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Ecuador Team Thankful For Cotopaxi Summit!

November 23, 2011

Cotopaxi from an ultralight (Photo: Jorge Anhalzer)

One climber stayed at the hut on Cotopaxi this morning.  The altitude just wasn’t agreeing with him.  The rest of the team made good time, in good weather and perfect route conditions and stood on the summit this morning.  Way to go team!!

Everyone got back down without issue, packed up and headed down to the Hacienda Tierra del Volcan and the thicker air of 12,000 ft.  Thanksgiving dinner tomorrow at the Hacienda San Augustin.

Congratulations, team!

Phil Ershler

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Vinson Team In Position

November 22, 2011

Sue's Pyramid (Photo: Phil Ershler)

Spoke with Mike Hamill and our Vinson crew on the afternoon of the 22nd.  They’ve pulled into C1, have walls built and tents up.  And weather couldn’t be better.

Plan is to carry to high camp tomorrow and come back to C1 for the night.  Forecast is good for tomorrow and then winds may be increasing.  The team couldn’t be in a better position.  Get totally into position tomorrow and then be patient and pick the best shot to go high.  Just where they want to be.

To top it off, everyone’s feeling healthy and strong.

Phil Ershler

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Hopeful For Summit In Ecuador

Cotopaxi’s summit with a smoking Tungurahua in the distance (Photo: Phil Ershler)

November 22, 2011

Talked to Greg Vernovage and the Ecuador crew the afternoon of the 22nd.  The team was bedding down at the Jose Ribas hut on Cotopaxi for the night.  Weather is hanging in there.  A bit of snow this afternoon but nothing big.  And, winds have been light.

The crew will get up around 11 pm, dress, get a bit to eat and go for a little walk.  We’re hoping they have a nice summit to be thankful for come this Thursday and Thanksgiving Day.  We’ll know soon.

Phil Ershler

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Acclimatized And Ready For Cotopaxi

November 21, 2011

Project at hand (Photo: Phil Ershler)

Greg Vernovage called in at about 2 pm on the 21st.  He reported a good day of training and acclimatization in the area above the hut on Cotopaxi.  The crew dropped off some gear for the summit climb at the hut before heading down to the hacienda at Tierra del Volcan for the night.  Tomorrow morning, they’ll re-ascend on the 22nd, spend the night at the hut and be ready for a very early start for the summit of Cotopaxi on the morning of the 23rd.

Best news from Greg was that everyone continues to feel good and that the weather is holding.  Clear morning, afternoon clouds and then clear again in the evening.  That’s about as good as they could hope for.

Phil Ershler

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Vinson Team Carries To C1

November 21, 2011

Heading for C1 (Photo: Phil Ershler)

Once they started flying, they kept on flying.

Mike Hamill reported that the team made it to Vinson base camp on the 20th, got a good camp established and made a carry on the 21st to C1 at around 10,000 ft.  Nice.  They’ll be doing a lot of wall building when they make the move to C1 as it has a tendency to get a bit breezy there and they’ll be using the camp for at least 3 nights.

Best to get it done right.

Phil Ershler

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Vinson Team Off And Running

November 20, 2011

IL 76 on the Ice in Antarctica (Photo: Phil Ershler)

Bad news is that the team was delayed 3 days before they were able to fly onto the Ice.  Good news is that they made it in Saturday evening and that the delay won’t affect their climb.  They’re off and running!!

IMG guides, Mike Hamill and Chris Meder and our team of 7 climbers were excited to board the IL 76 and get strapped in for the 4 hour flight to the Union Glacier at close to 80 degrees south latitude.  The next flight leg is about an hour hop in a Twin Otter to get to Vinson base camp on the Branscomb Glacier at about 7000 ft.  Mike will call once they arrive, get camp established and are settled in.

With some expeditions, getting there is the toughest part.  Not that climbing Vinson is easy but we have some control over how that goes.  It’s the flying that’s always the question mark.  Weather, visibility, snow conditions on the runway – all have to align to make a safe flight possible.  Now, it’s up to the team.  Still need a bit of help with the weather from mother nature but now it’s game time.

Phil Ershler

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Update From Ecuador Team

November 20, 2011

Pass the sunscreen (Photo: Greg Vernovage)

Team and all their luggage arrived on schedule Thursday evening, the 17th. They were met at the airport by IMG Senior Guide, Greg Vernovage and our Ecuadorian partner and guide, Romulo Cardenas.  First order of business was a few introductions.  Second order of business was several hours of sleep.

Romulo met Greg and team again Friday morning and took everyone on an escorted tour through old town Quito.  Afterwards, the crew jumped into the bus and headed north, past the equator and to the town of Otavalo.  An afternoon visit with our friend and weaver, Jose Cotacachi, before a fun ‘pizza’ evening in Otavalo.  Otavalo is famous for the folk art market held each Saturday.

Back to Quito that afternoon to pack and prep, getting ready to head out towards Cotopaxi.

All’s good, everyone’s psyched and anxious to get to the mountain.  BTW, so far, weather has been excellent!

Phil Ershler

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Ecuador Team Good To Go

November 18, 2011

The Otavalo Market is great place to pick up some gifts. (Photo by Phil Ershler)

And they’re off.  Everyone arrived last night and with all luggage intact.  Nice.  Greg Vernovage, IMG’s lead guide on the trip, arrived a day earlier to wrap up some last minute errands.  Early this morning, the team met Romulo Cardenas, who is our Ecuadorian friend and partner.  Then, all headed to old town Quito for a tour with Romulo and then it was into the bus and head north for Otavalo.  Obligatory stop at the equator on the way plus a lunch stop at a very typical Ecuadorian restaurant for lunch.  Lunch for us here is always locro de queso (thick cheese and potato soup) and meat or cheese empanadas.  Tomorrow’s market day in Otavalo.  No way we want to miss that.

Phil Ershler

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Expect The Best; Prepare For The Worst

November 16, 2011

If you ever plan on climbing Denali then you’ll have to take on Mt. Rainier in the winter.  Winter mountaineering experience is required by all Denali guide services and Mt. Rainier, with its world record snowfall and Denali-like conditions, is the place to do it.

Even if you don’t have your eyes set on Denali you’ll have a new appreciation for Mt. Rainier after a 6.5 day Winter Expedition Ascent or 6.5 day Denali Prep Course.

Current forecast.

Are you up for the challenge?





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5 1/2 Tips From An Atypical Mountaineer

November 15, 2011

In the spirit of last week’s “From A Guide’s Perspective” features, longtime friend of IMG, Viki Tracey, took a few minutes to give us a few pointers from her point of view.

‘5½ Tips’ From An Atypical Mountaineer
By Viki Tracey

Viki on the summit of Illimani in Bolivia.

I like to think that I am a somewhat atypical mountaineer. Not really naturally blessed with good balance, a strong head for heights or even much in the way of coordination, I am, frankly, a Guides’ nightmare. However, not one to let physiology hold me back, 5½ years ago I decided I wanted to climb Kilimanjaro. At the time, I weighed about 215lbs (I am 5’6”) and getting out of a car was about the most challenging part of my ‘exercise regimen’. Undaunted, I lost weight, did some exercise and summitted Kili. And, in so doing, found a passion for the mountains and for climbing that has brought a better ‘balance’, good health and some wonderful friends into my life.

I am by no means an expert, but in recognition of those 5½ years, here are my 5½ tips for having fun in the mountains…

  1. Take the step. If you’re like me, you may be nervous about getting started or committing to that next step up. Use your resources and pick up the phone… the crew at IMG have never led me wrong, and I think I am coming up on trip number 9.
  2. Train smart, be practical. It’s no surprise that the more you train, the more fun (and safe) your climb will be. But just because you don’t live in the mountains, doesn’t mean you can’t be ready. I dragged an SUV tyre [read tire – Viki is from London] around Houston and carried a weighted pack around London to get ready for Denali and Bolivia. In my experience, optimizing power to weight ratio, core strength and endurance training is the key to success. If you can get into the hills to train, that’s great, but if you can’t, you can still come well prepared.
  3. Self reliance. All of my trips have been guided (most with IMG). It’s impossible to overstate how wonderful the Guides are and how well they will take care of you. However, I care a lot about taking personal responsibility for being a strong part of the team. For me, this means being able to keep my wits about me even when exhausted: eat, drink and put on warm clothes at every break. I actually ‘train’ for this by doing mental arithmetic when I am walking or at the gym (did I mention I am a little odd?!).
  4. Keep it light. Less stuff equals less work. I plan ahead and buy the lightest stuff that I can. 30 minutes on the internet nerding out about a piece of climbing kit is a great de-stresser (for me) after far too many hours in the office. Follow the IMG gear lists. You don’t need more.
  5. Look up! Remember to make time at the breaks to look around, take in that exquisite view and snap a photo to share with your new found climbing pals and the gang back at home.

    5 ½.    One for the gals. Pee funnel. Get to grips with it. Mastering this means a lot less time spent evaluating your need to go against the (internationally recognised?) cold arse to desperation rating scale… and, in all seriousness, in my case, means I stay better hydrated (I drink more liquid because I am not so worried about holding up the group).

I hope our paths will cross in the mountains one day. Happy climbing!

Viki Tracey

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