On to the Dzong

October 7, 2018

Today we traveled the 240km from Shigatse to Shegar, along the Friendship Highway that goes all the way to the Nepal border. Before leaving Shigatse, though, we took a tour of the Tashilumpo Monastary, home of the Panchen Lama, who is sometimes referred to as number two to the Dalai Lama. Tashilumpo was actually the home of the first four Dalai Lamas, until the fifth one moved the seat of government to Lhasa and started building the Potala Palace in 1645. Tashilumpo is one of the nicest of the big Tibetan monasteries, and the blue sky and early morning sun made everything come alive visually for us.

Inside the Tashilumpo Montasary in Shigatse (Eric Simonson)

We then headed west, eventually climbing over the Tsuo La pass (4500m) before dropping down into the town of Lhatse, where we stopped for lunch. After that, we were climbing back up again to the summit of the Gyatso La pass (5267m or 17,275 ft) before we dropped again down to the Shegar valley at about 4000m. Along the way we had our first views of Mt. Everest which always sends a shiver up my spine.

Shegar is another of the very old Tibetan towns that has figured prominently in the Tibetan wars with Nepal. The Tibetans under the rule of the Quig Dynasty (the last of the Chinese imperial dynasties) built a series of forts (known as Dzongs) in the various towns near to Nepal. Gyantse and Shigatse also have Dzongs, but the one in Shegar is one of the coolest. It was built up on top of a mountain, with a fortified wall climbing to the summit. Despite the fortifications, it was not enough to stop the Nepalese Gurkha armies, which attacked Tibet and fought several campaigns 1788-92, pushing as far as Shigatse. A second war between Tibet and Nepal followed in 1855-56 where again the Dzongs figured prominently in the battles. Suffice to say, the border lands between Nepal and Tibet have not been a peaceful place!

This afternoon we hiked up above the old town of Shegar to get a nice view and see the famous Shegar Dzong up close. Wow, Shegar sure has changed from the sleepy little village I remembered to the bustling Chinese city it is now.

Shegar viewed from above the town (Eric Simonson)

Tomorrow we head over the famous Pang La Pass (with its world class view of the Himalaya) before dropping down and turning east to Kharta. We are getting close now to the beginning of our trek!

Eric Simonson