Icefall dry run; Mera team moves up

April 21, 2024

Ang Jangbu and Phunuru report that the Everest climbers did their dry run today up into the lower part of the Khumbu Icefall, to test their systems and get some practice. Meanwhile, we had 6 Sherpas carry to Camp 2, and our Sherpa Camp 2 cooks moved up to Camp 1 to acclimatize (yes, sherpas need to acclimatize too!). All the sherpas and climbers will take a rest day tomorrow, with the plan to move up to Camp 1 the following day.

: Mera Peak from above Khare. Mera La out of sight to left and high camp in the rocks on skyline left of flagpole (Eric Simonson)

: Phunuru and climbers near the base of the Icefall looking back at Pumori (Phunuru)

: Changtse above the Lho La and the West Shoulder and Icefall by moonlight (Ang Jangbu)

Over on Mera Peak, Porter and team moved up from Khare to the high camp (about 19,000 ft) and will be shooting for the summit tomorrow. Best wishes to them!

Everest Climbers Preparing for Icefall; Mera Team Acclimatizing

April 19, 2024

Ang Jangbu and Phunuru report that the Everest climbers had a good day of training today on the glacier near Base Camp, practicing crossing ladders and making the transitions between ladders and steep icy slopes. These skills are critical for moving smooth and fast in the Khumbu Icefall! Meanwhile, we have six sherpas carrying to Camp 1 today, to start getting that campsite prepared. The climbers will take a rest day tomorrow, then will be planning their “dry run” the following day, going partway up the Icefall to get familiarized with the terrain and rope systems.

: Ladder practice (Phunuru)

: Icefall training on the Khumbu Glacier

: Headlights in the Icefall (Ang Jangbu)

Over in the Hinku valley, Porter McMichael and his team had a good acclimatization hike today from Khare up to the Mera La (about 17,750 ft). They will be taking at least one more rest day before heading to the High Camp. All’s well in Nepal!

: Mera Team on the way to Mera La (Porter McMichael)

: Mera climbers above Khare looking down Hinku Valley (Porter McMichael)

Everest Camps 1 and 2 Established; Mera team moves to Khare

April 18, 2024

: The routes in the Icefall change every year (Eric Simonson)

IMG Sherpas Sonam Tashi and Nima Sona did a round trip to Camp 2 yesterday, departing EBC at 2am and returning at about 11:30. They were successful in getting our campsites established, and had a chance to inspect the route work done by the Icefall Doctors. Our Sherpas report that the 2024 route is longer and windier than in the past few years, going closer to the West Shoulder below Camp 1. Over the coming weeks, the route will likely change some more, so we’ll see where it finally ends up. On deck for tomorrow, Ang Jangbu reports that we have 6 Sherpas carrying to Camp 1, and the IMG climbers will be doing ladder training on the glacier near Base Camp, in preparation for their upcoming acclimatization rotation.

Over in the Hinku Valley Porter and the team moved up to Khare today (5000m, 16400 ft), stopping off at the Sabai Lake along the way. Porter reports the team is doing well and enjoying the views of the surrounding mountains.

: Porter and team at Khare (Porter McMichael)

: Avalanches from the slopes of Kyashar above Khare (Porter McMichael)

: Sabai glacier avalanche path into Sabai Tsho glacial lake (Porter McMichael)

: From near Khare Mera Peak and view down the Hinku valley towards Thagnak

Khumbu Icefall opens to Camp 2; Mera climbers reach Thagnak

April 17th, 2024

: Climbers in the Icefall at 3am by moonlight (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

: Breach in moraine impounding Saba Tsho glacial lake with Kusum Kanguru behind.

: On the trail to Tagnak (Eric Simonson)

Good news from Everest Base Camp. Ang Jangbu and Phunuru report that the IMG team is doing well and that the Icefall Doctors have managed to push the route past the bottom of Nuptse. Apparently it is very icy this year in the Icefall (go figure) and there are several big crevasses and ice walls in the lower part of the Western Cwm which made it more difficult than normal to get to Camp 1 and then to get around more obstacles near Nuptse. Above that it is a straight shot up to Camp 2. We have IMG sherpas Sonam Tashi and Nima Sona heading up tomorrow morning to stake out our campsites at Camp 1 and Camp 2.

Over in the Hinku Valley, IMG leader Porter McMichael reports the team had a nice hike today up to Thagnak (about 14,300 ft), near the head of the Hinku Valley. Tomorrow they will take an acclimatization hike up to see Sabai Tsho, the glacial lake that was hit by an avalanche in 1998 which caused the moraine to break and a huge flood to sweep the Hinku Valley. Alls’s well in Nepal!

Lobuche Summit Photos

April 16th, 2024

: View up the fixed ropes on Lobuche (Harry Hamlin)

: The 2024 IMG climbers on top of Lobuche Peak (Phunuru Sherpa)

: Happy climbers on Lobuche Summit (Phunuru)

Phunuru and the climbers made it back to Everest Base Camp and were able to send out some nice shots of their climb of Lobuche Peak yesterday. It looks like it was a great day to be in the mountains. Well done team!!

Lobuche Peak Summits!

April 15, 2024

Phunuru reports the weather was good and the Lobuche and Everest climbers had a nice trip up Lobuche Peak! After a night at the high camp (about 18,300 ft) they were up at 3am and climbing by 4am. The route to the summit is initially rocky, before transitioning to steep snow and a spectacular ascent on fixed ropes to the summit ridge, from where the views up and down the valley are really fantastic. Now the climbers are back at Lobuche Base Camp, enjoying their success and the thick air. Tomorrow the Lobuche climbers head down valley, and the Everest climbers will move back up to Everest BC. Well done team!

: On the route to summit of Lobuche Peak (Harry Hamlin)

: Lobuche Peak from Everest Base Camp (Eric Simonson)

: Lobuche Peak from Pheriche (Ang Jangbu)

: View of Everest from Lobuche Peak (Eric Simonson)

Puja Day at Base Camp; Mera team hits the trail

April 12, 2024

: IMG Everest climbers and sherpas at the EBC puja (Phunuru)

: IMG 2024 Everest team (Phunuru)

Phunuru reports from Base Camp that the Everest team had a nice puja yesterday. The lama from Pangboche came up to officiate, and the weather was favorable. This ceremony is important to the Sherpas for good luck on the mountain, and for the foreign climbers it’s a fun way to kick off the climbing season. Next up for the team is some training on the Khumbu Glacier, followed by an acclimatization climb of Lobuche Peak.

: Rhododendrons on the trail to Chautanga (Ang Jangbu)

: Three routes to Mera Peak on Google Earth

Down in Lukla, IMG guide Porter McMichael and his team of Mera/Ama Dablam/and Everest/Lhotse climbers had a nice acclimatization hike up to Chautanga village (11,600 ft) which is on the way to the Zwatra La pass that goes to Hinku Valley. This is a great hike, departing busy Lukla and within just a few minutes finding a whole different landscape with no trekkers, lots of rhododendrons in bloom and small farms. Tomorrow the team will save themselves the stiff hike up and over Zwatra La, and will instead fly by helicopter direct to Khote in Hinku Valley.

Team 2 reaches Everest BC

April 10, 2023

: IMG Team 2 getting close to Everest BC (Phunuru)

: Team 2 at Everest BC in the insulated dining tent (Phunuru)

Phunuru reports that Team 2 are doing well at Everest Base Camp. The weather has been excellent and they are excited to finally get to the end of the trail! Tomorrow they are looking forward to the puja ceremony, marking the beginning of the climbing. Higher up, the Icefall doctors have made good progress, and the route to Camp 1 will hopefully be open soon. All’s well at EBC!

Team 2 arrives at EBC; Mera/Ama climbers Ready to Go

April 9, 2024 –

Phunuru Sherpa reports that yesterday Team 2 had a good acclimatization hike up to the Lobuche High Camp, before descending to Lobuche BC for another night. Everyone is doing well and feeling strong. Today, Ang Jangbu and the Team 1 trekkers departed Base Camp, while Team 2 and the climbers moved up to Everest BC. Next up for the climbers is a day of training on the Khumbu Glacier, double checking their gear and techniques in preparation for their warm-up ascent of Lobuche Peak. Higher up the Icefall Doctors have made progress on getting to Camp 1, but still have more work to do on the route.

: Looking down the Khumbu Glacier from EBC (Ang Jangbu)

: Team 2 at Lobuche Base Camp (Phunuru)

: Porter McMichael at the briefing for the climbing permit (Pasang Sherpa)

Back in Kathmandu IMG guide Porter McMichael did the Dept of Tourism (ministry) briefing for the permits. Porter and our Mera/Ama Dablam team will be departing tomorrow for Lukla. All’s well in Nepal!

Team 1 arrives Everest BC

April 7, 2024

IMG Everest Base Camp (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Lobuche Base Camp (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

IMG Team 1 on the way to Everest BC from Lobuche Base Camp (Ang Jangbu Sherpa)

Ang Jangbu reports that Team 1 departed Lobuche Base Camp (about 15,500 ft) and had a nice hike today up to Everest Base Camp (about 17,500 ft), arriving before 2pm. They were greeted by cooks Kaji and Nima and the BC team, who have been working hard to get the camp all buffed for their arrival! Three days behind, Phunuru and Team 2 moved from Pheriche up to Lobuche Base Camp and are also doing well, arriving in good time.

The report from higher up on the mountain is that the Khumbu Icefall Doctors have been working hard on the Icefall route, but have run into some difficulties above the Football Field, requiring some route modifications. They have not yet reached Camp 1 and will need some additional time before the route gets opened.