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Rough Weather Forces Denali Prep Seminar Down Early

April 10, 2015

One of their camps down low. (Chris Meder)
One of their camps down low. (Chris Meder)
A classic shot of Mt. Adams from Camp Muir (Chris Meder)
A classic shot of Mt. Adams from Camp Muir (Chris Meder)

Yesterday, the winter storm watch and the forecasted extreme winds, forced our latest Denali Prep Seminar off of Mt. Rainier a day early. The team had spent a few days down low training then made the move to Camp Muir on Wednesday in great conditions. They woke up on Thursday to blue skies and calm winds – truly the calm before the storm.  We’d been keeping our eyes on the forecast knowing that some rough weather was coming in this weekend. The weather came earlier than expected making the decision a tough but easy one for IMG Lead Guide Chris Meder.

So how bad was the forecast? Well, the wind speeds were forecasted to be in the 70-80mph range at Camp Muir and 90-100mph on the summit with respective temperature forecasts being 0ºF and -11ºF.  If you’re doing the math that’s a windchill in the range of -40ºF to -50ºF.  You can track the Camp Muir actual wind speeds here. The 8:00am – 9:00am average was 48mph – gusting to 55mph.

In the end, everybody made it down in good form yesterday. They had smiles on their faces as they swapped some stories at the Copper Creek. This morning the enjoyed some pancakes and bacon in the guide lounge followed by a day trip to Paradise for some fixed line training. A win in everybody’s book!

Tye Chapman

 

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Upcoming Prep For Rainier Talks At REI

April 7, 2015

Whether you’re climbing Mt. Rainier with IMG, or some friends, why not swing by REI for a Prep For Rainier talk and learn a couple things from the experts. We’ll go over the main routes, discuss some training recommendations and of course go over a lot of the gear. Bring your questions with you!

April 7, 2015 – Seattle Flagship Store – 7pm (Phil Ershler)  **Tonight!
April 9, 2015 – Redmond Store – 7pm (Cedric Gamble)
April 14, 2015 – Issaquah Store – 7pm (George Dunn)

Tye Chapman

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Mike And Aaron Went To China

April 3, 2014

IMG has worked with the Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA) since the 1980’s so it was no surprise that they got in touch recently to see if we could send over a couple of our IMG guides for a mountaineering safety seminar.  Every year CMA hosts this meeting, and for 2015 it was in Wenzhou, which is south of Shanghai. The CMA calls on many of the other Chinese provinces, nearby countries (Korea, Taiwan, etc.) and a few more distant countries (USA, Norway, Switzerland, etc.) to send representatives to the program.  The purpose of these annual seminars is to share knowledge and to help create a standard that can be recognized worldwide in the mountaineering community. This year, the topic of discussion was mountain rescue, and representing IMG and the USA were senior guides Aaron Mainer and Mike Haft.  Mike’s trip report is below.

– Eric Simonson

 

Improvisation skills on display.
Improvisation skills on display.
A break-out session group photo.
A break-out session group photo.

The night before the seminar began, Aaron and I were asked to join the hosts of this seminar for a wonderful dinner.  This dinner was held for the guest speakers of the seminar.  The spread was impressive to say the least.  There must have been 20 dishes constantly being passed around the table, including duck tongue (famous in Wenzhou), turtle soup, shark fin soup, and the fancy seafood dishes common to the Chinese culture.  I came to three conclusions that evening.  First, in China, there is no shortage of food at a formal dinner. Second, there is no shortage of “toasting” to show appreciation in China, and lastly, there is no shortage of hospitality in China.  The night was a whirlwind of culture and conversation.  We shared many tales of mountain adventures, laughed at the mutual friends we were unaware we had, and went to sleep satisfied from the events of the day.

The first day of the seminar was dedicated to the topic, “Accidents in Mountaineering.”  I was literally the first speaker of the seminar.  I talked about the American Alpine Club (AAC) and their publication  Accidents in North American Mountaineering, and how because of 60+ years of reported accidents and the case studies that accompany them, we are able to identify and learn from their common problems. Following my powerpoint, the other guest speakers presented on the same topic.  Of the Europeans, there was Dan, a guide and the Vice President of the International Commission for Alpine Rescue (ICAR) from Norway, and Pascal who is a guide and professional mountain rescuer from Switzerland.  It was fascinating to compare the statistics of the USA to Europe.  What I gathered from listening to all of the presentations was that accidents happen, and will continue to happen. What will continue to change and evolve is how we deal with these accidents.

The second day of the seminar was originally going to focus on the structure of organized rescue in the various countries.  However, due to bad weather, we adjusted some things and decided to present a live demo. The scenario Aaron and I presented was “how to rescue a lead climber as the belayer”.  Aaron and I demonstrated these skills three times to groups of 60. We didn’t quite have the best set-up for this demo but if there is anything a guide is good at, it is adaptive thinking and problem solving.  Using our resources we decided that a 100ft tall light pole in the middle of a field would be our rescue scene.  This alone was a spectacle in itself.  The day was a success.

Finally, on the third and last day of the seminar, each speaker presented their country’s or provinces’ newest and latest rescue gear and techniques.  Aaron took this opportunity to focus on companion rescue involving glaciated terrain.  His talk focused on the primary differences and similarities of “improvised” rescue vs. “organized” rescue, the gear that is involved, and how to use it.

There were close to 200 people from all around the world. We all had one common purpose, sharing information so we can learn from our mistakes and work towards a worldwide standard in mountain rescue techniques.  It was a fun trip!

Mike Haft

 

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Another Summit On Mt. Whitney!

March 30, 2015

High camp, Mt. Whitney (Matt Cave)

High camp, Mt. Whitney (Matt Cave)

Once again, George called us from the top of Mt. Whitney today with news of their summit!  Weather was spectacular so they had a little time to take in the view before descending back down to high camp.

Tomorrow they’ll beat a path to Lone Pine and celebrate with food & drink, and some good stories.

Becky Kjorvestad

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2015 Everest Expedition Underway

March 26, 2015

The first team of IMG trekkers and climbers departing the Hotel Tibet in Kathmandu before dawn for the Lukla flights (photo: Ang Jangbu)

The first team of IMG trekkers and climbers departing the Hotel Tibet in Kathmandu before dawn for the Lukla flights (photo: Ang Jangbu)

The IMG team members and guides have begun arriving in Kathmandu. Yesterday the first group of trekkers and Hybrid team climbers did gear checks and finished packing, followed by their first team dinner. This morning everyone was up early to fly to Lukla. The weather up in Lukla is good, but in Kathmandu it is cloudy, and the flights are delayed. Hopefully it will clear up so they can fly later in the day!

Eric Simonson

***For full Everest coverage check our our exclusive Everest Expedition Blog here.

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Whitney Team Summits

March 23, 2015

Lower boy scout camp 1

At lower boy scout camp 1

Just got the call from George Dunn from the summit of Mt. Whitney – 100% on top!  Temperature was quite cold, so they were on their way back down to high camp where they’ll have a chance to catch their breath.  Tomorrow they’ll pack up and hit the trail out.

Well done, team!

Beck Kjorvestad

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Spring Ski Traverse Of Mt. Rainier April 14-19

March 18, 2015

Crossing the Cowlitz Glacier. (Photo by Dallas Glass)

Crossing the Cowlitz Glacier. (Photo by Dallas Glass)

Who is up for an unforgettable ski mountaineering experience on Mt. Rainier. It is not an exaggeration to say that Mt. Rainier offers some of the world’s finest ski mountaineering terrain. You will be skiing over a varied landscape including glaciers, chutes, long ascents and descents. This program makes a south to north ski traverse of Mt. Rainier at altitudes ranging from 5,000′ up to 10,000′ and back down again. During the five days we climb up to Camp Muir at 10,000′; cross the Ingraham and Emmons Glaciers to Camp Schurman at 9,600′ and finally around to the Carbon Glacier with a descent along the glacier moraine down to the toe of the Carbon Glacier at 4,000′. We will ski as far as possible then hike the remaining distance out to the Carbon River entrance to the Park in this five-day continuous push.

Itinerary
Full Trip Info
Dates: April 14-19
Cost: $1500
Group size: Max 6
Sign-up Deadline: Monday, April 6

 

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Double Plastic Boots Are Not Monsters

March 5, 2015

Every year “the boot questions” come up and every year we write a blog article hoping to answer more questions than we create.  Below is this year’s fun, but relevant, crack at some oft asked boot questions.

Boots are for humans.

Boots are for humans.

Question #0: What are single boots and what are double plastic boots?

Answers

  • Single boots are warm, waterproof, insulated leather or synthetic climbing boots designed for mountaineering. They’re great for mid-summer climbs in the northwest, the alps, ice climbing etc. (Example: Scarpa Mont Blanc GTX or the La Sportiva Nepal Evo GTX).
  • Double plastic boots are a plastic shell boot with a separate liner boot for warmth. These are great for a lot of different climbs in the US and internationally. (Example: Scarpa Inverno or the Koflach Degre).

Question #1: I’m climbing Rainier in May/June and have a pair of single boots, will they be sufficient?

Answer: Probably not. The temperatures on the upper mountain, and the probability that the single boots will get wet and freeze, all but eliminate these as a viable option in May and June. It is possible that they could be worn, but it’s a pretty big purchase for a ‘maybe’.

Question #2: …but the boot website says they’re good for winter mountaineering.

Answer: This is a pretty vague statement when you think about it. Winter where?

Question #3: …but the boot website says they’re good for all general mountaineering.

Answer: That might apply to a skilled climber who has experience in the mountains and knows exactly how and where to use these boots. Single boots are great but do not apply to all types of climbers in all types of conditions. They are a great tool to use when and where appropriate.

Question #4: …but the boot website says…X

Answer: Boot manufacturers, and the stores that sell the boots, are in the business of selling boots. Read that last sentence again.  We’re in the business taking people into the mountains for a safe and enjoyable experience. Our only horse in this race is making sure you have the right gear for the climb you’ve signed up for.

Question #5: I literally have $500 burning a hole in my pocket, what boots should I buy?

Answers: That depends on what type of climber you are, or want to be:

  • If you’re looking at climbing bigger mountains down the road then double plastic boots are the way to go. Almost all of the mountains we work on require double plastic boots…or heavier for the likes of Everest and Vinson.
  • If you’re like the idea of climbing in the Pacific Northwest in mid-summer, ice climbing in Colorado, or summer climbs in the Alps, then single boots are the way to go.

Question #6: I have Difficultfeetitis, what should I do?

Answer: Take your time. Whether it’s buying or renting boots, try on a few pair. Try over the counter inserts. Try orthopedic inserts. Look at aftermarket heat moldable liner boots (Intuition) as a way to customize your double plastic boots. Punch out the tight spot – ski shops can heat up and punch out areas of the plastic boots that might rub on your foot. Keep in mind that just because your feet are tough to fit doesn’t negate the single vs. double argument.

Question #7: I hear that double plastic boots are horrible monsters with teeth like a great white shark and they love to eat the feet of humans.

Answer: Not true. Double plastic boots are wonderful boots. If they fit properly and you walk in them correctly then you’ll likely have a great experience. The rigidity of all climbing boots can be tough to overcome, but once you figure it out, your heels, and the balls of your feet, will thank you! Double plastic boots are not ski boots. They are similar in rigidity and their double plastic nature, but the similarities end there.  The vice like grip of ski boots is not what we’re looking for in double plastic boots. For non-technical terrain (i.e. the Muir Snowfield) we often wear our boots pretty loose. And even when roped up with crampons on, they are nowhere near as tight as a ski boot.

Question #8:  Steel cage death match – single boots vs. Double plastic boots – who wins?

Answer: Chuck Norris.

Tye Chapman

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Snow In The Kingdom

March 3, 2015

Mingma Tenzing in Phortse snowstorm.
Mingma Tenzing in Phortse snowstorm.
Phunuru and Nima Karma at AAC in NYC
Phunuru and Nima Karma at AAC in NYC
Phunuru's house in Phortse
Phunuru’s house in Phortse

With a nod to the old time weather report on Radio Nepal (and Ed Webster’s Everest book), we can report that we had a big dose of snow in Khumbu the last few days.

Thanks to IMG climber Warren Wilhide’s support, Phunuru and Nima Karma had a great time at the American Alpine Club meeting in New York.  Phunuru made it back to Nepal and flew up to Phortse just in time for the big snowstorm.  Sounds like the Khumbu has been hit hard.  It may be an inconvenience for now, but it is always good to get some early season snow up on the big hill.  Phunuru sent several photos from Phortse…check out waist deep Mingma Tenzing (who is 5’10”!).

Ang Jangbu and our Kathmandu team have been packing food and gear are getting ready to send more loads up to Khumbu.  Phunuru will be working with our IMG sherpas up in Khumbu, as they start constructing our Everest Base Camp and moving our expedition loads uphill  (once everyone gets done digging out!).

Eric Simonson

***Want more on IMG’s 2015 Everest Expedition? Follow the full IMG 2015 Everest Blog here. 

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That’s A Wrap For Kilimanjaro

March 2, 2015

Time to get caught up with Mike Haft’s Kilimanjaro crew and safari.  Mike’s messages keep talking about how many animals they’ve seen and all the ‘kills’.  It truly is amazing to see the interaction between all the animals and to experience ‘mother nature’ up close and personal.  Can you imagine sitting out by the campfire after a day of game viewing with your favorite drink in hand?  It’s especially fun AFTER having worked hard and succeeding on Kilimanjaro. I would never want to do the safari first.

Zebras on the safari
A special last dinner together

With the end of Mike’s second expedition, so ends our winter Kilimanjaro season.  The long rains will come to East Africa soon.  We’ll be back at the end of June to take advantage of the long spell of good weather that comes each summer.

Phil Ershler

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