Ama Dablam Climb Frequently Asked Questions

This information should answer many of your initial questions and also guide you through the next stages of preparing for the expedition. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us: office@mountainguides.com

Why should I climb Ama Dablam with IMG?

Climbing high peaks in the Himalaya is serious business. I am proud of the way we conduct ourselves, and I think we provide the best package available. I encourage you to contact me to discuss in person all the details of our programs. We know we're not the cheapest deal around, and we don't want to be. We spend more providing the best personnel, equipment, logistics and safety measures — things that many lower-cost programs cannot afford and do not have. We don't cut corners. As you shop around, consider the following:

• IMG leaders are professionals and are great teachers as well as strong climbers. All have done numerous high-altitude expeditions, including the Himalaya. Our clients enjoy the immense benefit of their leadership skill and expertise. We do not think you will find any other Ama Dablam climbing or trekking programs that will be led or staffed by persons of the caliber we will field for Ama Dablam. We challenge you to try!
• IMG always complies with all local, state, federal, and international regulations for the countries in which we climb. This includes proper visas and climbing permits, full insurance and equipment for our employees and Sherpa support teams, and complete adherence to all environmental regulations. Our great safety record allows us to operate with full liability insurance. All client funds are deposited in a regulated trust account. We take our business seriously!
• IMG Sherpas are top-notch. We hire the same great Sherpas every year, we treat them with respect, we pay them well and they like working with our teams. Most of them have been on many climbs with us over the years and many of them have multiple Ama Dablam summits. Many of them are now graduates of the Alex Lowe Sherpa Climbing School. Our enthusiastic cooks do a great job, and our menus are well considered. It makes a difference!
• IMG itineraries are longer than most others offered on the market. We know how to acclimatize properly, and we don't rush.
• IMG brings advanced technology to the mountain. We have both VHF and satellite communication. Solar power at Base Camp quietly supports our satellite communications, allowing us to maintain excellent emergency contact capabilities and keep friends and family informed of our progress during the long weeks away from home. IMG will post regular internet dispatches and/or send regular e mail updates to keep friends and families appraised of the climbers' progress.

How difficult is Ama Dablam?

How hard is Ama Dablam? You need to have solid rock-climbing and cramponing skills and be able to climb and rappel with a pack on. You'll be jumaring on fixed ropes. There are several short, steep sections of near vertical ice and rock on the spectacular ridge between Camp 1 and Camp 3 that require strength and technique. Up high on Ama Dablam climbers need to be ready for very cold temperatures and wind, so proper equipment is critical. Most importantly, you need good common sense and the ability to learn and adapt. On Ama Dablam climbers typically do not rope up to each other, but instead ascend and descend using fixed ropes. This allows climbers to move together but at the same time be semi-independent on the mountain between camps. We provide walkie-talkies to our climber/Sherpa teams so they can stay in contact with each other and the IMG staff who are available for consultation.

What kind of guide support can I expect?

The IMG Ama Dablam expedition will be staffed at an approximate ratio of 1:1 between team members and IMG staff climbers/climbing Sherpas. In other words, IMG western leader(s) plus Sherpas is approximately equal to the number of customers. The Sherpas will be deployed differently at different times during the climb for the best advantage of the team. When the climbers are down low, most of the Sherpas will be working on fixing rope, building camps, and carrying loads. As the climbing team moves up higher on the mountain, the Sherpas will be assigned to climb in support of the climbers.

What's unique about the IMG Hybrid Ama Dablam option?

Like our IMG Everest Hybrid Program, the IMG Hybrid Ama Dablam program adds an additional Personal Sherpa who will climb exclusively (1:1) with you. This individual, one of our top IMG Sherpa who has summitted Ama Dablam before, will climb with you above Base Camp. They will also assist with your load, you so you do not have to carry a heavy backpack while climbing.

How do I get there?

International Mountain Guides has worked for many years with the staff at CTT Destinations to provide professional travel service for participants in our programs. For help with your plans, we urge you to contact Pirjo DeHart at CTT Destinations: 425-831-0367 or pirjo.dehart@cttdestinations.com
Travel agencies may charge an additional fee for services.

What's included in the expedition fee?

Costs Included in Trip Fee:

• Transfers for international flights airport-hotel-airport
• Transfers for domestic flights hotel-airport-hotel
• Double occupancy hotels in Kathmandu for stated itinerary at beginning of the expedition
• All permit fees
• Liaison Officer
• Lukla fixed wing flight (roundtrip) including two duffels per person
• Complete trek service staying in lodges including meals (B/L/D)
• Complete base camp service including cooks and asst cooks
• Individual sleeping tents and mattresses at BC (Climbers will share tents above Base Camp)
• Group dining tent
• Access to medical gear
• Emergency O2 and Gamow bag
• Base Camp radio and walkie talkies
• Satellite phone available for $3.00/minute
• Sherpa support while climbing

Costs Not Included in Trip Fee:

• Flights from home to and from Kathmandu
• Travel expenses and hotels before the stated itinerary and in the event of unforeseen circumstances including weather delays
• Single supplement accommodations in hotels
• Hotels in Kathmandu at conclusion of expedition (we can assist making reservations)
• Personal gear
• Excess baggage charges
• Airport taxes and visas
• Sherpa tip pool (we suggest $500 per climber)
• Satellite telephone air charges
• Personal sundries and beverages
• Costs incurred as a result of delays or events beyond the control of IMG
• **Required Travel Insurance (medical, evacuation, trip cancellation, etc.)
• Customary but optional tips for IMG staff.

**What kind of insurance do I need?

IMG requires that all participants on International programs purchase Travel Insurance that includes coverage for medical evacuation, repatriation and medical expenses for the duration of their IMG program. We strongly recommend that you add Trip Cancellation coverage to your policy to cover cancellation (before trip starts) or interruption (after trip starts). For more information, please see our page on Trip Cancellation and Travel Insurance.

If you need assistance with the various insurance options, give Becky Kjorvestad a call in the IMG Office (360-569-2609) or email becky.kjorvestad@mountainguides.com

Note on end dates: Please extend your insurance policy to cover your trip until you return to your home country.

What kind of visas do I need?

Your passport must be valid for 6 months after the trip and have empty pages. Advanced visas are not required for entry into Nepal. We all take care of the necessary paperwork upon our arrival at the airport in Kathmandu. You will be charged approx. $50 for trekkers and $125 for climbers for the Nepal visa. You will also need a passport photo (2" x 2").

What immunizations will I need?

• Tetanus/Diphtheria: You should already have. Do you need a booster?
• Polio: You should already have. Do you need a booster?
• MMR: You should already have. Do you need a booster?
• Meningitis: Recommended. Consult your physician.
• Hepatitis A: Recommended. Consult your physician.
• Hepatitis B: Not a bad idea. Ask your physician.
• Cholera: Ask your physician. Not usually recommended any more.
• Typhoid: Not a bad idea to be safe. The tablet form, Vivotif Berna, is good for five years.
• Rabies: The new vaccine is easy. Kathmandu and Nepal have rabid animals.
• Malaria: No problem in Kathmandu, since we are above the zone of malaria, but if you plan on traveling to lower elevations in Nepal, or to certain parts of Thailand before/after the trip then malaria chemoprophylaxis is highly recommended.

We recommend that you visit the travel clinic at a major University Hospital or your local Public Health Department for the most up to date info on travel requirements, or check the Center for Disease Control Website at www.cdc.gov.

How does IMG treat their local staff?

We take great pride in the long term relationships we have built with our local staff. They do a great job, we pay and tip them well, and they enjoy working for IMG. We make sure that the IMG porters have adequate clothing, equipment, shelter, sleeping arrangements, food, cooking equipment and water. Sick or injured porters are properly cared for. All loads are weighed to ensure that porters are carrying loads that don't exceed their physical ability or legal limits. Porters are paid a fair wage for their work and are paid tip money directly from the tip pool at the end of the expedition (no middleman taking a cut).

What is the policy on Leave No Trace?

IMG is committed to Leave No Trace. All human waste is properly disposed of and garbage is sorted into burnable and recyclables (taken back to Kathmandu). All gas cylinders are taken back to Nepal and recycled, and all oxygen cylinders are returned to the USA.

What gear will I need?

The equipment list is meant to help you compile your personal gear for a high altitude climbing and trekking trip. Most items are required, while a few are optional. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items from your duffle. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by the expedition organizers. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear.

What food do I need to bring?

All meals on the climb and treks are included. You will be responsible for your bottled drinks and alcoholic beverages. You may want to bring powdered drink mixes for flavor in your water bottles. We recommend you bring a modest personal stash of your favorite trail and snack foods. There is a grocery store in Kathmandu near the hotel which has many snack items available (candy, crackers, nuts, etc). Not available in Kathmandu are things like Power Bars, Gu, or electrolyte replacement drink mix.

What's the best way to pack for the trip?

We usually carry a daypack/rucksack as carry-on luggage and check two lockable bags. One of those bags can stay at the hotel while climbing for storage of your travel clothes (it is OK to leave a bag with wheels at the hotel). The other bag will be used by the porters to carry your gear on the climb, and it should NOT have wheels. It does not have to be 100% waterproof, just stout nylon fabric is fine. You will want to put everything in plastic bags anyway, inside the duffel.

We suggest that you use a travel wallet that you can hang around your neck and place inside your shirt. This is a safer way to carry your money and travel documents. Leave expensive jewelry and watches at home. Experienced travelers will also carry a couple of extra passport photos with them as well as a photocopy of the first pages of your passport. These should be carried in a place separate from your passport. Having these available will greatly facilitate the replacement of your passport if you lose it. Carry a pen with you for completing travel forms. Get to the airport early and make sure your luggage gets checked through to the correct destination.

How much money should I bring?

As soon as you get to Kathmandu you will need your visa fee ($50 for trekkers and $125 for climbers) and then at the hotel we will collect your Sherpa tip pool contribution (we suggest $500 for climbers).

In addition to the tip pool and visa, we suggest $500 more, plus a credit card. You are better to have extra cash money and not need it than to need it and not have it! For your cash, bring new style bills (with the big faces) including some $10's and $20's. You can get a limited number of rupees each day in Kathmandu at a cash machine with your credit card, but you won't get dollars. You can change cash money into rupees at the hotel, and there are numerous money changer shops nearby. NOTE: everybody checks your money for counterfeit and no one takes old bills (bring NEW style US bills, not old style). Merchants will often try to give you ripped bills (rupees) for change. Tell them you want an un-ripped one, otherwise you'll never be able to spend it. You will probably want to change $100 into rupees (get small bills) to carry on the trek for stopping at the tea houses, shopping in Namche, etc. Climbers who choose to go down to Pheriche for rest and relaxation will need some additional money for this (estimate $35 per day). You will probably want another $100 for spending in Kathmandu for food and gifts. It is difficult to change money once the trek starts. Bring the rest of the money with you in case of emergency. If you have extra left over rupees at the end of the trip that are unspent, change them back before you leave Nepal, otherwise you will not be able to change them once you leave the country.

We prefer cash, but you will probably also want to bring a credit card too, but remember that you will likely get hit by your bank with 3% fees on foreign credit card purchases. If you plan to use your credit card you should call your bank and let them know you will be traveling abroad, otherwise using it might trigger a fraud alert on your account which results in your card getting turned off.

How does the tip pool work?

We will collect for a tip pool, and ask the Ama Dablam climbers to please contribute $500. We will collect this in Kathmandu and distribute this after the trip on behalf of the team as a thank you gift to the many unsung people that make the whole operation run smoothly: the porters, trek staff, cooks and helpers, hotel staff, Kathmandu staff, climbing Sherpas, and others. You may also wish to provide additional tip to your Sherpas and IMG staff.

What if I want to leave early?

No problem, we will organize a porter for you, and you can hike back to Lukla. The porter will carry your duffel bags. We will provide a stipend to cover your lodges and meals on the hike out. Our staff at Lukla will meet you, arrange tickets, and assist you to make the flight to Kathmandu.

How do my duffel bags get back to Kathmandu?

We will hire porters to carry your duffels back to Lukla, where they will be flown to Kathmandu.

How much of my gear will the Sherpas carry?

The Sherpas will carry a reasonable amount of your personal gear for you up to the camps. For example — your sleeping bag, down suit, extra high altitude gear, some food and snacks, etc. You should not have to carry a big load at any time on the trip — we want you to be able to move at a reasonable speed. You will need to carry with you the things you require during the day: clothes, snacks, water, camera, etc.

What service does the Himalayan Rescue Association (HRA) provide at Base Camp?

IMG is a longtime supporter of the work of Dr. Luanne Freer and her doctor staff at EBC (www.basecampmd.com) IMG will pay to have all IMG members (including sherpas) subscribed to the HRA clinic consultation service. The HRA docs are available for consultation throughout the expedition. Certain medications and services are also available for sale by HRA.

What if a rescue is necessary?

Our first priority is always going to be supporting our fellow IMG climbers. We are also willing to assist with other teams that need help with rescue, but this will take second priority to our IMG climbers. Any rescue above Base Camp will require a ground litter evacuation (no helicopter above BC). At and below BC the cost of a helicopter evacuation depends on the type of helicopter involved, the amount of flight time, and the number of landings. The Eurocopter AS350 helicopter costs $2500 per hour (2011 rate) and an evacuation from Base Camp will take at least 3 hours. We REQUIRE that everyone carry a rescue insurance policy that will as a minimum cover $10,000. You will need either cash or a Visa/Mastercard with sufficient credit available (not American Express) since you may need to guarantee the charge on your credit card and then seek reimbursement from your insurance company.

What do I do with my passport and plane ticket while I am climbing?

We suggest that you leave these items with our staff in Kathmandu, so it is easy for them to change your tickets or extend your visa for you while you are climbing.

What other medical info should I consider?

While it's always nice to have a doctor as a participant on our trips, we cannot guarantee a doctor's presence. We ask that you carefully complete the Medical Information form included in the registration materials. We need to be informed of any allergies you may have, medicines you are currently taking and any medical conditions that could possibly effect your ability to safely participate on a climbing expedition.

In addition to the first aid items listed on the equipment list, there are a few additional medications that you should consider. These should be discussed with your personal physician and some will require a prescription. We want everyone to bring two regimens of the antibiotic azithromycin ("Z-Pak") and some Immodium in case of bad traveler's diarrhea. A sleeping medication can be useful for napping on the international flights and for the first few days in Nepal (due to the big time change). We do not recommend the automatic use of Diamox while climbing but you might find a small dose (125mg) useful if altitude sickness symptoms appear. Discuss this and your other medication requirements with your physician. Any medication should be used only if necessary and use should be discussed thoroughly with your physician and with your guide before you take the medication.

Water purification is also very important. An effective and inexpensive method is the use of iodine crystals or tablets. These are available commercially at mountaineering stores as a product called 'Polar Pure' or 'Potable Agua'. Filters, such as the ones made by MSR, are also good. Either can be used or both can be used in combination. On the trek our recommendation is to plan on treating your water bottle water with an iodine tablet (Potable Aqua) or other purification method. You can buy bottled water in Kathmandu, but we do not encourage you to buy bottled water on the trek since the bottles are garbage and constitute an environmental issue. If you want to buy boiled water at the lodges for your water bottles, you should bring some extra money. We also recommend that each participant bring a small bottle of a hand disinfectant such as Purell. Anything that we can do to stay healthy is worthwhile. Health issues will be discussed during the expedition and we encourage you to contact us if you have any questions before or during the trip.

Do I really need to bring the high altitude medications Nifedipine and Dexamethasome?

Our IMG guides are very experienced with dealing with altitude illness, but we are not allowed to provide prescription drugs to our customers. For this reason we ask each climber to consult with their own physician and to bring their own emergency medications to use (while descending!) in case of onset of high altitude pulmonary or cerebral edema symptoms. These include Nifedipine and Dexamethasome, which will help to "buy some time" to get down to a lower altitude. The Nifedipine is useful for pulmonary edema (take one 30mg sustained release tablet every twelve hours) and the Dexamethasome is useful for cerebral edema (take one 4mg tablet every 6 hours). Our suggestion is that climbers each bring a few tablets of each medication (2 tabs of Nifedipine and 4 tabs of Dex is plenty) and that should be sufficient to provide one day of treatment so the patient can get down, if they start to get sick. For more information see this recent article in WILDERNESS & ENVIRONMENTAL MEDICINE, 21, 146-155 (2010).