{"id":2006,"date":"2010-11-01T09:16:09","date_gmt":"2010-11-01T17:16:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/?p=2006"},"modified":"2010-11-01T09:16:09","modified_gmt":"2010-11-01T17:16:09","slug":"ama-dablam-climbers-ready-for-their-first-rotation","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/2010\/11\/01\/ama-dablam\/ama-dablam-climbers-ready-for-their-first-rotation\/","title":{"rendered":"Ama Dablam Climbers Ready For Their First Rotation"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>November 1, 2010<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-2006 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/11\/Ama-Dablam-BC-11.1.10.jpg' rel=\"lightbox[2006]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/11\/Ama-Dablam-BC-11.1.10-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-2007\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-2007'>\n\t\t\t\tAma Dablam BC (photo: Justin Merle)\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/11\/Ama-Dablam-puja-11.1.10.jpg' rel=\"lightbox[2006]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/11\/Ama-Dablam-puja-11.1.10-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-2008\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-2008'>\n\t\t\t\tAma Dablam puja (photo: Justin Merle)\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><dl class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<dt class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/11\/Between-C1-and-C2-11.1.10.jpg' rel=\"lightbox[2006]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/11\/Between-C1-and-C2-11.1.10-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-2009\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/dt>\n\t\t\t\t<dd class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-2009'>\n\t\t\t\tBetween C1 and C2 (photo: Justin Merle)\n\t\t\t\t<\/dd><\/dl><br style=\"clear: both\" \/>\n\t\t<\/div>\n<\/p>\n<p>IMG  leader Mark Allen reports from the 4600m (15,088ft) Ama Dablam Base Camp, that  the team is doing well. \u00c2\u00a0Panuru and Ang Pasang returned to BC after fixing on  the upper mountain and it sounds like the route is in good shape.\u00c2\u00a0 Mark reports  that \u00e2\u20ac\u0153the Main Lama from Pangboche came up and gave\u00c2\u00a0our climbing team an extreme  blessing for our puja ceremony.\u00c2\u00a0 The climbing Sherpas erected several rows of  prayer flags that are intended to give us safe climbing. Then, it snowed over  night\u00c2\u00a0up to 4&#8243; in Base Camp, forcing us to take another rest  day!\u00e2\u20ac\u009d<\/p>\n<p>Many  of you have asked about the new \u00e2\u20ac\u0153cell phone service on Everest\u00e2\u20ac\u009d that has been in  the news lately.\u00c2\u00a0 We sent Mark out with a new data network card for the laptop  to experiment with, and a GSM cell phone as well.\u00c2\u00a0 So far it seems to be working  OK, but at Lobuche BC there was no cell service, so we needed the satellite  phone.\u00c2\u00a0 At Ama Dablam BC they have to walk about 200m out of camp to hit the  cell tower.\u00c2\u00a0 My impression is that the sat phones will still be needed by  expeditions to provide redundancy, as the cell service is still spotty in the  upper valley.<\/p>\n<p>The  weather is now looking good, and everyone is excited.\u00c2\u00a0 The current plan is to  move up to Camp 1 on November 2.\u00c2\u00a0 They will send the gear duffels up to 17700ft  on yaks, from where they will ferry the loads up to C1 (5750m, 18860ft).\u00c2\u00a0 The  next day the team will head up onto the ridge towards Camp 2 for more technical  training and acclimatization, then descend back to BC for a couple more rest  days, before heading back up for the summit bid.<\/p>\n<p>We\u00e2\u20ac\u2122ll  keep you posted!<\/p>\n<p>Eric Simonson<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>November 1, 2010 IMG leader Mark Allen reports from the 4600m (15,088ft) Ama Dablam Base Camp, that the team is doing well. \u00c2\u00a0Panuru and Ang Pasang returned to BC after fixing on the upper mountain and it sounds like the route is in good shape.\u00c2\u00a0 Mark reports that \u00e2\u20ac\u0153the Main Lama from Pangboche came up [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":5,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[28],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2006","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-ama-dablam"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2006","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/5"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2006"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2006\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2014,"href":"https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2006\/revisions\/2014"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2006"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2006"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/mountainguides.com\/wordpress\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2006"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}