IMG Chopicalqui and Pisco Climbs Itinerary
Day 1:
Overnight flight from USA to Lima; arrive early morning the next day in Lima. Depending on your flight plans, you may want or need to overnight in Lima.
Day 2:
We'll pick most trekkers and climbers up at the airport after their early-morning arrival, and then travel from Lima to Huaraz. There's a modest place for breakfast just out of town if you're hungry for breakfast. After a drive through the pacific desert, we'll stop for lunch or snack along the way. During our 7-8 hour drive, other stops will include a visit to a fresh fruit stand where it's possible to purchase some exotic treats for the day. Our travels will take us over a 13,000'+ pass, and back down again to Huaraz (10,000'), our base of operations for the trip. After a short rest, we'll have dinner and a quick orientation for our next day. Overnight in Huaraz.
Chopicalqui Climbers who were on the Cordillera Huayhuash Trek: For those trekkers who are staying longer and have joined our Chopicalqui climb, this will be a well-earned rest day in Huaraz. We will also use this time to pack up for the climbing expedition and make preparations for our departure the next morning.
Day 3: Acclimatization hike
An acclimatization and sightseeing day. After breakfast in our hotel, we'll travel by van into the Cordillera Negra, the 'black' mountain range that sits opposite of the Cordillera Blanca, the 'white' mountain range. From the Negra, there is an awesome overview of the Blanca and all its grandeur. There are a couple of hiking options in the Negra, so we'll decide while in Huaraz what fits best for our group. If we do the longer option, we'll start from the trailhead at Punta Callan (13,100'), where we'll walk down to Huaraz for 3 to 4 hours on an ancient Incan trail. Prior to dinner, we'll organize our gear for the trek, and prepare for our departure in the morning. Overnight in Huaraz.
Day 4: Acclimatization hike
After breakfast, we'll do some more packing in preparation for our climbing expedition, and also pack for another day hike. Like the day before, there are many options. One option is a hike to Lago (Lake) Churup, which starts with transport in cars/van to Pitec, at 12,467', and then hike for 3-4 hours to the lake, an incredibly beautiful area located at 15,091'. There are other worthy options, and we'll decide the night before what's best for our group. After lunch during the trek, our group will descend and return to Huaraz to further help our acclimatization. We'll relax here, have dinner, and then prepare for our Pisco and Chopicalqui climb, which will start the next day.
If we have Huayhuash trekkers on our Chopicalqui climb, we will select some alternative hikes for our team so you won't repeat hikes; there's lots to pick from!
Day 5: Pisco day 1—Huaraz to Pisco Base Camp
Up early for breakfast, and then travel by private bus for 3 hours to the Pisco trailhead. After heading north for an hour on the main highway, we turn into the mountain and head into the Quebrada Llanganuco, or Llanganuco Valley. With impressive views of Huascarán, the highest mountain in Peru, standing at 22,205', Chopicalqui is actually a separate peak of the Huascarán massive—a huge expanse of glacier and granite. Quebrada Llanganuco is an incredible glacier-carved valley that cuts along-side of Huascarán and Chopicalqui, and driving along the valley floor we'll pass by two large lagoons, or lakes. They're a beautiful blue color which stands in contrast to the steep-walled glacier carved granite that stretches thousands of feet above the valley floor. You really need to see it for yourself!
After arrival at our drop-off area for Pisco, we'll need to work as a team to shuttle our gear into the base camp area, about a 10-minute walk from the vans. Our camp at 12,800' will be placed in the base camp meadow area known as Cebollapampa, our home for the next two nights. First, we'll set up our sleeping tents, allowing us to move into the tents with little effort. The rest of camp will come together in time and our expedition routine begins... woohoo!
We'll migrate to the dining tent for our usual afternoon tea and snacks. Often there's time in the afternoon for a short nap, reading, or some easy walks around our beautiful alpine camps. No doubt there will be many opportunities to take incredible pictures from nearly every camp on this trip. Dinner will follow, with a recap of our day and a review of the plan for the following day.
Our primary goals today: Establish base camp and get into the active-rest routine. Do a little; rest a little, and repeat. Not doing too much work or activity upon arrival at new higher camps is key for solid acclimatization, no matter how good you feel. On the same level, total inactivity when in camp can set you up for problems, too, so it's a matter of balance between activity and rest. Your trip leader will remind you of these keys for success throughout the expedition.
Day 6: Pisco day 2—Acclimatization Hike/Return to Pisco Base Camp
Our first morning in the mountains will start slow, with fresh, warm water for washing that's presented at climbers' tents with our wake-up call, along with tea or coffee. After a hearty breakfast, our team will pack up for a day hike to Laguna 69, a 3-4 hour trip up the valley.
The views of the area expand as we climb higher, and Chacraraju, a summit over 20,000', towers over the lake. We'll also see Yanapacha, another beautiful Cordillera Blanca summit. The trek to the 15,088' lake is one of the 'best day-hikes' in South America, so you won't be disappointed. The return to camp will take about half our up time, and we'll return by mid-afternoon. After a short rest, we may sort some gear for our trip to our first camp on Pisco. Dinner will follow shortly, and then we'll hit the sack early.
Note: Many of the land features, mountains, lakes, and areas, are named in the local Quechan language. Our local guides will help translate and pronounce for our group throughout the trip.
Day 7: Pisco day 3—Pisco Base Camp to Camp One
We'll rise with the sun around 6:30 with our usual morning routine, have breakfast, and then pack up for our trip to our first camp on Pisco. Mules will assist our move of group and personal gear to our camp, so climbers will be able to walk along with trekking shoes and light packs.
The primary goal of the trip, Chopicalqui, will become visible over our shoulders, and help motivate us as we appreciate the view.
The hike to camp will take 3-4 hours, and upon arrival, we'll re-erect our traditional base camp with the help of our porters. Our base camp consists of a cook/dining tent, bathroom tent, and sleeping tents—and incredible views.
After a warm meal, we'll rest for a bit, and then pack for the climb of Pisco. There will be some time in the afternoon for a visit to the local refugio, and time to take in the views. Dinner will shortly follow.
Day 8: Pisco day 4—Camp One to Moraine Camp
Up again with the sun, we'll have breakfast and wrap-up our packing. By mid-morning, we'll begin our trek to our high camp, better known as "Moraine Camp." With assistance from our porters, we'll make short work of the three hour move to camp with moderate packs (30-35lbs). After tents are set-up, we'll make final preparations for our climb, and hit the sack early after dinner.
Day 9: Pisco day 4—Summit day!
After a mid-night or 1AM wake-up call, we'll have a warm breakfast and then depart for the summit of Pisco. The route is easy along the rock slabs that lead to the glacier, and from there, it's a moderate glacier climb to a key crevasse that will likely require a belay. Your guides will lead the short pitch of moderate ice, and climbers will follow with two climbing tools. It sounds steep, but with the guidance of your leaders, it'll be very doable.
After a short break at the top of the ice wall, it's a rolling, ascending glacier climb to the summit, much like Mt. Rainier. The 4-5 hour climb to the summit is a moderate effort, and the payoff is huge. Views from the summit are simply incredible, with Huascarán, Chopicalqui, Artesonraju, Alpamayo, and many other Cordillera Blanca peaks stretching out the vista for miles.
After some time on Pisco's summit, we'll descend to the Moraine Camp, rappelling the ice pitch on the way down. It won't take much time to reach camp. After a break, our trusty porters will assist with the return to Camp One. A warm meal will await, along with smiles from our cook. Yes, it'll be a long day, but a day worth the effort. We'll fall into bed for a good night sleep.
Day 10: Chopicalqui day 1 — Pisco Camp 1 to Base Camp, then to Chopi Base Camp
From Pisco Camp One, we'll descend to Cebollapampa, consume some cold drinks and celebrate our success. Mules will assist with the move, so the trip will go easy. It won't take long.
We'll shuttle climbers and guides from base camp up the road in a van to the Chopicalqui trailhead—some may opt though, to walk the short distance with our mules. It's a short hike to Chopi base camp (13,776') from there; no more than an hour, and that will leave the afternoon to rest and sort gear for the next day. We'll be off to bed early.
Day 11: Chopicalqui day 2 — Chopi Base Camp to Moraine Camp
Sleep in, finish organizing gear, and climbers and porters will depart by noon for our first camp on Chopicalqui. The ascent is over a lateral and terminal moraine, and then heads up a steep lateral moraine to camp. Ascent time to our camp at 16,072' will take 4-5 hours. Camp will be placed under some cliffs, near the glacier. Porters will also assist with setting up tents and help with meal preparations.
Day 12: Chopicalqui day 3—Moraine Camp to Camp One
Climbers will ascend to high camp in 4-5 hours and prepare for the summit climb the next day. The climb to camp is up some morainal rubble, and after roping up, the team will climb the glacier, at times with short steep sections up to 45 degrees. We will need to take some long end-runs around large crevasses once we hit the easier glacier. This will take us to a camp at 17,548'. Any extra time at this camp will be spent resting in preparation for the summit.
Day 13: Chopicalqui day 4— Summit Day on Chopi: Descend to Moraine Camp
Today our team will awake early, dress, eat a quick breakfast and then rope-up and begin our climb around 3AM. The climb is primarily up glacier, end-running crevasses, and then finishing with a climb along the Southwest ridge. Along the ridge we may use running belays, or perhaps belay climbers as needed. Slopes vary in terms of steepness. The final ascent to the summit may be over a large crevasse, demanding a steep 60-degree snow and ice climb to the summit. Climb time to the summit will be around 7-9 hours.
We'll spend no more than an hour on the 20,847' summit, resting and taking hero shots, and taking in the expansive Cordillera Blanca range.
On the descent, we may rappel on descent to more walkable terrain. We'll descend to our high camp, and then porters will help us haul our group gear down to our moraine camp. Total descent time from Chopi to camp 1 is about 4-6 hours, and then about an hour to moraine camp. This will be the longest day of our Chopicalqui expedition, about 14-18 hours—and you'll be ready for it! Eat a quick dinner and then drop into bed!
Day 14: Chopicalqui day 4 — Chopi Moraine Camp to Base Camp: Transfer to Huaraz
From moraine camp, our team will descend to base camp, pack up, and then take the short walk back to the road. Our transportation will show up shortly afterwards, and we'll make the drive back to Huaraz. Time to the trailhead will be around 3-5 hours.
We'll wrap up our Chopicalqui summit climb with a dinner in town, and prepare for our trip home.
Day 15:
We may have some time for some early morning shopping before our departure for Lima, an 8-hours+ drive to the airport. We'll stop along the way for some breaks and snacks, then make our way to the airport for late flights home.
Day 16:
Our climbing team arrives home this day, with reunions with family and friends. Celebrate life!