Everest and Lhotse climbers reach Camp 3

May 11, 2024

Camp 3 and Nuptse (Paul Pottinger)

Porter and Phunuru report that the climbers had a nice day and have reached Camp 3 at about 24,000 feet. They got to plug in to their oxygen today and everyone enjoyed the magic of being able to catch their breath! Now they are resting comfortably at Camp 3, with an early departure tomorrow morning for the trip to the South Col. The goal for tomorrow is to get to the Col before noon, so they will have all afternoon to rest and hydrate in preparation for summit bids beginning the following night.

2024 IMG Denali Season Is Underway!

May 10, 2024

2024 IMG Denali Team Dale is OTD! (Peter Dale)

Denali season is officially underway for the 2024 season! This morning IMG Denali Team 1 (aka Team Dale) took off this morning from Talkeetna under blue skies and light winds. The team led by Peter Dale and Brad Swanson will be attempting the West Rib of Denali this spring.

IMG Denali Team 2 led by Riley Gilson (Team Gilson) has landed in Anchorage this morning and is commencing their gear check this afternoon. That team will be on the heels of Team Dale and (fingers crossed) flying onto the Kahiltna in the coming days.

IMG Denali Team 3 led by Justin Sackett (Team Sackett) is not far behind. The team will be meeting in Anchorage on Sunday!

We’re all systems GO in Alaska! Good luck to all climbers- climbing with other guide services, NPS rangers, and independent climbers. We want to wish everyone the best for a safe and successful climbing season in the Alaska Range!

The door is open on Everest

May 10, 2024

Looking up the Lhotse Face from near C3 (Adam Clark)

Looking down the Lhotse Face from near C3 (Adam Clark)

Ang Jangbu reports that the EOA fixing team reached the summit today, which is great news. Now the door is open for the various climbing teams to start heading up.

The IMG climbers had a smooth trip up the Icefall and yesterday everyone was ensconced at Camp 2. Today was a rest day for the team at Camp 2, and tomorrow morning the team will be moving up to Camp 3. This will be the beginning of the summit bid! We are following the weather reports closely, and it appears we still have a few more days of low winds.

Denali season kickoff 2024

May 8th, 2024

: Gear check Lakeside Hotel

: Foraker_Hunter_Denali from Talkeetna

Denali season is underway! Gear check with Guide Brad Swanson at the Lakeside Hotel. Tomorrow the team lead by Peter Dale will catch a early morning shuttle to Talkeetna. They will spend the day making final preparations before flying onto the Kahiltna Glacier via ski plane.

Everest and Lhotse climbers preparing to head up

May 8th, 2024

: Phunuru-demonstrates-the-oxygen-mask-Phunuru-Sherpa

: All-dressed-up-ready-to-go-Phunuru-Sherpa

The fixing Sherpas are aiming to establish the route to the summit of Everest in the next couple of days. Phunuru reports that the IMG climbing team is eager to get started! Today, the team practiced with their oxygen systems and fine-tuned procedures for use at high altitudes in very cold conditions, where all skin must be covered and masks and valves can freeze. The team will head to Camp 1 and Camp 2 in the next couple of days, depending on weather forecasts and the progress of the route fixing. We’ll keep you updated!”

Everest Update – May 6

May 6, 2024

Climber headlamps on Everest by moonlight (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Good news from Everest, the high winds of the past week have subsided and today the fixing team reached the summit of Lhotse, so that route is ready to go. Next up for them is fixing to the summit of Everest, which will hopefully occur in the next couple days. Ang Jangbu reports that today six IMG sherpas carried to Camp 2 and returned to Base Camp along with Sonam Tashi and Lhakpa Nuru who carried yesterday to the South Col in preparation for our summit bids. Lower down, the IMG climbers are moving back to Base Camp and they will all be back by tomorrow after several days of R&R down lower. So far so good at Mt Everest!

Spring Ama Dablam is a wrap

May 4, 2024

: Ama Dablam summit shot (Porter McMichael)

: Climbing along the ridge on Ama Dablam (Porter McMichael)

: On the way to Camp 2.7 on Ama Dablam (Porter McMichael)

: Porter and Giacomo (Ang Jangbu)

Ang Jangbu hiked down to Mingbo to meet up with Porter, Giacomo, Chhiring and Gyaljen. They were tired and happy after their very cool trip up Ama Dablam. It was fun to hear their tales and see some of the nice photos they came back with. Well done team!

Tomorrow their plan is to follow the resting IMG Everest climbers as everyone starts heading back towards Everest Base Camp for the upcoming summit bids. Hopefully the EOA fixing crew will be able to start working above the South Col in the coming days

Ama Dablam Summits!

May 3rd, 2024

Route-above-Camp-2-on-Ama-Dablam-Adam-Clark

The Ama Dablam team played their cards perfectly, ascending yesterday to Camp 2.7 in improving (but not perfect) weather, then enjoyed a perfect day today. They were up at 1am for an alpine start, and were climbing an hour later. The first part of the day was finishing off the top of the Mushroom Ridge, then the steep icy slopes of the Dablam Glacier above. Finally the summit ridge leads to an incredible 360 degree view for the ages. Porter says the conditions were good, with plenty of ice to keep things interesting. Descending from the summit they made it back to Camp 1, where they are spending the night. We look forward to seeing their summit photos when they get down to Mingbo tomorrow and can send them. Congrats to Porter, Giacomo, Chhiring and Gyaljen. Well done Team!

Ama Dablam climbers move up

May 2nd, 2024

Heading for high camp on the upper ridge of Ama Dablam

While the climbers on Everest were pinned down by another windy day up high, lower down the Khumbu valley the Ama Dablam team were able to move up to Camp 2.7. This camp is situated on the ridge between the traditional camps 2 & 3. Porter reports that they are doing OK, and that the wind has dropped off a bit. They’ll see how they are doing in the morning, and make a decision at that time whether to push for the summit.

Windy day on Everest and Ama Dablam

May 1st, 2024

Weather map May 1 2023

It’s the time of the season that everyone starts to pay close attention to the weather reports! Our custom weather forecaster says that the jet stream is moving across the Himalayas, with winds currently over 100 knots at the summit of Everest. Ang Jangbu reports from Everest BC that most of the IMG climbers have descended down to Pangboche for a few days of rest at lower altitude. Up on Everest, we’ve heard that some teams lost their big tents at Camp 2. Our sherpas at Camp 2 have kept our camp from blowing away, thanks to their hard work! Down at Ama Dablam, Porter McMichael says the team had a smooth trip up to Camp 1 today, and that they are tucked in, protected from the wind and doing well, but that up higher it is blasting. Hopefully it will start diminishing tomorrow!