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Next Stop – Denali!

June 25, 2012

Next Stop - Denali!

IMG guides are always coming and going.  Mike Hamill and Greg Vernovage should be exchanging handshakes this week when Mike flies off Denali and Greg flies on.  Mike’s been guiding with AMS on Denali, had a great trip and is heading back to Seattle to repack and get on a plane for Russia.  He’s got a full IMG team to take on our first Elbrus trip of the season After that, he’ll be in Salt Lake City at the Outdoor Retailer Show, autographing copies of his new book – “Climbing the Seven Summits”.

Greg’s waiting, ready to rock and roll, with his Denali team in Talkeetna and hoping to fly onto the mountain soon.  After leading IMG’s hugely successful Everest expedition this spring, Denali won’t be easy but maybe a bit less stressful. Weather always determines flights so a little luck and a little patience is needed to get one team off and one team on.

Greg’s been going over personal gear with each of his 6 team members.  The weather delay will give them more time to work on knots, crevasse rescue and maybe some of the finer points of setting up tents.  It’s all good.  When the weather breaks, everyone will be moving in the right direction.

Phil Ershler

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Next Stop – Kilimanjaro!

June 24, 2012

IMG Guide Eben Reckord ready to go!

Well, my duffels are all packed and I can’t wait to get this show on the road.  Kilimanjaro is one of my favorites.  Not only is the sunrise on summit morning one of the best I ever get to see, we go on a real safari as well!

I’m looking forward to another successful season on the mountain.  I hope everyone on our team is gearing up and getting excited for the adventure ahead.  Ill see you all soon.

And to all those following us please keep an eye on the blog as we make our way up (and down) the mountain.

Eben Reckord

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Liberty Ridge Team Summits!

June 21, 2012

Above Thumb Rock

Justin Merle just called in from the summit plateau at 2:10 pm PDT after his team topped out on Liberty Cap, a false summit on the mountain, but the end of the technical difficulties on the Liberty Ridge route. They have a couple of hour’s slog over to the true summit, then will stop to brew up some water and rehydrate.

Justin says they’ll continue their descent via the normal Camp Muir route and will likely stop for the night at Camp Muir. They’ll be down mid-day tomorrow.

Congratulations to the team for a job well done!

George Dunn

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Liberty Ridge Team Climbing Strong

June 20, 2012

Good news from Liberty Ridge!

Camp at Thumb Rock

Justin Merle called in this afternoon at 2pm PDT. The team is doing well. They spent last night on lower Curtis Ridge at  7,000’ and got an early start this morning, walking by 6am. They made good progress climbing the Carbon Glacier to the foot of Liberty Ridge at 8,500’ , reaching that point at 8:30am. The team climbed up the west side of the ridge in good firm sun cupped snow, then bumped to the east side after 500 feet, continuing up in more sloppy, wet snow but with good step kicking conditions. Justin reported that they had been in camp for a couple of hours already. He and guide Aaron Mainer were planning to climb a bit higher this afternoon to kick in steps for the following morning.

The plan is to depart even earlier tomorrow, with a 3 or 4am departure, heading for the summit.

The team plans to climb up over the summit and descend via the Camp Muir, Disappointment Cleaver route down the south side of the mountain. They’ll likely spend a final night somewhere down near Camp Muir.

We’ll hope to be able to report the team’s success tomorrow!

George Dunn

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JanSport DC Team Spins At 12,800

June 14, 2012

Top of The Cleaver (Austin Shannon)
Little Tahoma (Jess Culver)

Even George Dunn turns around from time to time! The group left the flats and after reaching the top of the cleaver they encountered some slopes they just weren’t comfortable with, so they stopped, took some photos and headed back to the Ingraham Flats. A great effort by all on a beautiful, cold & windy morning.

Both JanSport teams will convene on IMG here this afternoon before heading to The WellSpring Spa for a nice dinner, a couple drinks, and a well earned rest!

No summits this year, but all will make it home safely with 10 fingers and 10 toes!

Tye Chapman

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JanSport Emmons Team Shutdown But Happy

June 13, 2012

DC Team having a Matrix moment

IMG Guide Eben Reckord called from Camp Schurman this morning to report that they were shutdown at roughly 12,500ft. They awoke to sustained winds nearing 30mph and they only increased as the team moved higher on the mountain. When they turned around the winds were estimated at ~60mph, just too stiff to climb. Everybody is back at camp, likely napping, lounging and swapping stories from previous outdoor adventures.

Just over a mile away (as the crow flies) is the DC Team, led by George Dunn, at the Ingraham Flats. They’re settling into their tents for their summit attempt tonight.  Relatively high winds are forecasted again so we’ll just wait and see how the team does…

More tomorrow.

Tye Chapman

 

 

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JanSport Teams Moving Strong

June 12, 2012

IMG Guide Eben Reckord reports that all is well on the NE side of Mt. Rainier. The team had a good climb to their first camp yesterday and are now en route to Camp Schurman (9500ft) where they’ll rest up this afternoon and this evening before their summit attempt in the morning.

Emmons Team En Route
DC Team Ready To Go
DC Team Dinner at the Paradise Inn

Over on the south side of Mt. Rainier the DC team just finished up a nice breakfast at the Paradise Inn and are currently en route to Camp Muir (10,000ft) where they’ll spend the night before heading up to the Ingraham Flats tomorrow afternoon. If all goes as planned they’ll head for the top on Thursday morning.

A little bump in the weather today, but the forecast is calling for some better weather the rest of the week… time will tell.

Tye Chapman

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JanSport Climb Kicks Off In Good Form

June 11, 2012

When the JanSport team pulled into the parking lot yesterday it marked the official start to the 40th JanSport Climb of Mt. Rainier. The hustle and bustle of the gear check, the rental department pillaging, and the general organized chaos that is the start to every climb quickly ensued. It always sorts itself out, as is did yesterday.

Mt. Rainier
Emmons Team Breakfast

DC Team Having Dinner
DC Team at Paradise for Mountain Day School

By 4:30 half the crew was loaded up and headed over to the Alpine Inn at Crystal Mountain to have dinner and stay the night before their climb via the Emmons Route.  Shortly thereafter, the Disappointment Cleaver Team loaded up and headed to the Wildberry for dinner before heading on up to the Paradise Inn for the night.

Today, the Emmons team is en route to Camp 1 while the DC team is at Paradise for a Mountain Day School. Their climb, led by George Dunn, will start tomorrow.

Tye Chapman

 

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Juneuary Continues On Mt. Rainier

June 9, 2012

Mt. Rainier National Park Webcam (June 9, 2012)

Another rough weather pattern has settled on Mt. Rainier the past week or ten days bringing with it a good amount of snow and wind. Our team at Camp Muir hung tight overnight and is hunkered down for another night.They’re dug in, warm and relatively dry.

Down lower on the mountain is our first Kautz climb of the season, led by Max Bunce. They played it safe today and pulled up short of where they were going to camp.  Plenty to do: 1.) set up a bomber camp 2.) use the weather and surrounding terrain to train 3.) stay warm and dry – or as warm and dry as possible.

Despite the marginal weather, all is well on Mt. Rainier.

Tye Chapman

 

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FAQ #37: What Boots Are Sufficient For Rainier?

June 7, 2012

What boots will you wear?

Every year “the boot question” comes up and every year we break the hearts of people who haven’t read the boot FAQ section when they show up here in May/June to climb Mt. Rainier in their shiny, brand new, ‘single boots’ and we tell them they can’t wear them. So, in the spirit of the new Rainier season and the low freezing levels this week we’ll revisit the most frequently asked question:

Here is IMG’s thinking:

For a first time climb of Mt. Rainier, you want to be as well prepared as possible. That means warm, waterproof boots. Double plastic boots provide the best possible warmth for your feet, they are completely waterproof, and they don’t constrict your toes or ankles when worn with crampons attached. First time climbers will do well to choose double plastic boots, and IMG makes this simple by offering them for rent. We also strongly recommend double plastic boots in early summer (May and June) for all participants and we REQUIRE them on winter programs.

There are some very warm, insulated, waterproof synthetic or leather single climbing boots on the market these days. If you own a pair of single climbing boots (generally less than ten years old) and have used them successfully in cold weather environments previously, then single boots will probably work for you on Mt. Rainier.

There are a number of manufacturers who make very good climbing boots these days.

Here are some of the requirements your boots must possess:

  • Must be fully rigid or ¾ rigid shank soled.
  • Must be factory treated waterproof leather or synthetic waterproof
  • Must have synthetic insulation
  • Must be crampon compatible

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