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Chopicalqui and Pisco Climbs Peru
Gear List

IMG Chopicalqui and Pisco Climbs Gear List

This equipment list is meant to help you compile your personal gear for the trek and optional climb. Most items are required; if you plan to leave something behind, please alert IMG before leaving it home, or better yet, bring it, and let's decide to take or leave it while in the hotel. Please consider each item carefully and be sure you understand the function of each piece of equipment before you substitute or delete items. Keep in mind that this list has been carefully compiled by IMG to give you the best experience in Peru. Don't cut corners on the quality of your gear.

FOR THE TREK
FEET:
[  ]Medium to medium heavy weight waterproof trekking boots — with suitable ankle-high ankle support; make sure whatever you wear is broken in and very comfortable; if leather, treat the boot multiple times with waterproofing). If synthetic, treat with a waterproof boot spray.
[  ]You will need double Climbing Boots with expedition liners on these climbs; it can be very cold when standing at belay or rappel stations, and the snow on Chopicalqui can be extremely cold. Our pace is measured and slow on the summit days, so keeping your feet warm at 6,000 meters is important. There are lots of choices out there; Koflach, Scarpa, Boreal, and La Sportiva all make excellent models. Your lead guide will check with you before departure to make sure you have an appropriate climbing boot for this trip.
[  ]Wool or wool/synthetic blend socks (4 complete changes; that would be 2 for Pisco, and 2 for Chopi) o You may want to bring 2 more sets of fresh socks to use with your trekking boots
[  ]Larger gaiters, to fit climbing boots. It's very common to have deep snow on Chopi, and gaiters are likely needed in the conditions we'll experience. Often times we avoid gaiters these days; on Chopi, you'll want them for the deep snow and cold.

LOWER BODY:
[  ]Long john bottoms (1 pair, lightweight wool or synthetic)
[  ]Underwear (2-3 pair for trail use); hand washable and quick drying are best
[  ]Lightweight to medium weight stretch nylon hiking/soft shell climbing pants, Schoeller type fabric is preferred.
[  ]Waterproof/breathable pants (with full length side leg zips)
[  ]Lightweight synthetic insulated pants (optional; for camp use—the Outdoor Research "Neoplume" pants are very comfy and help retain heat while resting at camps). Maybe take up Chopi.

UPPER BODY:
[  ]Long john top (1 lightweight— zip neck is best)
[  ]Soft shell or fleece jacket.
[  ]Bring a second lightweight fleece layer, or vest, or Primaloft jacket.
[  ]Waterproof/breathable jacket with attached hood. Avoid zip-on or snap-on hoods.
[  ]Warm down or synthetic parka with attached hood (on the warm side, and not too light)
[  ]T-shirt (synthetic is best)
[  ]Sun hoody or button-down sun shirt (optional)

HEAD AND HANDWEAR:
[  ]Synthetic or wool hat
[  ]Sun hat or baseball cap
[  ]Neck gaiter. Also consider a Balaclava
[  ]Wool or fleece gloves
[  ]Ski Gloves: A warm insulated glove with leather palm (treat with waterproof tech spray)
[  ]Chemical hand warmers; 4 sets for cold mornings
[  ]Mittens: Fleece mittens with an over-mitten. Nothing compares with a mitten for warmth at higher altitudes. Chances are you won't need them, but these could be critical if you get cold during the summit climb.

SLEEPING:
[  ]Sleeping bag (down or synthetic, down to 0-15°F, compression stuff bag)
[  ]Therm-a-Rest pad. IMG will provide a closed cell full-length foam pad (you'll use your Therm-a Rest and the pad for supreme comfort!)

CLIMBING GEAR:
[  ]Ice Axe: A 60-70 cm—Make sure it's designed for STEEP climbing and will stick easily in hard-steep glacier ice. Attach a light weight wrist leash that is usable for climbing steeper terrain. A lightweight aluminum ice axe is not a good choice for this trip. Suggested models: Black Diamond Viper or Petzl Sum'Tek.
[  ]ONE climbing tool (45-55 cm) with leash designed for ice climbing.
[  ]12 point Crampons: These must be sharp and fit your boot perfectly, and tested for climbing on steep ice
[  ]Lightweight alpine climbing harness: Make sure the buckle is easy to thread in cold conditions! Gear loops will be useful for this, as well as adjustable leg loops. Make sure your harness is NOT more than 5-years old; if so, please buy a new lightweight one.
[  ]Lightweight climbing helmet: Required. Be sure you can comfortably fit a warm hat underneath, and confirm if your headlight will fit on the helmet using the built-in clips.
[  ]Hardware: Bring 4 locking and 3 lightweight regular carabiners (something like the BD 'Oz'). It is helpful if at least two of the locking carabiners have a "key gate", like the Petzl Attache 3D (a lightweight locking pear-style carabiner).
[  ]Other gear: One 48" x 1" NYLON sewn loop; one 24" SPECTRA sewn loop. Please also bring 20' of 7 mm Perlon; we will tie some other loops in our hotel that will be used on the climb.
[  ]For rappelling, the Black Diamond ATC Guide is a good choice since it can handle ropes from 7.7mm to 11mm. Let your lead guide know if you plan to bring something else.
[  ]Avalanche Transceiver: an avalanche transceiver may be required for your climb. If you are providing your own beacon, it must meet industry standards. IMG will make the decision based on current conditions for your upcoming climb. *available for rent from IMG.*

TREK/CLIMB MISCELLANEOUS:
[  ]Pack (medium size, internal frame, in the range of 55-60 liters. Top loading works best. Look for a pack which is comfortable to carry, light, and one which has a minimum number of bells and whistles.)
[  ]Adjustable ski poles (please bring both poles; they are a great item to have when you're fatigued or need some extra help stepping up or down large rocks and other obstacles; also nice to have along if you twist an ankle)
[  ]Extra-large stuff sacks (2; for packing clothes and bulk of personal lunch; to keep things organized and dry in your duffle bag); line each of your larger storage stuff bags with a kitchen or larger garbage can sized plastic bag to increase the waterproofness.
[  ]Medium stuff bag (for daily lunch; to be carried in your pack)
[  ]Sunglasses (1 pair dark pair; plus retainers, i.e. Chums). Extra eye glasses or contacts?
[  ]Lightweight goggles w/no fog cloth
[  ]Sun cream (1 full bottle; 50+ SPF protection); Also, a small tube of sunscreen for climbing
[  ]Lip protection (with high SPF). Put your lip protection on a string and hang it from your neck; that way you'll use it. It also works great for your nose.
[  ]Include a small Swiss Army utility knife. A Leatherman C4 or lighter is perfect.
[  ]Water bottles (2 wide mouth 1 qt. Nalgene type bottles; a water hydration system can substitute for one bottle)
[  ]Toilet paper (2 large rolls in zip-lock bag); plus personal hygiene wipes;
[  ]Small hand sanitizer, plus a small plastic bottle of biodegradable liquid trail soap
[  ]Garbage bags (5-6 large, heavy duty; 30+ gal; use these to line your pack and all of your large stuff bags; it's an excellent way to keep your gear dry. At camps, put your boots in one. Extra bags are ALWAYS GOOD!)
[  ]Bright Headlight (LED with fresh batteries, plus 2 spare sets).
[  ]Potable Agua tablets for water purification (1 bottle of 50 tablets, or, lightweight personal water purification device—make sure you know how to use it, and what it filters; must filter viruses and use iodine to be 100% effective. We will boil water each evening, and that usually suffices for most uses, but please treat your drinking water if inclined)
[  ]Personal items (for trek): Toothbrush & paste, small travel washcloth and towel. Small antiperspirant (optional). Only a small amount of lightweight personal items should be taken on the climbs, while the rest of it will be left at our base camps.
[  ]Day pack (highly recommended for air travel & general touring — lightweight with few frills, top loading is best). Leave at the hotel while on the trek; you won't need it
[  ]Lunch (for on and off mountain, to supplement provided lunches). Please bring a variety of foods weighing in total no more than 5 lbs. Lunch ideas include: string cheese, beef jerky, dried fruit, candy bars, energy bars, hard candies, nuts, electrolyte replacement drink mix (several quarts repackaged into a Ziploc bag), 4 quarts worth of performance powdered power drink mix for your harder days. Salty snacks are often appreciated. Please also bring a total of 8 GU's for our climbs (4 for each climb). o Note: While trekking to base camps, and for our first day climbing out of our base camps, you will be provided a small daily lunch bag by our local cooks, which usually consists of a simple sandwich, piece of fruit, some cheese, sometimes a boiled egg, and a couple of candies.
[  ]Eating utensils: Bring a lightweight mug, a decent sized lightweight bowl, and spoon. It is nice to have a small stuff sack OR ZIPLOCK bag to keep them clean. Consider taking just a large mug to be used for drinking and eating out of, to save weight. Or, consider one of the flat "Fish" bowls that can also serve dual purpose for those wanting to save more weight.
[  ]First aid kit (To cover your personal needs only); Band-Aids, 1" roll of athletic tape, moleskin, non-prescription pain meds and anti-inflammatory drugs such as Advil. Three-inch-wide Ace bandage. Cough drops (10). Pepto Bismol tablets are helpful for dealing with minor stomach distress. Imodium is an effective over the counter aid for diarrhea. Consult with you doctor about the trip and travel at altitude and bring any recommended prescription drugs in original prescription bottles.
[  ]Prescription Medications to Highly Consider:
  1. Antibiotic for respiratory and GI problems (azithromycin "Z-Pak")
  2. Diamox (acetazolamide) for acclimatization (125 mg tabs recommended; enough for a week; normal prescription is 125 mg twice per day. Don't bring the 500 mg tabs; they are not for altitude use.)
  3. Asthma medication, if any history
  4. For serious illness on high altitude expeditions/long high altitude treks, standard treatment protocol is immediate descent and if necessary: Nifedipine for Pulmonary Edema (we suggest 30mg time release tablets — bring a couple tablets), and Dexamethasone for cerebral edema (bring a few 4mg tablets)
  5. Avoid sleeping pills of any kind while on the trek or trek extension.


TRAVEL MISCELLANEOUS:
[  ]Passport/Visa. United States and Canadian citizen will be provided a visa upon entry. Other citizens should check the Peruvian Consulate website for information about their visa requirements.
[  ]International shot record
[  ]Money ($250 for the local staff tips, plus $300-500 for misc., drinks, some meals, travel, and gifts. Bring some smaller bills, a couple of $5's and some $10's to help make the tip division easy, the rest in $20 works well) ATM's are available in Huaraz.
[  ]Make sure all your US bills are in good shape, of the NEW STYLE, with no tears, ink markings or excess wear; warn or old bills may not be accepted
[  ]Credit cards (be sure to notify your card company you'll be using it out of country prior to departure on your trip so merchants don't decline your international purchases; bring a second credit card as back-up)
[  ]Money belt/neck pouch
[  ]Running/tennis shoes/low-top trekking shoes (use as travel and camp shoes, up to base camps)
[  ]Flip-flops/Chacos (hotel use and camp)
[  ]Socks; cotton or synthetic, for travel (3)
[  ]Small bag of liquid biodegradable soap (for clothes; take this up to our base camps, too)
[  ]Underwear for travel (3-4); hand washable is nice and easy
[  ]Cotton pants or synthetic travel pants (2)
[  ]Toiletries for travel (be sure to keep it light here).
[  ]Dress shirts (1-2)
[  ]T-shirts or short sleeve travel shirts (2-3)
[  ]Large duffel bag (to fit trekking pack and other gear during air travel, and during the trek this duffel bag will be used to contain your sleeping bag and extra gear—which is carried on a mule. Don't forget a small TSA combination lock)
[  ]Second large duffel bag (for air travel and to store gear at hotel; TSA lock)
[  ]Ear plugs (2-3 pair; for air travel and sleeping while camping)

Clothing Notes: Easy-wash travel clothing is convenient, as are jeans and non-flashy shirts. Cotton for trail use is generally DISCOURAGED. Avoid bright colors or super flashy clothing that mark you as a tourist. Huaraz is "tourist and mountain friendly" so being a tourist doesn't create any problems or attract unnecessary attention; it's a good idea to dress-down. Avoid skimpy clothing or short shorts so we don't offend the locals.

OPTIONAL
[  ]Hiking shorts (nylon hiking style is best. Best of all are the nylon zip-off hiking pants)
[  ]Diary, pen and pencil
[  ]IPod or portable music player. Consider bringing a small solar panel to charge your player.
[  ]Books. Plan on doing some trading/sharing!
[  ]Camera(s), extra storage media cards and extra batteries
[  ]Thumb drive for swapping pictures; if we have time at the end of the trek in the hotel

Diablo Mudo Trek Climbers — Please Add:
[  ]Double Climbing Boots with expedition liners. Make sure your crampons are adjusted to fit them! Some single boots may be sufficient for the climb, BUT please run this past your lead IMG guide. It can be cold on the summit climb. With a nice day, one may climb in boot similar to a La Sportiva Trango, BUT, if it's a slow climb, or you get cold easily, this may present a warmth issue and you may have to turn back short of the summit. A boot similar to the Boreal Khangri or Latoks, La Sportiva Batura or the Scarpa Phantom Guide may be better for some climbers (they are insulated single boots). Make sure you train and climb with your boots prior to the trip.
[  ]Regular length gaiters to fit your climbing boots
[  ]Ice Axe: A 60 to 70 cm length with a basic wrist loop will work well. A lightweight aluminum ice axe will work for this climb.
[  ]12 Point Crampons that are adjusted to your boots
[  ]Basic climbing harness and 2 locking carabiners
[  ]Climbing Helmet: Required. Be sure you can comfortably fit a warm hat underneath
[  ]For rappelling, the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Alpine. While we will likely NOT need this, it may come in handy on occasion
[  ]One 48" x 1" NYLON sewn loop

Chopicalqui/Artesonraju Climbers — Please Add:

There will obviously be some cross-over between gear for Diablo Mudo and Chopicalqui/Artesonraju; please figure how what gear you will use where and when.

[  ]You will need double Climbing Boots with expedition liners on these climbs; it can be very cold when standing at belay or rappel stations, and the snow on Chopicalqui can be extremely cold. Our pace is measured and slow on the summit days, so keeping your feet warm at 6,000 meters is important.
[  ]Climbers may need to bring another pair or larger gaiters, to fit their climbing boots — if trekking gaiters do not fit both pair of boots. It's very common to have deep snow on Chopi, and gaiters are likely needed in the conditions we'll experience.
[  ]Second neck gaiter (or balaclava)
[  ]Ice Axe: A 60 cm — Make sure it's designed for STEEP climbing and will stick easily in hard-steep glacier ice. Attach a light weight wrist leash that is usable for climbing steeper terrain. A lightweight aluminum ice axe IS NOT THE BEST CHOICE for this trip.
[  ]A matched pair of climbing tools (45-55 cm) with leashes designed for ice climbing.
[  ]12 point Crampons: These must be sharp and must fit your boot perfectly, and tested for steep ice
[  ]Climbing Harness: Make sure the buckle is easy to thread in cold conditions! Gear loops will be useful for this trip as well as adjustable leg loops. Make sure your harness is NOT more than 5-years old; if so, buy a new lightweight one.
[  ]Climbing Helmet: Required. Be sure you can comfortably fit a warm hat underneath.
[  ]Hardware: Bring 4 locking and 3 lightweight regular carabiners. It is helpful if at least two of the locking carabiners has a "key gate", like the Petzl Attache.
[  ]One Mechanical ascender for ascending fixed rope.
[  ]Other gear: One 48" x 1" NYLON sewn loop; one 24" SPECTRA sewn loop. Please also bring 20' of 7 mm Perlon; we will tie some other loops in our hotel that will be used on the climb.
[  ]For rappelling, the Black Diamond ATC Guide is a good choice since it can handle ropes from 7.7mm to 11mm. Let your lead guide know if you plan to bring something else.
[  ]Avalanche Transceiver: an avalanche transceiver may be required for your climb. If you are providing your own beacon, it must meet industry standards. IMG will make the decision based on current conditions for your upcoming climb. *available for rent from IMG.*
[  ]Eating utensils: Bring a lightweight mug, a decent sized lightweight bowl, and spoon. It is nice to have a small stuff sack OR ZIPLOCK bag to keep them clean. Consider taking just a large mug to be used for drinking and eating out of, to save weight. Or, consider one of the flat "Fish" bowls that can also serve dual purpose for those wanting to save more weight.
[  ]Mittens: Fleece mittens with an over mitten. Nothing compares with a mitten for warmth at higher altitudes. Chances are you won't need them, but these could be critical if you get cold during the summit climb.
[  ]Lightweight goggles w/no fog cloth

Gear Donations for the Local Guides and Mule Drivers

We like to encourage our Peru trekkers and climbers to bring along some of their used and close-to-worn-out-gear and clothing on this trip. This gear can then be donated to our local guides and staff after the trek-and make your bag lighter for your flight home. Appropriate items include long underwear tops and bottoms, fleeces clothing, trekking pants, socks, gloves and mittens, outerwear, gaiters, and other clothing items that you've used during your trip but you no longer need-or want. This token is not expected by us or our local staff, but it is a good way to "unload" some of your older gear that you no longer need or want and help out the families of the folks we work with who can put it to good use. Extra trek food can also be left for the Peruvian staff after the trek and climb.

We certainly don't want to overwhelm our local staff, and your guides will help coordinate the donation so that all are treated fairly. Our local contacts certainly appreciate anything you can give them, but please don't make any promises along the way. Thank you in advance for whatever you do for the local families we work with!

Gear Note

Lastly mark all personal gear including water bottles clearly in indelible ink with your name, or wrap colored tape around your bottles (or use a sticker). Check the condition of your gear and be sure to test new pieces of equipment thoroughly.

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