McKinley West Buttress Expedition
Whether you call it Denali or McKinley, it’s the tallest mountain in North America and one of the most coveted of the fabled Seven Summits. In 2027, IMG Denali, LLC (IMGD) will conduct six scheduled expeditions via the West Buttress Route. If a custom expedition would better suit your needs, we offer custom programs for private teams of one or more climbers. Please reach out to us directly for further details.
Our leaders were among the first to guide McKinley over four decades ago. Today, IMGD guides continue that legacy and culture of respect for the mountain, climber safety, positivity and great customer service. Unlike many of our competitors, IMGD begins every McKinley expedition at a stronger initial guide ratio of 1 guide per 2 climbers with a maximum of 8 climbers led by 4 guides. Our initial 2:1 climber-to-guide ratio provides our teams with significantly higher levels of experience, customer support, independence and on mountain flexibility to adapt to ever changing conditions.
We provide personal consultation throughout the planning stages of your expedition. IMGD was created with the philosophy that a personal touch and attention to detail is integral to any successful expedition and especially one as challenging as McKinley.
The Climb
McKinley commands respect as one of the most stunningly beautiful yet harshly demanding climbs in the world. Summit success does not come easy. There are no porters, yaks or donkeys to carry heavy loads, no helpers to install fixed ropes, set up and maintain camps, melt snow for water or prepare meals. Team members do all the work. Extreme cold and heavy winds are expected. Loads are heavy. Once a team heads out from the Kahiltna Glacier base camp, they are committed to the climb for several weeks with no easy way to simply quit. Climbers need excellent physical and mental strength with multi-week expedition endurance. Their reward will be the fullest expedition experience in which the original ethics of mountaineering are honored and preserved, including self-sufficiency, teamwork and bonding, and ultimate resilience. Prepare for an authentic and pure version of an iconic, big mountain climb now very rarely obtained by guided climbers anywhere in the world.
The Guides
IMGD guides are known in the industry as a tightly knit community of top-notch mountaineering professionals who see each other as family both on and off the mountains and strive for excellence together. Their familiarity and trust as a guide team and cohesive guide culture is one hallmark of every IMGD expedition. IMGD guides are chosen for their demonstrated skills and experience from within the ranks of guides leading climbs on Mt. Rainier, other glaciated and technical climbs in the Pacific Northwest, and international destinations including the Seven Summits. IMGD guides are required to meet or exceed the experience, training and credentialing established by industry standards and approved by Denali National Park. They are also selected for unique people skills, interpersonal, teaching and mentoring focus, and broader interests and education extending beyond traditional technical certifications. IMGD guides and team members will build the bonds of trust, respect and collaboration among climbers who will continue to forge relationships stemming from an epic shared climbing experience. “Comrades on McKinley, Friends for Life.”
Mt. McKinley expedition programs and other guided climbing activities within Denali National Park are conducted by IMG Denali, LLC, an Alaska limited liability company and authorized concessioner of Denali National Park and Preserve.
