January 11, 2013
Need a lift?
We got word from Greg this morning that the IL-76 had landed and they were about to board.
They are officially en route home.
Tye Chapman
Vinson Team Leaving Antarctica
South America Is The Place To Be
January 10, 2012
Peter & Josh's team a couple days ago in Mendoza. (Photo by waiter)
Let’s do a head count on who is where in South America…
IMG Guides Ty Gimenez, Peter Adams and Martin Lucero and their team are relaxing at Camp 2 on Aconcagua enjoying a rest day, a bit of an audible from their original plan, but well within bounds. They’ll forgo a carry to High Camp (Peter and Martin carried some gear up there today) and instead move on up tomorrow. Their summit day right now is slated for Saturday.
Lower on the mountain is Peter Anderson and Josh McDowell and their crew. I didn’t hear from Pete today, but they’re likely enjoying some fire-grilled steak at the first trekking camp after a nice walk in.
Back in Mendoza is Mike Hamill and his private Aconcagua crew. All gear arrived on schedule, permits are in hand, now it’s time for one more meal in Mendoza. They’ll head to Penitentes tomorrow.
And somewhere in, near or around Mendoza, is IMG Guide Emily Johnston. Emily is on a personal climb of Aconcagua with some friends. She’s a stealthy one, so we don’t know exactly where she is, but she’s got a radio with her so I imagine she’ll pop her head up at some point and say hi to the other guides on the mountain.
Way up north is Luke Reilly. Luke is on a bus in Arica, Chile at the moment (if you know Luke you know this is normal) en route to Santiago. We may need to call him out of the bullpen to assist with Greg Vernovage’s Aconcagua program. We’ll know soon.
Quoting Luke:
“I´m ready to go. I´m in Arica right now and will be in Santiago by Saturday or Sunday. I´ll check my email, just let me know as I will have to rearrange a flight. I’m ready.”
Even further north in Ecuador, is Phil Ershler. Phil is awaiting his Ecuador Volcanoes team which is schedule to arrive later tonight. He makes a point to go down a couple days ahead of schedule to spend some time with long time friend and guide, Romulo Cardenas and his family.
And not officially in South America, though they wish they were, is our Vinson team. The flight didn’t leave Punta Arenas, Chile this morning due to some windy conditions so they’ll continue to hang tight.
There you have it, IMG is well represented in Chile and Argentina at the moment.
Tye Chapman
Vinson Team On Deck
January 9, 2013
IL-76
Greg called this afternoon to say that they’re on deck to catch a flight from Union Glacier, Antarctica back to Punta Arenas, Chile tomorrow morning.
They’re cautiously optimistic – it’s all determined by the weather at this point.
Greg will give us an update in the morning.
Tye Chapman
Aconcaua Team Updates
January 9, 2013
View From Camp 2.
Ty G. called in from Camp 2 on Aconcagua today with an “all is well” report. They made the move today without issue. The wind isn’t too bad and there’s plenty of water flowing through camp making things a little easier for the guides. Tomorrow, they’ll push up to High Camp with a load of gear, stash it, then head back down to C2 for some hot cocoa and chow. A rest day will likely follow.
Peter Anderson checked in as well – they were en route to Penitentes this morning, after their duffel-delay. They likely got to Penitentes in the early afternoon and quickly got to sorting their gear into mule loads. They’ll utilize the mules for the first 3 days into Base Camp, from there it’ll get a little [ok, a lot] tougher.
Tye Chapman
Get The Gear…Portlandia Style
January 9, 2013
I can’t say everybody will find this as hilarious as we do, but it’s a fun look at an issue a lot of people have in our world. Enjoy!
Get the gear, and get the right gear…just not ALL of it!
Tye Chapman
Packing For Everest
January 9, 2013
Sherpas checking over tents in Kathmandu (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)
Ang Jangbu reports that he made it safely back to Kathmandu from the Christmas Kili trip. Now he and his staff are starting to work on prepping gear for Everest. They will be sending food, fuel, tents, oxygen, and other equipment ahead of the climbers in the coming weeks for establishing the Base Camp.
Speaking of Base Camp, for a great view of IMG’s 2012 Everest Base Camp, check out the David Breashears’ Everest Gigapan. If you start at the South Col and scroll straight down to the Khumbu moraine, IMG BC is immediately to the left, with lots of yellow tents. You can even see the IMG banner on the puja alter if you look close!
Eric Simonson
Slight Delay In Mendoza
January 8, 2013
Taken in the park just a couple blocks away from the hotel.
IMG Guide Peter Anderson called from Mendoza today at 12:30 pm PST. A number of duffels were delayed on their flight and they just picked up the last one today at noon. Because of this, the team has been delayed for a day in Mendoza and will depart tomorrow for the Penitentes at 8:30 am. Not to worry, this loss of a day shouldn’t have an affect on the overall schedule of the climb.
For Tyler’s team, the carry to C2 is now done, with the group back at C1. They’ve already got a lot of work under their belts. Weather looks reasonable for the remainder of the week. No need to rush now but they do want to keep the momentum going. If the crew feels good in the morning, they’ll likely move up to C2. If there’s a need, they could easily hang for a day at C1 tomorrow for a bit of rest. They’ll have a better idea in the morning. They’ve been doing well.
Phil Ershler
Up Down And All Around
January 8, 2013
Union Glacier Weatherport Tent in Antarctica. (Pat McCrann)
Up on Aconcagua – Ty, Martin, Peter and team are at C1 and will be making their carry today to C2.
Down on Aconcagua – Peter, Leandro, Josh and team will be heading to Penitentes, finishing up packing and getting ready to begin their approach tomorrow.
And, way down on Vinson Massif – Greg reports that they’re all back at the Union Glacier, waiting for flights north. They’re living large. ALE, our flight service, has a great base camp facility at the Union Glacier. Big, comfortable tents, tables and chairs, 3 meals a day, toilets – pretty much everything could want. And, it’s darn near impossible to beat the surroundings!
Phil Ershler
Revolving Door In South America
January 5, 2013
The route to Camp 1 on Aconcagua.
A few things to report from Argentina today. First is that everyone from Josh Tapp’s group is now on their way home. Josh arrives home tomorrow. Leandro, one of our great Argentine guides who was working with Josh, is going through a final check of group gear for our next team, led by Peter Anderson, with Leandro and Josh McDowell. That group left the States (and South Africa) today and will be rendezvousing in Mendoza tomorrow, the 6th. IMG Senior Guide, Mike Hamill, leaves tomorrow for Mendoza. He’ll be climbing with a small, custom team via the Horcones Valley route now and then staying to climb with the final IMG team of the season in late January.
Up on the mountain itself, Ty Gimenez called in today. Martin Lucero, Peter Adams and he are taking a rest day at base camp today and prepping for their carry to C1 tomorrow. Weather is a bit unsettled but that’s actually just fine for a carry day.
Down further South, like all the way South, Greg Vernovage and his 5 successful Vinson climbers will be making their way to Vinson base camp today. It’s a bit of a long walk but not terrible. And, when you’ve all been to the summit, it’s amazing how easy that walk becomes. Once at base camp Vinson, it’ll be a bit of a waiting game. They’ll need reasonable weather to fly over to the Union Glacier camp and then good weather for the IL76 to come in, pick these guys up and get them back to Chile. That could happen as early as the 6th. Greg will stay in South America and head over to Mendoza. He’ll be leading our January 20 departure on Aconcagua. No rest for the wicked.
Phil Ershler
Taking A Break At Base Camp
January 4, 2013
Plaza Argentina. (Nick Hayward)
Ty G. called in today to report that they had a great day on the trail and made it to Base Camp (aka Plaza Argentina) in good form this afternoon.
They’ll spend two night here getting rested up and acclimatized. Tomorrow is an easy ‘rest and recover’ day, though they may take a short hike to get the blood pumping.
But first things first – tonight it’s burritos! We’ll see if they can keep Peter happy… easy on the salt.
Tye Chapman