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That’s a Wrap: Ecuador and Mexico

November 21, 2016

Ecuador team relaxing at the Hacienda San Augustin

Ecuador team relaxing at the Hacienda San Augustin

Over the weekend, we wrapped up the Mexico trip and the gang in Ecuador will be flying home late tonight.  Working with the Reyes family in Mexico made all the logistics issues down there simple.  After their successful climb of Orizaba, the team had a nice dinner (after nice showers) at the Reyes family compound in Tlachichua and then spent the night there.  They traveled in private transportation back to Mexico City Saturday morning and all got back together that evening for one final dinner.  It was a good trip and everyone caught flights home Sunday morning.  Next expedition to the Mexico volcanos is 28 January with Josh McDowell leading.  Still time and space to join the team.

The team in Ecuador was bummed with the weather they ‘drew’ on Antisana but determined to make the most of their last bit of time in country.  They visited an old friend, Jorge Anhalzer, who is ‘retired’ climbing guide and a simply great photographer.  He’s authored, with Romulo’s assistance, a number of coffee table books about the people and country of Ecuador.  Then, Romulo’s wife, Patricia, prepared the Ecuadorian delicacy cuy as lunch for the crew at their house.  For those who don’t know, cuy is guinea pig.  Monday will be a hike up Pinchincha and then off to the airport for flights home.

Luke heads back to Ecuador with our next team on 5 January.  2 slots remain.

Next up – Vinson Massif.  First expedition of the season begins on 23 November with flights to Punta Arenas, Chile.  Mike Hamill and team will kick off the season for us.  Stay tuned.

Phil Ershler

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Ecuador Team Ready For Antisana

November 18, 2016

Hotel La Cienega

Hotel La Cienega

Luke and team had a chance to check in this afternoon from high camp on Antisana.  Weather has been good today.  A little foggy now but likely to clear tonight.  They’re ready to take a shot in the morning.

Reports have it that conditions are reasonable up high.  There’s often a problem with a bergschrund just below the summit but doesn’t seem to be the case this season.  A couple of steep sections which can likely be safely passed with a couple of running belays.

Luke will try to report in when they get back to camp tomorrow.  If all goes well, they’ll try to get all the way to the Hotel La Cienega, near the town of Latacunga, tomorrow evening.

Phil Ershler

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Mexico Team Summits!

November 18, 2016

Team on the Summit
Start of the Glacier

 

Back in the saddle this morning for Austin and crew in Mexico.  Great climbing conditions and good weather made for a sweet climb of Orizaba this morning.  Orizaba’s the third highest peak in North America.  Well done, team.

They’ll head back to Mexico City in the morning for one final ‘day on the town’ together.

Phil Ershler

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Update from Mexico and Ecuador

November 16, 2016

High Camp on Ixta
Team on Ixta
Climbing Cayambe
Summit of Cayambe

 

Let’s get caught up on this morning’s summit attempts.  Down in Mexico, Austin and team got  shut out.  Weather turned for the worse last night and heavy snow kept the team in camp.  Bummer.  Team’s retreated and is heading now for the city of Puebla.  They’ve still got another shot when they head tomorrow morning to Orizaba.  Weather said no this morning but the team’s upbeat and ready for an attempt on Orizaba.

Better luck in Ecuador.  Luke and team summited Cayambe this morning.  Cold and a bit breezy but clear.  They’re off the mountain and now on their way to the hot springs of Papallacta.  If it’s clear, they’ll get a good view of their next objective – Antisana.

Phil Ershler

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Tomorrow is Summit Day

November 15, 2016

Cayambe
Ixta

 

Tomorrow is summit day — for both Austin and team in Mexico and Luke and his crew in Ecuador.  Everyone on each team is at high camp and ready to take a shot in the morning.  Ixta and Cayambe are both alpine climbs meaning alpine starts.  Teams will be getting up around midnight, having a quick breakfast and starting to walk.  Weather tends to be a bit more settled, snow is better for cramponing and the team also gives themselves a ‘cushion of daylight’ at the end of the climbing day to deal with anything which might arise.  You always hate getting out of the sleeping bag at that hour but you end up never regretting an early start.

Weather looks reasonable for each team so let’s see how tomorrow goes.  We’ll be getting two sat phone calls at some point and will let you know what we hear.  Wishing everyone the best.

Phil Ershler

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Ecuador and Mexico Teams Checking In

November 14, 2016

Mexico Team Near Cortez Pass

Mexico Team Near Cortez Pass

A quick update from our teams currently in Mexico and Ecuador.  Austin and crew had a great acclimatization hike yesterday and are making a carry with some gear/water up to high camp on Ixta today.  All’s good and looks like a fair amount of new snow on the mountains.  Team will stay at the Altzimoni Hut at Cortez Pass tonight.

In Ecuador, Luke, Romulo and crew are heading to the refugio on Cayambe today.  A skills refresher tomorrow.  Two nights at the refugio and an extra day there will help with the acclimatization.  So far, so good.

Phil Ershler

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Ecuador and Mexico Teams off to Good Start

November 13, 2016

Luke reported in saying all luggage is now in hand and that everything else is going smoothly.  Since arriving in Otavalo, the crew’s been hiking around Cuicocha, visited a local weaver who’s a good friend of Romulo (and ours) and spent Saturday morning visiting the animal market as well as checking out the famous Otavalo Market after breakfast.  Dinner was at a beautiful hacienda about 30 mins from town.  Hiking Fuya Fuya is on the agenda for Sunday, with the team ending up at Papa Gayo, near the town of Cayambe, for the night. All good.

IMG Mexico team
Lago Cuicocha
Hacienda Pinsaqui
Hacienda Pinsaqui

 

A bit north in the country of Mexico, Austin Shannon is leading our first Mexico Volcanos trip of the season. Everyone arrived Saturday afternoon AND with all their luggage.  After introductions and a short team meeting at our hotel, the team headed out to their first dinner together.  They’re off Sunday morning for the town of Amecameca and their first look at Ixta as well as their first acclimatization hike. Off to a good start.

Phil Ershler

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Ecuador Team Enjoying Quito, on to Otavalo

November 11, 2016

Team at the Monument to the Virgin of Quito

Team at the Monument to the Virgin of Quito

Our first Ecuador trip of the season has begun.  IMG Senior Guide, Luke Reilly, and our Ecuadorian partner, Romulo Cardenas, are at the helm.  We’re wishing them all good weather and good luck.

All members arrived late last evening.  One bag is still “MIA” but we’re hoping to see that soon.  A tour of Old Town, a visit to many of the famous cathedrals and a stop at the equator filled the morning.  The team is now in the town of Otavalo, north of the equator.  Visits to Peguche and the famous Otavalo Market are on the agenda for tonight/tomorrow and pizza is on the menu for tonight.

Stayed tuned.  We’ll have many more updates from Luke, Romulo and the team.

Phil Ershler

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IMG Avalanche Education in the Snowiest Place On Earth

November 10, 2016

An IMG Level 1 course works together to make a decision on where to snowshoe to next (Dallas Glass)
An IMG Level 1 course works together to make a decision on where to snowshoe to next (Dallas Glass)
Team work and good decision making are key to safe winter mountain travel (Dallas Glass)
Team work and good decision making are key to safe winter mountain travel (Dallas Glass)
It’s fun to reap the rewards of good planning, excellent team work, and proper terrain selection. After all we are out here to enjoy ourselves (Dallas Glass)
It’s fun to reap the rewards of good planning, excellent team work, and proper terrain selection. After all we are out here to enjoy ourselves (Dallas Glass)

 

The last of the leaves are falling from the trees, each morning is cooler than the last, and the air in the mountains has a crisp feel signaling the coming winter. For us here at IMG that means time to wax up those skis, break out the snowshoes, grab the big puffy, and head out into the winter wonderland that is our backyard. Having Paradise on Mt Rainier a short drive away, means we have access to one of the snowiest places on earth to get out in the mountains. Whether it’s a blue bird day or more snow is falling, we have the ability to get outside and enjoy this special season.

Folks frequently call our office inquiring about what programs IMG offers for winter travel. At the foundation of our winter programs on Rainier is our Avalanche Education program. These courses aren’t just designed for skiers or climbers, they are designed for all recreationists that want to get outside during the winter. So, whether you snowshoe or snowboard, ski or ice climb, these courses are built to help you develop skills as a winter mountain traveler. IMG is pleased to provide avalanche curriculum from the American Institute of Avalanche Research and Education (AIARE). AIARE is a leader in avalanche education in the US, with a keen focus on decision making and terrain use in the mountains.

This winter IMG is offering both AIARE level 1 and level 2 courses. The Level 1 is designed for winter travelers who want to learn how to develop sharp decision making skills, use terrain to increase safety, and expand their ability to understand the winter mountain environment. This three day course is based at our headquarters in Ashford, WA where we enjoy quick easy access to Paradise. IMG capitalizes on low instructor to student ratios (5:1) and excellent teaching terrain to provide an open and effective learning environment for all travel types. So, whether you’re new to backcountry skiing, an experienced snowshoer, or a long time resort rider, our learning format will meet your needs.

The AIARE level 2 course is designed for students who want to take their backcountry skills to more remote areas or into more complex terrain. This four day course focusses on understanding mountain weather and snowpack to develop informed opinions on avalanche hazard within the terrain. Building on the skills of the AIARE level 1 course, students will delve deeper into decision making and selecting terrain with appropriate safety margins that match our current hazard assessment.

All IMG course are taught by our AIARE certified instructors who have worked as avalanche forecasters, mountain and ski guides, professional ski patrollers, and educators. You’ll find small groups and lots of field time as we work together to enjoy the mountain environment in the winter. Come join as we celebrate winter on Mt Rainier

Dallas Glass

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Prep for Your Next Adventure, Denali Style

November 9, 2016

Winter Sunrise on the Muir Snowfield (Tyler Gimenez)
Winter Sunrise on the Muir Snowfield (Tyler Gimenez)
Winter Camp on Mount Rainier (Mark Allen)
Winter Camp on Mount Rainier (Mark Allen)
Sled Hauling
Sled Hauling

 

Many guiding companies require a Denali Prep Seminar as a pre-requisite for joining bigger expeditions. I also find myself recommending them to people who want to learn more about winter mountaineering before heading out on their own adventures. What’s the big deal? Why does 6 days on Rainier matter so much? Well, there are 101 ways that a Denali Prep Seminar will raise your game and get you ready for bigger, better things, but just for starters here are a few.

You Can’t Get There From Here, or can you? – Ever wonder how guides deal with adverse conditions? How is it that experienced climbers and guides can travel in conditions that make most people curl into their reading nook with a cup of tea? Watch and learn how to manage challenging conditions so that the next time the weather takes a turn for the worse, getting out to play may still be an option!

It’s The Little Things – I can’t tell you how many times I’ve given a little tip to a climber and its made the difference between a good trip and failure. Things like, knocking off your boots before bringing them into your tent. How to stay hydrated at night. A better way to use the layers they brought with them. With the seminars you get to see 8 people all discovering these little tricks, with professional instruction, for 6 days.

It’s the Real Deal – Big mountains mean big weather, and Rainier is a big mountain. Winter on Rainier is no joke. Cold weather, big snow dumps, wind, the works! Just like what you will find in the greater ranges. Which means Rainier is the place to train for your next big dream. Last year I got stuck at Camp 1 on Aconcagua for 6 nights with high winds, snow and cold temps. We were setting up and taking down camp in miserable conditions, conditions that were just about like what I’ve had on Denali Prep Seminars… just 10,000 ft. higher!

Team Building – As guides we spend hundreds of days each year climbing with all sorts of people. And every guide has made lifelong friends from long expeditions. Denali Prep Seminars give enough time stuck together on the mountain that the team comes together as a whole group. Whether it’s enjoying a perfect day, or dealing with a raging blizzard, Denali Prep teams band together to make the most of what the mountain gives them. Experience the brotherhood, or sisterhood, of the rope.

True Mountain Skills – Fitness, rope work, technical climbing skill, all these are important to have when climbing. But if you can’t stay warm, dry, and functional they don’t mean much! Denali Prep Seminars are the place to dial in the basic key skills that allow you to impress your guides on the next trip. When I’m guiding a team and they’re taking care of themselves I know for a fact that no matter what, summit or no summit, we’ll have a good trip.

Bragging Rights – So many great mountaineering stories starts with “So no kidding, there we were…” Getting to tell stories of when three feet of snow fell in 8 hours and you had to stay up all night shoveling out your tents. Or when it was so cold that your insulated water bottle froze. Or that time when, after 4 days of storms, the weather cleared up and gave you the most beautiful bluebird day at Camp Muir. Those are stories to tell over and over!

Sound like a good trip? Head over to our Denali Prep webpage and check out the details!

Robert Jantzen

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