October 19, 2015
Pheriche with Cho Oyu and Lobuche (Tye Chapman)
IMG Guide Cedric Gamble is guiding in the Khumbu Valley for the first time. I take great joy in reading his short update to us. I felt like sharing this would be a great way to start the week! Cedric is a pretty good writer.
“The roads follow the rivers, as roads are apt to do; though no wheeled machines travel here. In places the road is no wider than a sidewalk and simply a dirt trail, and at other times it’s large enough for a truck and paved with carefully cut pavers. The engineering and construction is astounding when you remember everything was done by hand.
Up and down the stairs, across the steep slopes and over the rivers, the road is the lifeline for the Khumbu. The tinkle of bells tells you donkeys or horses are coming, and a much deeper ringing announces the approach of yaks. Porters carry loads, sometimes in flip flops.
The deep evergreen forests of the lower valley have yielded to sparser vegetation of rhododendron and juniper. Still the road plunges on and all along it visits villages large and small. The buildings are beautiful; made from granite bricks with colorful windows and doors. Small shops offer food and trinkets while the generous proprietors of larger tea houses provide room and board for trekkers.
Of course there are the mountains too. Snow and ice cling to impossibly steep faces of peaks that look so close they could topple down on top of you. Each morning they glow in greeting to the sun, and each afternoon they slowly don their cloaks of swirling cloud.
The Sherpa are the most amazing part of this place. They make a life in such a harshly beautiful mountain home, and are utterly happy and at peace. Even after the destruction of the earthquake last year, they are vigorously rebuilding and still welcoming Trekkers into their homes and tea houses. In kitchens with wooden sinks and fired stoves they cook delicious meals for large groups. Life moves at a slower pace here, but a pace more in tune with the mountains.
I feel very fortunate to be here. It is a special place, with very special people.†– Cedric Gamble
Greg Vernovage