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<\/a>Porter striking a pose on the summit of Mt. Baker on a summer day wearing the Scarpa Mont Blanc Single Boot (Nancy Brill)<\/p><\/div>\n
An In-Depth Boot Discussion<\/strong>\u00c2\u00a0With IMG Guide, Porter McMichael:<\/strong>\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n The footwear we choose for a climb of Mt Rainier<\/a> is one of the most important gear decisions we will make. Our boots will need to be comfortable, warm, and when possible, light. There are two broad categories of boots. Double boots, which we use in colder temperatures and single boots, for when the weather is warmer.\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Single Boots<\/strong><\/p>\n Single boots are the lightest option out there. However, they are not very warm and I don\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t recommend wearing single boots on Rainier if the freezing levels will be below 10,000′ (ie\u00c2\u00a0coldest temps around 25F for just a few hours). If the freezing levels are over 10,000′, then singles boots are a great option as your feet won’t overheat and you\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll carry less weight every step. Single boots are available as both semi rigid and fully rigid boots. Semi rigid boots are lighter and more efficient on trails and rock but are less efficient on snow, particularly if it is steep. For Rainier, fully rigid single boots are the lightest option, but are only for when the weather allows. Since the soles don\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t flex at all, this means more efficient travel on snowy slopes as your boot won’t slip out of the tracks and calf fatigue will be reduced, especially with a heavy pack. Fully rigid boots can be identified by the \u00e2\u20ac\u0153toe welt\u00e2\u20ac\u009d which is a groove in the rubber for crampons to attach to. Fully rigid singles come in several flavors, described below.\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Porter carrying a ladder for crevasse crossings on the upper reaches of Rainier in September wearing the Scarpa Mont Blanc Single Boot (Keith Rumburg)<\/p><\/div>\n Single Leather\/Synthetic<\/strong>\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n These are the mountaineering boots that most people wear in the summer months on Rainier and similar peaks in the North Cascades<\/a>. The advantages to these boots include their durability and price. They are typically the least expensive mountaineering boots and will last a long time (perhaps not as long as double plastic boots). If you don\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t own any mountaineering boots, this is a good place to start. Downsides of these boots are limited, but they are typically heavier than single super gaiter boots and not as warm as any of the double boots. Popular boots in the category include the La\u00c2\u00a0Sportiva\u00c2\u00a0Nepal and Scarpa Mont Blanc (or Mont Blanc Pro). All companies offer a leather or synthetic single, find which one fits your foot.\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Single Super Gaiters<\/strong>\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Single super gaiter boots are an excellent option for people who want the lightest footwear. These boots are very warm for their weight, and climb technical terrain very well. This light weight and fancy technology doesn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t come without downsides however.\u00c2\u00a0 These boots are typically more expensive, less durable (especially for those who aren\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t used to walking with crampons), and have more parts that can fail such as zippers and boa fasteners (part of the lacing system). That being said these boots are an excellent option for the experienced mountaineer who wants a lighter boot that excels on technical terrain and vertical ice, or someone who desires a small warmth boost over standard singles but doesn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t want the increased bulk of doubles. Popular boots in this category include the La\u00c2\u00a0Sportiva\u00c2\u00a0G5 and Scarpa Phantom Tech.\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Double Boots\u00c2\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n Personally, when guiding on Mt Rainier, I wear double boots about 75% of the time. Whenever freezing levels are below 10,000ft I will wear doubles because I don\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t like cold feet. When in doubt, it\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s good to err on the side of too warm, particularly when going with a guided group. Double boot refers to the fact that the liners of the boots are removable. This results in a greater amount of insulation and it means the liner can be removed from the shell (just like ski boots) at night to be dried or kept in your sleeping bag to be kept warm. Double boots are heavier but when the weather is cold, there\u00e2\u20ac\u2122s no other option.\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Porter on the Muir Snowfield in July wearing the La Sportiva Spantik Double Boot (Heather Garland)<\/p><\/div>\n Double Synthetics<\/strong>\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n This is one of the workhorse categories of double boots and the type of boot I spend the most time in. These boots are composed of an insulating inner boot inside a synthetic outer boot. They are durable, warm, and heavy. They won’t make you feel like a ballerina but they will get you to the top and back comfortably. Popular boots in this category include the La\u00c2\u00a0Sportiva\u00c2\u00a0Spantik\u00c2\u00a0and La\u00c2\u00a0Sportiva\u00c2\u00a0Baruntse. Companies seem to be phasing this style of boot out and fewer options are available.\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Double Plastics<\/strong>\u00c2\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Perhaps the true workhorse of mountaineering boots, double plastics are how most people start mountaineering. The first big mountain I climbed was in double plastic boots. Plastics get their name from their shell material. The outer boot is made of plastic like a ski boot with an insulating inner boot. These boots are extremely durable and less expensive than their synthetic counterparts. While they may be one of the heavier options, they are one of the warmest and the boot IMG has rented for Rainier climbs for over a decade. You may find a boot with a better personal fit down the road, but nothing can compete with the range of feet this boots fits well. It is important to keep in mind that the cuffs on these tend to be low and this makes it easier for snow to enter the boot from above if the climber doesn\u00e2\u20ac\u2122t use a gaiter. For those who wear this boot even in warmer weather, investing in a pair of OR Low Gaiters<\/a> is well worth it. I would recommend going with this option if it’s your first time climbing Rainier, especially in cold weather when a double boot will be required anyway.\u00c2\u00a0 The most popular double plastic, and the boot IMG stocks in its rental fleet, is the Koflach Degre<\/a>.<\/p>\n<\/a><\/a>