September 6, 2011
A number of the IMG climbers moved up to Camp 1 today for an overnight stay for acclimatization, and the other members will be moving up tomorrow or the next day. Ang Jangbu accompanied them and got some nice photos from Camp 1!
Eric Simonson
September 6, 2011
Another beautiful sunrise on Mt. Rainier!
The long wait is over…our 2012 Rainier dates have been released!
We’re not quite done this year on Mt. Rainer but we’re already looking forward to another great season on Mt. Rainier next year. We’ll have all the classic climbs like the 3.5 Day Disappointment Cleaver, 4.5 Day Emmons and 4 or 5 Day Kautz climbs as well some more technical climbs via the Fuhrer Finger & Liberty Ridge routes. And for those of you looking to learn a bit more, the Glacier Skills Seminar or the New Little Tahoma Mountaineering Seminar should fit your needs.
And for those of you with Denali on the brain don’t miss our Winter and Denali Prep Seminars this winter.
**Please click here to see our registration forms and process. And don’t miss our  Rainier FAQ section to answer a lot of your initial question. Note: “Holds” will not be placed on any Rainier climbs.
Tye Chapman
September 5, 2011
Team after Puja. (Photo by Ang Jangbu)
With their pujas behind them, it is time for the climbing to start! Mike Hamill on Shishapangma and Ang Jangbu on Cho Oyu report that both teams are on essentially the same schedules. Today the sherpas from each team made it up to their respective Camp 1 sites, and got those camps put in. Meanwhile, the climbers did some more acclimatization hiking and training, in preparation for moving up to Camp 1 in the next day or two. On Shishapangma the route to Camp 1 is simple snow travel on the lower part of the glacier. On Cho Oyu the climbers ascend a (normally) rocky slope leading up to the ridge crest. However, Jangbu reports that there is a lot of snow this year below Camp 1, and today the Cho Oyu sherpas fixed 150 meters of rope below the campsite.
Eric Simonson
September 4, 2011
If you squint...you can see some bananas in the back there.
What you eat in the mountains is important… staying healthy is a great place to start but so is eating what you like. Here’s a glimpse into some actual superfoods and some superfoods of a few of our guides:
Actual superfoods:
Beans, Blueberries, Broccoli, Oats, Oranges, Pumpkin, Salmon, Soy, Spinach, Tea (green or black), Tomatoes, Turkey, Walnuts, Yogurt.
IMG Superfoods
Chris Meder – Bagel sandwiches
Greg Vernovage – Swedish Fish
Josh Smith – Quesadillas
Kelly Ryan – Jalapeno poppers
Emily Johnston – Double chocolate oatmeal cookies
Eben Reckord – Domino’s Pizza & Sour Patch Kids
Austin Shannon – Yogurt covered pretzels
Tyler Gimenez – Blue Diamond wasabi flavored almonds
Tye Chapman – Trader Joe’s Naan bread with cream cheese, red peppers & turkey.
Max Bunce – Sour Patch Kids
Dan Zokaites – Potatoes & hard boiled eggs. Old school.
Erica Engle – Banana or zucchini bread
Eat well in the mountains!
Tye Chapman
September 2, 2011
Cho Oyu towers above the ABC puja alter. (Photo by Ang Jangbu)
IMG leader Mike Hamill reports that the Shishapangma team is doing well up at Advanced Base Camp, with their final yak loads now having arrived. Today Mike, Kami, and Panuru took a reconaissance hike up a ways towards Camp 1, and everyone will be hiking and/or relaxing tomorrow. Over at Cho Oyu, Ang Jangbu reports that their final yak loads have also now arrived to ABC, and the Cho Oyu climbers are also doing acclimatization hiking and relaxing. Tomorrow they plan to go up to Lake Camp (below Camp 1) for a day hike.
Both teams are doing their puja ceremonies on October 4, an auspicious day on the Tibetan calendar.  This is the traditional sherpa blessing ceremoney and the official start of the climbing. Both groups they plan to start working on carrying to Camp 1 starting on Monday. So far so good!
Eric Simonson
September 1, 2011
Forbidden Summit. (Photo by Austin Shannon)
North Cascades National Park in Washington is like none other. It is full of everything from glaciated terrain to beautiful granite spires and everything in between. It offers climbers and outdoor enthusiasts alike a place to experience the little bit of wilderness we have left. If your looking for the next step in a mountain adventure or simply want to experience something off the beaten path then the North Cascades is the place for you. Possibilities are endless; all you have to do is push the door open.
For instance, I recently guided a trip on Forbidden peak. It is located in Boston Basin, which is one of the most beautiful places in North Cascade National Park. The west ridge of Forbidden peak is a beautiful rock ridge that stretches up from the valley below nearly 2,000 vertical feet. This route offers the novice climber wonderful exposure, superb climbing, and a full alpine style commitment…accompanied by a guide of course. This is just one of the examples that the “Alps of America†has to offer.
The beauty of the North Cascades programs is that they can be completely customized. Anything from a short three day alpine attack to a five day skills seminar, we will meet your needs. So, come out and climb with us and see what this gem of Washington does for you.
Austin Shannon
September 1, 2011
Ang Jangbu reports that everyone did very well pulling into ABC (about 18,500 feet). The main group left Interim Camp at 7AM and reached ABC at noon. We have 17 more yak loads down at BC which will come up by day after tomorrow. Jangbu also sent some photos which he took over the last few days.
Eric Simonson
August 31, 2011
IMG guide Max Bunce reports that today the Cho Oyu climbers moved up to Interim Camp (known as IC) which is on the moraine of the Gyabrag Glacier at about 17,000 feet.  They are accompanied by the yaks, which are making a second roundtrip to ABC. Max says everyone is doing well and that they expect to make it to Advanced Base Camp tomorrow.
Over on Shishapangma, Mike Hamill reports that the team and their yaks made it all the way to Advanced Base Camp today (about 18,400 feet). Everyone is doing well and they will be taking several days at ABC getting organized, before moving higher.
So far everything seems to be going well with the teams and the weather has been OK, with clear mornings and snow in the afternoons, which is a pretty typical pattern. On both mountains, our IMG groups are ahead of the other climbers: We are the only team on Shishapangma right now, and on Cho Oyu there is only one other small team.
Eric Simonson
August 28, 2011
IMG Leaders Craig John, Mike Hamill, and Ang Jangbu report that after two nights in Tingri (14000+ feet) and a good day of acclimatization hiking yesterday to over 15000 feet, the two IMG teams have now officially split and headed for their Base Camps!
For Mike Hamill and the Shishapangma climbers, they backtracked a bit towards Nyalam before splitting off the Lhasa-Kathmandu road to drive further west with their jeeps and truck. For the Cho Oyu climbers, they drove due north from Tingri for less than an hour to their Base Camp site. Both the Base Camps are at about 15000 feet.  Ang Jangbu reports that the Cho Oyu team has 30 yaks (and yak drivers) arriving to BC tomorrow, and that the next day they will all head for ABC with 3-4 sherpas to start working on that camp. For the Cho Oyu team members, their plan is to take three nights at BC (acclimatization hiking each day) before moving up to IC (Interim Camp) on the 31st and to ABC on September 1st. The Shishapangma team is on a similar schedule.
For both the Cho Oyu and Shishapangma teams, their ABCÂ camps are well over 18000 feet, so it is important to be well acclimatized before moving up there.
So far so good!
Eric Simonson
August 26, 2011
Eric,
Cho Oyu rises behind Tingri. (Photo by Mike Hamill)
We’re about to hop in the vehicles here in Nyalam, and to head to Tingri.  The teams are healthy and acclimatizing well. Yesterday we took a longer hike gaining a few thousand feet. The weather is clear and sunny; much better than this time last year, so hopefully it holds and the monsoons are coming to an end. We will spend two nights at Tingri (14000+ feet) before the teams split to their respective base camps. The Cho Oyu sherpa team, minus Mingma Dorjee and Dawa Nuru, went ahead to Tingri yesterday to check on the hotel situation there. Today they are heading to Cho Oyu base camp to start getting things set up. The Shishapangma Sherpas went directly to Shishapangma base camp yesterday to begin setting up that camp.
Mike Hamill
