June 1, 2014
Mt. Rainier. (Photo by Dustin Balderach)
Many of you have heard about the recent tragic accident on the Liberty Ridge route. We are deeply saddened by this event and our hearts go out to the families of the climbers and fellow guides.
An accident like this attracts a lot of media attention. It is common for our customers to raise questions about the accident and about the risks and mountaineering hazards on their upcoming climbs.
Here are a few of the FAQs.
Was IMG involved in the accident?
NO. IMG clients and guides were not involved in the accident. This accident involved one of the other highly respected and competent guide concessions operating under special permit from the National Park Service. IMG did provide the assistance of several guides for the Search and Rescue (SAR) operation until it was suspended.
What happened?
We may never know all of the details this event including how it happened. That said, it appears the team of 6 climbers fell, or was swept off, by snow, ice, or rock avalanche from high on the Liberty Ridge route. After SAR efforts by the NPS and Army Friday it is believed there are no survivors.
Is this unusual?
Yes. Mountaineering accidents are a well-known risk of the sport but the risk of an event of this magnitude is very rare. It is the 2nd most deadly mountaineering accident on Rainier.
The Liberty Ridge route is one of the most technically challenging climbs on Mt. Rainier and considered a classic in North America among serious mountaineers. The route is continuously steep exposed and committing. It is subject to the risk of objective hazards including snow avalanches, ice avalanches, and rockfall.
Does IMG guide Liberty Ridge?
Yes. We guide this route and have one climb of the route for this year scheduled for next week. We use highly experienced guides and the climb is only open to select climbers with advanced technical skill and stamina. This climb is conducted with an emphasis on safety including adding extra days to allow for weather and changing route conditions. All of our trips are subject to cancellation or may be turned around due to avalanche, weather, or other safety concerns.
The IMG owners in consultation with our guides are considering cancelling this climb. This decision will be separate from any decision based on route conditions or any safety concerns. This decision will be based what we feel is the best way of showing respect for the lost climbers. We also know that this would be a difficult time for our team under the pall of the recent tragedy.
Is my Rainier trip still on schedule?
Yes. All of our current climbing teams on the mountain are proceeding without issue. That said, our guides are continually evaluating all mountaineering hazards, including weather and route conditions. All IMG guides (and the IMG owners) will continue to make adjustments to a program’s itinerary including turning the climb around or even cancelling the trip when deemed necessary for your safety.
Will I be safe on my upcoming trip on Rainier with IMG?
IMG has a stellar mountaineering safety record. The risk of falling or encountering objective hazards is always present on a climb of Rainier. Overcoming these hazards is integral to the sport and characterizes its challenge and adventure.
No one can guarantee that a mountaineering accident will not happen. We must remain humble enough to recognize that these risks can only be minimized and never completely eliminated regardless of skill and experience.
Each individual climber must decide whether to accept the risks inherent in mountaineering.
What is the bottom line?
The good news is that the current overall fatality risk in climbing Rainier is less than 2 per 10,000 climbers. Even though that risk is very small the best way to further reduce that risk is to climb with an experienced competent guide service with a good track record.
IMG stands by its safety record that is second to none. We live by the adage “the summit is optional, returning to base safely is mandatoryâ€.
The bottom line is there is nothing more important to IMG than your safety.
Where can I go from here to learn more?
For more information about this accident we have provided the following link
http://www.king5.com/news/local/Official-Six-Rainier-climbers-likely-died-in-fall-261439191.html
http://www.kirotv.com/news/news/6-missing-reported-missing-mount-rainier/ngBQG/
If you have further concerns about an upcoming trip please don’t hesitate to call our office for more information.