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Vinson Team, Right on Schedule

December 1, 2016

That's Ice - As Far As The Eye Can See

That’s Ice – As Far As The Eye Can See

Spoke with Mike Hamill Wednesday afternoon.  Another positive day.  The team made a carry up just short of high camped and cached there.  Positioning the extra supplies there allows them to move right to high camp when they’re ready for their summit push.  Weather was again quite good.  Mike relayed that they may see some deterioration in the weather today but it’s forecasted to be short lived.  If that forecast holds true, the team’s in exactly the right position.

Today’s a rest day down at C1.  We’ll see if the weather looks ‘right’ tomorrow for a move up to high camp.  All’s well down on the Ice.

Phil Ershler

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Cell Tower at Paradise? – NPS Plan Open for Public Comment

November, 30 2016

Jackson Visitor Center (JVC) at Paradise

Jackson Visitor Center (JVC) at Paradise

The National Park Service has opened a public comment process on a proposal to install a cellular antenna in the Jackson Visitor Center (JVC) at Paradise in Mount Rainier National Park. After considering the pros and cons to having increased communication around Paradise, we at IMG support the plan to add cell coverage capabilities within the Park.  The comment period ends 12/12/2016. According to the Park:

“The National Park Service has received two right-of-way permit applications from wireless telecommunications providers to install and co-locate wireless communications facilities within Mount Rainier National Park. The proposed location is in the Paradise area, within the National Historic Landmark District, and would not require the construction or use of a tower…. The proposed action would allow installation of telecommunications support equipment in the attics of the Jackson Visitor Center at Paradise. Antennas would be mounted on the interior of the east and west gable ends of the non-historic building, behind a special fiberglass panel designed to match the existing exterior wood siding.”

As a guiding company on Rainier, and as professional mountain guides around the world, we are often called upon to assist with rescues of independent climbers. Many accidents are preventable with increased communication, or could be initiated in a timelier manner, thus lessening the overall harm and complexity should a rescue be necessary.

We know many recreationalists head into the park specifically to get away from connectivity and distractions. In fact we often recommend our climbers keep their phones on ‘Airplane Mode’ to fully enjoy their climb. However, we feel the increased safety that comes with communication options far outweighs the negatives. As long as phones still have ‘Airplane Mode’ and individuals want to get away, finding the joys of the wilderness is still possible at Mount Rainier!

Please visit the NPS Project Planning Page listed below and give your voice to the discussion. The National Parks belong to all of us!

NPS Project Planning, 2016 Paradise Cellular Installation

Robert Jantzen

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Good Weather on Vinson

November 30, 2016

Warm Weather at C1 on a Previous Trip

Warm Weather at C1 on a Previous Trip

 

The ‘good start’ on Vinson continues.  Mike called yesterday afternoon and confirmed not only had the team done well on their first carry to C1 the day before but that, yesterday, they made the move and were putting finishing touches on that camp. He said it was the nicest day he could remember at that camp at this time of year.  Remember, it’s still earlier in the season and they’re camped around 10,000 ft.  Clear skies and no wind allows for lots of radiant heating.  You got to love it.

The plan is to ‘bite the bullet’ today and make a carry at least to the top of the fixed ropes above C1 and maybe higher.  Mike wants to get everything ready for the move to C2 (high camp) during this good weather.  Then, take a break back at C1 and when ‘signs say yes’, move quickly to high camp and summit.  That’s the plan.

Phil Ershler

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Denali Prep Seminars on Mount Rainier

November 29, 2016

A Denali Style Camp on Mount Rainier
Anchor Building and Crevasse Rescue
The Public Shelter in Winter
The Public Shelter in Winter

 

Are you looking for a real adventure this winter?  Do you only have week of availability?  Then the Denali Prep Seminar on Mount Rainier might be the perfect fit.   Every other week during the months of February, March, and April, IMG offers this one of a kind program.

The Denali Prep Seminar is a 6.5 day program that offers everything from winter camping skills, navigation training, sled hauling, anchor building, crevasse rescue training, fixed line work, avalanche science/rescue, and a whole lot more.  All of this takes place on one of the premier high altitude training mountains…Mount Rainier.

This program provides the opportunity to test what you are really made of.  During the six days on the mountain, you will experiencing many different weather systems.  Anything from heavy snow, wind, sun, and everything else you can think of.  This program offers the type of weather that climbers experience on Denali, as well as the other great mountains of the world.  If Denali is on your radar, you don’t want to miss this course.

If Denali is not in your sights, no worries.  The Denali Prep Seminar is a great fit for anyone who you want to see what winter mountaineering is all about.  It is also the perfect program for anyone who wants to expand their mountaineering skills toolbox.

Although this is not a “summit climb,” if weather allows and the avalanche conditions are suitable, we will give the summit a shot.  This is an added bonus to an already outstanding program!

If this sounds like something you are interested in, you can read more about it here:  http://www.mountainguides.com/rnr-denali.shtml

Hope to see you this winter!

Josh McDowell

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Getting Ready For Everest 2017

November 29, 2016

Charging the IMG Everest batteries at Gorak Shep, November 2016.

Charging the IMG Everest batteries at Gorak Shep, November 2016.

Ang Jangbu checked in from Kathmandu a couple of days ago to let us know that Ang Pasang and Nuru Gyalzen trekked up the valley to our gear storage room in Gorakshep to give our big batteries a charge.  They fired up a couple of our Honda generators to top up the dozen plus 12V batteries we use at Base Camp with our solar panels, communications, and lighting.  This will ensure that these batteries are in good shape for the upcoming 2017 Everest expedition.

That’s right, it is just after Thanksgiving and time will really move fast now.  We have a great group of guides, climbers and trekkers on board for this spring and I am looking forward to leading the expedition again.  Before long, I will be standing on the roof of our hotel in Kathmandu giving the briefing to everyone before we head to EBC!

On our agenda for the near future is shipping our oxygen tanks back to Nepal, shopping for food, and packing more tents and gear for the spring. In Nepal, the Sherpa Team is already taking stock of the gear and supplies that we will be sending up to Khumbu over the coming months.  The next exciting news will come when we claim our Everest Base Camp site on the glacier!

Greg Vernovage

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Vinson: Off To A Good Start!

November 28, 2016

Twin Otter at Vinson base camp

Twin Otter at Vinson base camp

Quick update this morning from “the Ice”.  Mike Hamill got on the sat phone last evening to let me know that the flight in, on the IL 76, went smoothly and that the team was able to transfer over to Vinson base camp soon thereafter.  The IL lands at the Union Glacier, about 80 degrees South.  The team then grabbed all the gear we leave on the Ice over the winter, had a great, hot meal served by the staff of ALE and then flew in one of the Twin Otters over to Vinson base camp – about 7,000 ft and about 79 degrees South.

I have no doubt they slept well last night after such a long day and getting their tents set up and camp established.  Mike said forecast looks favorable for a couple of days and that he’s planning on having the team make a carry to C1 today.  ‘When the fish are running, it’s time to go fishing’.

Nice start to the trip.

Phil Ershler

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First IMG Antarctica Team Ready to Fly Onto the Ice

November 27, 2016

The 2016/17 Vinson Massif season has begun.  Only a few potential ‘screw ups’ with arrivals, but at the end of the day, all’s well that ends well.  Everyone showed up in Punta in time and with all their luggage in tow.  Ideally, the team would have flown in the morning of the 26th, but flying onto the Ice with only a 24 hour delay ain’t bad.

IMG guide Mike Hamill with the first IMG Vinson team

IMG guide Mike Hamill with the first IMG Vinson team

Mike Hamill, for the umpteenth time, is again at the helm.  I always liked going in on the first Vinson expedition for the season.  Mountain is fresh, aircraft are in top shape and all the staff down in Antarctica are excited to get going.  A little chilly, typically, but it IS Antarctica, after all.

Follow along and see how it all unfolds.  The crew’s excited to go climb Vinson.

Phil Ershler

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IMG Climber Summits Chimborazo

November 25, 2016

Received the email below from Eric, one of our November Ecuador trip team members, who wanted to take a shot at Chimborazo after the regular trip.  Romulo was able to accommodate and Eric describes the results below.  Nice job, Eric!

Phil Ershler

———————————————————–

From: Eric Huang
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2016 8:48 AM
To: IMG
Subject: Ecuador

Hi, just a quick update on Chimborazo.

We set up high camp at 17700 ft just under the Castle yesterday morning. By 11pm Romulo and I started our traverse onto the southwest ridge. The snow line was reached at nearly 19000 ft, so the initial part was just on climbing boots without crampons. The weather was super nice, clear sky, just a little below zero with no wind at all. I was wearing a base layer and a medium insulation layer.

Romulo and Eric on the summit of Chimborazo (photo: Eric Huang Collection)
A new day on the furthest point from the center of the earth (photo: Eric Huang Collection)
Thumbs up from Eric (photo: Eric Huang Collection)


Starting from high camp obviously gave us a lot advantages. We took many 30 secs breath catching breaks and still manage to reach the Ventimilla summit at 4:40. It was still dark so we continued onto the main summit and by 5:15 Romulo and I stood on Whymper! We took some pictures and watched sun raise.

Romulo and I are off the mountain now and will have a celebration lunch. Romulo will drive me to airport tonight.

Thanks, and Happy thanksgiving!

Eric Huang, IMG Climber

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Kautz Glacier Route: A Mt. Rainier “Classic”

November 22, 2016

Climbers in the Kautz Ice Chute (Photo: to Pattie O’Rourke)
Kautz Route (Photo: Mark Ursino)
Kautz Route (Photo: Mark Ursino)

 

Mt. Rainier continues to be one of the most sought after climbing objectives in the United States.  For decades it has served as a place for people to “test out” mountaineering.  It has also served as the premier training ground for people preparing for expeditions to Alaska and the Himalayas.  Although it is the most heavily glaciated peak in the lower 48, with over 50 different climbing routes, the Disappointment Cleaver remains the most heavily used path to the summit.  Roughly 60% of climbers on Rainier use this route.

If you have climbed the Disappointment Cleaver Route, or are looking for something a little more challenging and off the beaten path, the Kautz Glacier Route might be exactly what you are looking for.

This Kautz provides great climbing, and is a true Mt. Rainier “Classic.”  It is a perfect fit for anyone with prior alpine climbing experience looking to increase their climbing skills.  The highlight of the climb is the 1000 foot Kautz Ice Chute.  It a 50-60 degree slope with a variety of exciting route options.  This section gives participants a chance to climb moderately steep ice, all while using more advanced climbing techniques.  Climbers often come away from this trip with a greater appreciation of what is possible in the mountains.  It is for all of these reasons that the Kautz Glacier Route is a guide favorite!

If this sounds like something you would be interested in, you can read more about it at the following webpage: http://www.mountainguides.com/rnr-kautz.shtml.

Hope to see you next summer!

Josh McDowell

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Ecuador: Hike up Pinchincha

November 22, 2016

Hiking on Pinchincha
Hiking on Pinchincha
Hiking on Pinchincha

 

Luke and most of the team arrived home today.  They wrapped up Monday with a hike up Pinchincha, outside of Quito  and a final dinner together in town before heading to the airport and flights home.   One member, Eric, wanted to make an attempt on Chimborazo so Romulo and he are off to do just that.  We’ll be wishing them good conditions and good weather.

Phil Ershler

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