October 11, 2018

Eric Simonson checked in from Pethang after a great day of trekking. From Joksum (or Shalung), the ridge over the valley can be reached in half hour. From here there are clear views right up the Khangsung valley. The views of Everest, Lhotse, Lhotse Shar, Phetangtse, Chomolonzo and Makalu and myriad other peaks are great.

Turning West towards Langma La (Eric Simonson)

From this ridge, the trail descends rather steeply down into the Kama River coming down from the Langma La pass. After wading across the river (the bridge has been swept away by the monsoon floods), the trail enters the Khangsung Valley. A wide valley drained by the Khangsung stream that the receding glacier has left behind with wide undulating hillocks now covered by a thick growth of willow, rhododendron, juniper and other shrubs.

Camp is made at the meadow called Pethang (14,200 ft) about an hour’s walk (gently uphill) from the stream crossing.

Greg Vernovage

October 9, 2018

We received some photos overnight from Eric and the team in Tibet. Communication will be hit and miss from here on out during the trek. They may get a signal where we get comms during the peaks of the trekking.

The Team was up early loading the truck to Yueba Village. At Yueba Village, the team met with the Tibetan locals, who will be assisting with moving gear. Tibetan time is a loose term. The Dzo’s arrived a bit later than expected but it all got worked out. In the mountains, we need patience and flexibility; it all worked out! The Dzo is a pack animal used by locals and are good for lower elevations.

Heading due West up the Kharta Chu River (Eric Simonson)

The team hit the trail and are making camp just before Shao La (Pass) at 14,800 feet. Tomorrow is a big day of trekking. They plan is to cross Shao La (16,000’) and drop back down to Joksum in the Rhododendron forest. The weather is looking good and we are excited to see what is over the next pass!

Greg Vernovage

October 8, 2018

Eric and Anthony at Pang La (Tsering)

IMG Partner, Eric Simonson checked in overnight from Kharta. In Kharta, the team met with longtime IMG Sherpa Guides, Lopsang Sherpa and first class cook Jor Bahador. From here, the team will be doing some trekking!

Eric said the yaks should be arriving in the morning, and they will set out for the start of the trek. Once the team hits the trail, they will head for Shao Tso lake at 14,000 feet.

Pang La (Tsering)

Everest from pang La (Tsering)

This team is enjoying some fantastic weather!

Greg Vernovage

October 7, 2018

Today we traveled the 240km from Shigatse to Shegar, along the Friendship Highway that goes all the way to the Nepal border. Before leaving Shigatse, though, we took a tour of the Tashilumpo Monastary, home of the Panchen Lama, who is sometimes referred to as number two to the Dalai Lama. Tashilumpo was actually the home of the first four Dalai Lamas, until the fifth one moved the seat of government to Lhasa and started building the Potala Palace in 1645. Tashilumpo is one of the nicest of the big Tibetan monasteries, and the blue sky and early morning sun made everything come alive visually for us.

Inside the Tashilumpo Montasary in Shigatse (Eric Simonson)

We then headed west, eventually climbing over the Tsuo La pass (4500m) before dropping down into the town of Lhatse, where we stopped for lunch. After that, we were climbing back up again to the summit of the Gyatso La pass (5267m or 17,275 ft) before we dropped again down to the Shegar valley at about 4000m. Along the way we had our first views of Mt. Everest which always sends a shiver up my spine.

Shegar is another of the very old Tibetan towns that has figured prominently in the Tibetan wars with Nepal. The Tibetans under the rule of the Quig Dynasty (the last of the Chinese imperial dynasties) built a series of forts (known as Dzongs) in the various towns near to Nepal. Gyantse and Shigatse also have Dzongs, but the one in Shegar is one of the coolest. It was built up on top of a mountain, with a fortified wall climbing to the summit. Despite the fortifications, it was not enough to stop the Nepalese Gurkha armies, which attacked Tibet and fought several campaigns 1788-92, pushing as far as Shigatse. A second war between Tibet and Nepal followed in 1855-56 where again the Dzongs figured prominently in the battles. Suffice to say, the border lands between Nepal and Tibet have not been a peaceful place!

This afternoon we hiked up above the old town of Shegar to get a nice view and see the famous Shegar Dzong up close. Wow, Shegar sure has changed from the sleepy little village I remembered to the bustling Chinese city it is now.

Shegar viewed from above the town (Eric Simonson)

Tomorrow we head over the famous Pang La Pass (with its world class view of the Himalaya) before dropping down and turning east to Kharta. We are getting close now to the beginning of our trek!

Eric Simonson

October 6, 2018

When you go trekking or climbing in the Himalayas, you are traveling in areas where people have roamed for centuries. Central Tibet is no exception, and the southern route from Lhasa to Shigatse which we followed yesterday has huge historical significance. Back in the 19th and early 20th centuries, the British in India were very wary of the expansion of the Russian empire into Central Asia, including Tibet. Those two counties played what became known as the “Great Game” for many years, as each attempted to thwart the other’s plans.

For the British, reaching Lhasa was important, and they sent Francis Younghusband with an army to open the route in 1904. He traveled north from Sikkim to Gyantse, and then east towards Lhasa. The Tibetans tried to stop him at the Karo La, the 5010m high pass along the way. The battle (or massacre) that ensued was a sad chapter in Tibetan history. Younghusband went on to become one of the champions of the early British Everest expeditions and head of the Royal Geographic Society. If you are interested in this type of stuff, you have some great reading to look forward to.

Yesterday we followed the same route, in the opposite direction. First we climbed up over the Khamba La pass (4794m), then followed the shore of the immense Yamdrok Lake, then crossed Karo La (5010m) before dropping down into the Gyantse valley where the locals were hard at work harvesting barley. Along the way we had great views of the Nogin Kangtsang range with its numerous 6-7000 meter peaks. From there we continued west to Shigatse, the second largest city in Tibet. Today we will visit the Tashilumpo Monastary before continuing to Shegar, another famous old town.

Eric Simonson