta. Several members head off tomorrow to make an attempt on Chimborazo. Reports on the climbing conditions are reasonable so they’re going to take a shot.
And, that’s all the news from IMG international trips, at least as of today.
Phil Ershler
January 16, 2015
By Sarah Cousins Hoopes
A brief history: Back in 2012 (my 2nd year in Ouray) I attended a beginners clinic as part of the Ouray Ice Festival. My instructor was really great and helpful, but as soon as I got up on the wall, one of the assistants decided he really, really, wanted my ice pick planted in his forehead. He was hovering and demanding and criticizing because I wasn’t doing it his way. Since experiencing the Ouray jail first hand, or being hauled off in handcuffs was not on my list of goals for that day, I dropped off the wall, and that was my experience with ice climbing.
Then, last year, 2014, I met Sondra Ripperger, a new guide with the IMG Veterans program. I immediately enjoyed her company and during the week I saw she interacted with the clients in a fun and easy going manner. Later in the year, I contacted her, and we worked it out with IMG so I could get a private instruction day with her on Monday of the IMG Veterans program.
Aside – please do not misunderstand. I love all the guides of the IMG Veterans program, they are very skilled, pleasant, fun, and strong instructors. Sondra is someone I personally felt I could comfortably learn something new, since we have so many shared interests and hobbies, with whom I could focus on the experience itself and not her perception of me. I mostly learn by watching and doing, and when I’m uncomfortable, I shut down (and maybe try again when I’m in a more comfortable situation). I know myself, and myself could work with Sondra for a first experience with learning a completely new technical skill.
I was right. She was amazing. Her first rule is “having fun”; everything else is secondary. We talked about many varied subjects on our way out to South Park that morning and throughout the day. We discussed making lotions, limoncello, vanilla, singing, instruments, Cuisinarts, and kitchen gadgets, how to properly set up an anchor, which knots are best for different tasks, lots of tricks to make climbing easier, and so much more.
Once down in the gully at the South Park section of the Ouray Ice Park, she taught me to climb with my feet. I was amazed how far I could go without the tools I see everyone using. My gloves got wet, my hands got cold, but with her encouragement and gentle guidance I got up 2/3rds of the wall just with hands and feet! And in the process I began to see why people do this over and over again, and why my husband and his friends return year after year.
Then she taught me about the ice axe and the A (tripod/triangle) position, and sent me up with just one axe. I quickly discovered that it’s almost easier to climb without tools, because with the axe in hand I was more focused on it than my feet (as she had wisely warned me would happen).
After lunch (when the distractions were over) she sent me up the wall with the skills I had learned in the morning. It was an eventful climb; I made all the normal mistakes, and my muscles were tired and in pain, and yada yada yada, I made it to the cave. Sondra gently encouraged me to take breaks, inspired me to find ways to solve various problems, and before I knew it, I was at the top of the climb, even though that hadn’t been my goal. With her help, I went farther than I had hoped!
The next day I was exhausted, and in pain, and stiff, but the memory of my day with Sondra is a great one. I will never be as dedicated as the IMG Veterans; I still have a lot of snow bunny activities to do, but I do plan to get at least one day each year if she is available.
Sondra is an amazingly gifted instructor and fascinating person, all around. From what I hear the other clients say, she is great with all levels of ability, and I definitely recommend her skills to anyone who is interested in trying their hand at this sport.
-Sarah
January 15, 2014
A view from the top.
Just got off two phone calls  – one from the Vinson crew and the another from Aconcagua.
Let’s start with the big news – 100% on top of Vinson Massif – AGAIN! Aaron Mainer called from the ‘top of the bottom’ to let me know that all of his team and he were on the summit. Super job, guys! Great weather and one happy group. Our congratulations to them all.
Grand total for the season is 21/21 customers on top. That’s a testament to our climbers and to our guides.
On Aconcagua, Josh Tapp called in to say they were eating dinner at Casa Piedra. This is Day 2 on the approach for this very strong team. Josh reports good weather but also a good number of tents at camp. No problem, it’s a big mountain.
Phil Ershler
January 15, 2015
One of our climbers, Nic Dumesnil, was able to send out a couple of sweet photographs from their Cotopaxi climb yesterday. Let’s call them Summit and Shadow. Funny how the view seems to get better the higher you climb!
Phil Ershler
January 14, 2015
Happy climbers on their way to hot showers! (Josh McDowell)
Josh McDowell and team had a very late dinner last night in Mendoza. It’s done. Everyone’s working on flights home and congratulating each other on a job well done. Josh Tapp is putting in their first day on the trail today.
Up north, it was a successful Summit day in Ecuador today. The weather held and the gang climbed Cotopaxi, at over 19,000′. They are already in route to the Hotel La Cienega. Hot showers, a hot meal and a warm bed are on the agenda for tonight. Nice job, gang.
It’s been a good day!
Phil Ershler
January 13, 2015
Josh Tapp and his team at dinner in Mendoza.
Two IMG teams should see each other tonight in Penitentes, albeit briefly. Josh McDowell and team make that final hike out from Plaza Mula to Penitentes. The team will be psyched. All of them stood on the summit, all healthy and all ready to get to the steak and wine of Mendoza. They’ll stop long enough in Penitentes to grab their duffels, buy a Coke or beer and shake hands with Josh Tapp’s team.  He has already left Mendoza and is on his way to Penitentes. Tapp’s team has one night in Penitentes and tomorrow, they begin their hike up the Vacas River valley. One team finishes as another begins. Just as it’s supposed to be. Everyone is excited but for slightly different reasons.
Phil Ershler
