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Mt. Logan Team On Its Way!

May 15, 2012

Mt. Logan

IMG Guide Mark Allen posted his last text message from the transportation van on its way to the airstrip in Chitina at 1:30 PDT on Monday. Chitina is about a 5 hour drive from Anchorage.

The team is all set and ready to go, gear all packed and loaded. The weather is doubtful, so the team may spend the night in tents at the Chitina airstrip waiting for improvement. If possible, they will fly to the Ultima Thule lodge, a 45 minute flight from Chitina. It is another hour’s flight from the lodge to the Mt. Logan landing site.

The good news is the small town of Chitina has both beer and pizza, so the team will likely do OK tonight.

We’ll keep updating as the team is able to fly in to the mountain.

George Dunn

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Annapurna 4 Climbers Heading For Thorung La

May 14, 2012

Dhaulagiri (7th highest at 8167m) from near Muktinath (Charlotte Austin)

Eben called this morning to say they had made it to Manang yesterday, and that they enjoyed food, showers, and entertainment (they watched “Vertical Limit” last night).  Pasang Nuri and Sante are headed back down to Besisahar with gear/porters and today the Sherpas are meeting the climbers at Yak Kharka and then they are headed to Phedi. Then, tomorrow, they cross the Thorung La (5,416m/17,769ft; La means pass) and descend to Muktinath and Jomsom, with the hope of flying back to Pohkara on the 16th.  We had some sad news overnight — it sounds like one of the local Jomsom flights crashed today, so it is unclear how that event might affect the teams’ departure plans.   If necessary, they can depart Jomsom by vehicle (it is a very rough 12 hour drive or a 20 minute flight back to Pohkara).  Either way, they should be back to Pohkara in the next couple days.

Eric Simonson

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Annapurna 4 Climbers Retreat

May 12, 2012

Annapurna 4 from near Humre

IMG guide Eben Reckord called on the sat phone from Camp 3 to say that they were hoping to get a pre-dawn start on their summit bid this morning, but that a snowstorm came in overnight.  So, they were electing to bail out from C3 instead.  Now Eben called back to say they made it down to Base camp, and were glad that they bailed, as it snowed hard all day during their retreat to BC.  Better safe than sorry—they did not want to get pinned down up there.

These guys have had a real Himalayan experience the last month, making their own route up a beautiful peak.  Now they are headed home via Thorung La trek and Jomson flight.  Their goals for tomorrow are hot showers, lots of food, and emailing friends and family in Manang.

Eric Simonson

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Nepal Update – One Up, One Down

May 11, 2012

Annapurna IV Camp 3 and the route to the summit (photo: Craig John)
Everest and Ama Dablam (photo: Eric Simonson)

Eben Reckord reports that the A4 team moved up to Camp 3 yesterday (about 21,000) and the Sherpas were able to break out a trail further up the ridge during the afternoon.  The plan is to start about 11pm tonight and head for the summit.  Weather is looking good right now, and they are going to give it their best shot.

Over on Ama Dablam, Liam O’Sullivan reports that the team took a shot at the summit yesterday, but the mountain said “no”.  They got hit by snow, and also had some lightening.  Several members of the team got very close (within about 50 meters of the top) but they were unable to make the true summit.  The team has now descended to BC and everyone is doing well.

Eric Simonson

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Mt. Rainier: Climb It. Now.

May 10, 2012

Mt. Rainier

You may have noticed this weekend’s current forecast – unbelievably perfect weather to kick off our first Mt. Rainier summit climb of the season.  If you’re tired of the same old barbecues and looking for something new and exciting to do, we still have room for 2 more climbers to tag along on the Mt. Rainier Classic 3.5 Day Summit Climb starting this Saturday, May 12-15.  Join our Guides – Erica, Nick, Austin and Josh for an adventure of a lifetime.  Call our office today to claim your spot on the roster!

Can’t make it this weekend?  Give us a call for updates on cancellations and available dates – (360)569-2609.

Might as well – it’s one more thing to scratch off the bucket list.

Becky Kjorvestad

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Ama Dablam & Annapurna 4 Climbers Moving Up!

May 9, 2012

IMG guide Eben Reckord reports from Annapurna 4 that the climbers made it up to Camp 1 today, while Thunang and Phinjo continued up to Camp 2.  Tomorrow the climbers go to Camp 2 and the Sherpas to Camp 3.

View of A4 summitt and bergschrund from BC (Photo by David Medlar)
Ama Dablam Lower Route (Photo by Justin Merle)

On Ama Dablam,  IMG guide Liam O’Sullivan reports that today the team moved up from Camp 1 to Camp 2, and if everything is going well, they may take a summit bid from there.

Eric Simonson

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Ama Dablam Climbers Head For Camp 2

May 8, 2012

IMG guide Liam O’Sullivan reports that the Ama Dablam team is doing well.  They had a nice rest day today at Camp 1 and now they are getting ready to move up to Camp 2.

The weather, route, and conditions look good!

Slabs leading up to Camp 1
Looking up the ridge from near Camp 1 to the upper mountain

Camp 1
Ama Dablam Camp locations

Eric Simonson

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Nepal Trekkers Coming & Going

May 8, 2012

Some of the Maida Mountaineers on a hike above Dingboche (Ama Dablam in background)

Our Sherpa Trek team flew successfully to Lukla a few days ago and now are on the way to Base Camp.  So far everything is going well for them, and they are enjoying the sights at Tengboche monastery.  This is at a crucial altitude, about 12,000 feet, and it is important to feel good here, before moving up to the 14,000+ elevations at Pheriche and Dingboche.  A couple nights in Namche, and a couple more in Deboche (just below Tengboche) will prepare the team for the thinner air in their future!

The Maida’s Mountaineers (MM) custom trek team are now safe and recuperating in Kathmandu.  One of the members, Brewster, summed up the trip:

“Fifteen demanding days, cold nights (10 degrees F), sleeping on a glacier next to the Khumbu Ice fall at EBC (17,600′), long days of trekking, rallying around a sick friend, tight and caring companionship, skilled leadership and MM completed a long-anticipated trek. Far more difficult than ever expected, the trek turned 13 incredible and wonderful individuals into a very close group of hard-bodies who tonight will head home to decompress. We cannot adequately thank the hard-working porters, our four Sherpas headed by Lopsang Sherpa who quietly led us through these overwhelmingly beautiful Himalayan mountains, our guide Jenni who listened and led our group through some very difficult and anxious situations, and for Buddha who slowly seeped into our bodies, brought peace, tranquility and reflection. We are all safe, wiser, closer and carrying a tale only we will know – never to tell and never to forget. Thank you IMG.”

Eric Simonson

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Ama Dablam Climbers Reach Base Camp

May 6, 2012

 

Ama Dablam from Pumori. (Photo by Eric Simonson)

Ama Dablam leader Liam O’OSullivan reports that the team headed down to Pangboche after their climb of Lobuche Peak.  Then, they ascended up to Ama Dablam Base Camp where they are now established.  Now they are all together with their sherpas Ang Chirring (Kami), Ang Sona, Kalden Phura, and cooks Jor Bahadur and assistant Pasang Tshering.  The sherpas have a nice Base Camp all set up for them, and the camps on the mountain are all set.  Now that the team are well acclimatized, they should be able to move smoothly right on up Ama Dablam, starting with the trip tomorrow up to Camp 1.

Eric Simonson

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Annapurna 4 Climbers Return To Base Camp

May 5, 2012

Early morning sun hits Annapurna 2 (on left) and Annapurna 4 (on right) from A4 Base Camp (Craig John)

IMG guides Eben Reckord and  Emily Johnston report that the team descended today to Base Camp, after their run up towards Camp 3.  After spenidng their second night at Camp 2, they push up towards C3, then descended.  The sherpas did some more fixing above Camp 2, and everyone is now back down.  They are doing well, and are going to take a few rest days while they wait for a good forecast prior to their summit bids.

There was a big flood today on the south side of the Annapurna Range, apparently triggered by a Glacial Lake Outburst Flood (you can Google that up for more info).  This had nothing to do with our team.  There are hundreds of these glacial lakes in the Himalaya, and unfortunately, these GLOF events are not that uncommon.

Eric Simonson

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