May 30, 2024
Looking down the fixed ropes towards 14 Camp (Eric Simonson)
Although we just had our first rounds of Denali summits this year, we’re not out of the woods yet!
Denali Teams 4 & 5 are making their way up the mountain and are doing well. Team 4 reached 14K camp yesterday and Team 5 is looking to move to 14K in the next couple of days.
Team 6 is making their final preparations and will be meeting in Anchorage in the coming few days!
May 28, 2024
Great news from Mt Rainier as IMG guide Annaebelle Kays and her team tagged the summit yesterday morning. The team reported clear skies, fresh snow, and moderate winds as they stood atop Mt Rainier. IMG guides have been hard at work this season, battling stormy weather and tough conditions angling to put a climbable route up Mt Rainier, but their efforts paid off.
IMG climbers stand on top of Mt Rainier (Annabelle Kays)
Congrats to the team!
May 27, 2024 –
Good news from IMGD teams on Denali yesterday evening: Team 2, lead by Riley Gilson, and Team 3, lead by Justin Sackett, both reported clear skies and calm winds from the summit of Denali. The teams reached the top around 530PM and then safely descended to 17 Camp to rest and spend the night. This morning, the teams will begin their descent to base camp and hope to return to Talkeetna in the coming days.
The view from the Fixed Lines, between 17 Camp and 14 Camp. Camp 14 can be seen below. Mt Hunter looms in the background. (Peter Dale)
Meanwhile, elsewhere on the mountain, Team 4, lead by Forrest Baldwin, is resting at 11 Camp and hoping to carry gear in the coming days. Team 5, lead by Rowan Stewart, flew on to the Kahiltna yesterday and climbed to 7800′. They plan to carry gear to 9800′ today and move to 11 Camp in the coming days.
May 26, 2024
Views in every direction! (John Hodder)
Machu Picchu Team in 2011
Our summer Peru treks are just around the corner and we have only two spots left on both out Machu Picchu and Cordillera Huayhuash treks. Machu Picchu permits are going fast, so now’s the time to sign up! If you’re looking for an attainable summer adventure in the mountains, Peru is a great option!
Teams can expect to be supported by the best local staff and be guided by highly-trained guides on the treks!
Cordillera Huayhuash Dates: Aug 4-18, 2024
Machu Picchu Dates: August 20-28, 2024
Looking forward to trekking in Peru this summer!
May 23, 2024
Fortified snow walls surround tent at 14000′ camp, photo by Peter Spagnoli.
Team 4, led by Forrest Baldwin, got that call today from Talkeetna Air Taxi…. it’s a go! Arriving on the lower Kahiltna glacier at 7200′ they wasted no time unloading their plane and preparing to move uphill. For some climbers, this is the first experience wearing large packs and pulling heavy sleds at the same time. By the time they get to their first camp at the base of Ski Hill, they are veteran sled pullers, and welcome putting them to bed at night.
Teams 2 and 3, lead by Gilson and Sackett are checking in again today from 14K camp, where climbers are playing the waiting game. Waiting for weather to improve, waiting for breakfast, waiting for dinner, and waiting to finally move up the fixed rope. At the top awaits the ridge of the west buttress, leading you to the next camp at 17,000′.
We wish all of our teams “Good Luck”!
May 21, 2024
A climber at the ‘Edge of the World’ just outside 14K Camp overlooking the Kahiltna Glacier and Mt. Foraker (Sultana). (Audrey Simonson)
Teams 2 and 3 are checking in again today from 14K camp, where climbers are enjoying breathtaking views while acclimatizing. Trading in their snowshoes for crampons, they enjoyed a walk to the “End of the World!” The atmosphere is vibrant and social as climbers from around the world share their experiences and prepare for the final push to the summit. Camp is situated at the base of the fixed lines leading up to the headwall, a steep section of the climb that leads to the 16,000-foot ridge and eventually the high camp at 17,200 feet. This camp is a memorable part of the Denali climbing experience, offering both challenges and camaraderie as climbers prepare for the final stages of their ascent.
Team 4, led by Forrest Baldwin, is checking in today with the Talkeetna Ranger Station. The team will be picking up permits, attending the mandatory climbing orientation, and managing last-minute details before their flight onto the Kahiltna glacier runway. Waiting for that call from Talkeetna Air Taxi…. it’s a go!
May 18, 2024
Climbing on the West Buttress with Foraker behind (Eric Simonson)
Looking up towards the West Buttress from 14 Camp (Eric Simonson)
All is going well on Denali so far… which is all we can really ask for as guides! With conditions being okay compared to last year, our teams all have good forward momentum and are chugging their way towards the top.
Team 1 led by Peter Dale is leading the charge of IMG teams up the Kahiltna. Team 1 has been at 14K Camp for a couple of days resting, and now are making their first acclimatization climb to cache at the top of the fixed lines at 16,200′ just below Washburn’s Thumb. This team is doing well!
Team 2 led by Riley Gilson is making their move to 14K Camp today from 11K. The team will be doing a back-carry and resting in the coming days.
Team 3 led by Justin Sackett is still poised at 11K Camp and are making their first rotation up to 13,5 K today to cache gear before coming back down to 11K to sleep. Justin’s next notable milestone will be their move to 14K Camp.
Team 4 is putting the finishing touches on their gear here at IMG HQ and will be departing for the airport to meet in Anchorage on Monday with Team 5 departing a couple days later.
May 18, 2024
Makalu and Lhotse from the South Summit on Everest (Porter McMichael)
IMG’s Porter McMichael has now reached Kathmandu, and sent a gorgeous dawn photo from his climb a few days ago. The climbers have now all reached Kathmandu, the final loads are all off the mountain and have been packed up, and the yaks are coming to Base Camp today to carry the gear down to our storeroom. All that remains to do is the final end-of-climb briefing at the Department of Tourism. Congrats to our summit climbers and thanks to the trekkers, guides, sherpas and staff that helped make the 2024 expedition possible. It’s a wrap!
May 17th, 2024
Tents low down on the glacier at ski hill camp (Tomah Whitney)
Team 1 led by Peter Dale, has arrived at 14,000′ after a heavy pack and sled day, the work begins after pulling into camp! Setting up the tents, building snow walls, group kitchen, melting snow, and finally hot drinks, and dinner. Fun fact about 14,000′ is the “backcountry restroom has the best view in the house”!
Team 2 led by Riley Gilson has returned to camp after caching their carry at 13,500′. Rest days are used for sleeping, self-care, hydrating, managing your feet, catching up on reading, and maybe even some tunes.
Team 3 led by Justin Sackett and crew will be sharing camp tonight with Team 2 after their move to 11,000. Another long day after their back carry to retrieve their cache from Kahiltna Pass. More resting and caching is what is store for this team in the next few days.
Look for updates on Team 4 led by Forrest Baldwin, as he will be meeting up with his group in Anchorage on Monday.
May 16th, 2024
Another productive day on Denali! Team 1 lead by Peter Dale is moving up to 14,000′, where they will set up camp, and settle in for rest and recovery. Camp at 14000′ is filled with many teams from all over globe, and is staffed by the Denali National Park Rangers at their emergency medical facilities.
Team 2 lead by Riley Gilson will be traveling again today where they will encounter motorcycle hill, and windy corner to cache food and supplies at 13,500″. “Motorcycle hill” named because of resemblance to the steep hills in motocross, is one of the first steep hills they will encounter.
Team 3 lead by Justin Sackett is moving to camp at 11000′, with lots of daylight for travel and camp chores as sunset isn’t until 11:00 pm. If above the haze, they will have views straight down the Kahiltna glacier, into the tundra and even the sound. Again rest and recovery and good food so important!
Good luck to our teams! Who’s team are you following?
